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Old Apr 1, 2006, 7:38 AM   #31
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Why does it seem strange ? The S2 I paid around $800.00= 699.99 Plus 15% tax. The Panny was $200.00 more no ?
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Old Apr 1, 2006, 7:43 AM   #32
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Those were nice pictures, thanks for sharing.
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Old Apr 3, 2006, 11:02 AM   #33
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kenmck15 wrote:
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ELDDJOC wrote:
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Did you half depress the button to get a lock ?

this is what i am thinking. half press and waiting for the green sqaure.
This is where I'm having problems- I'd say about 50% of the time my camera won't lock- I get a yellow square instead of a green square. Is this normal?

I also have noises coming from my camera when I zoom slowly in or out- it'sa hard to describe sound- not plastic on plastic or a smooth sound like when the camera is frist turned on- it soundskinda bleepy bloopy and changes pitch up and downand it's noticeable only because I have the camera up to my face. Do other people hear these sounds?
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Old Apr 3, 2006, 11:19 AM   #34
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The AF locking problem is "normal" (how in hell can a "problem"beconsidered normal??? Only if you have an S2!!!). The S2 has a real hard time focusing on anything that does not have high contrast edges(and it's even worsein macro mode). I think the AF issue results in the picture softness the camera produces (perhaps they are not related, but I'm not sure).

As for the lensnoise while zooming, keep in mind that a certain amount of noise is normal in any camera, specially the ones with a12x optical zoom lens. However, the S2 zoomis fairly quite compared to others (one of the reasons why Canon enabled zoomingin movie mode on the S2). If I were you, I'dgo to a local camera shop and try a display model to see how much noise it makes. If the noise you hear is not the same as with your camera, I'd get a replacement camera while it's still under the warranty (or better yet, send it back and get a Sony H1 if the focusing "feature" is bothering you).
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Old Apr 3, 2006, 12:48 PM   #35
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I'll stop by Best Buy and check out a display model- great idea!

As for the H1- I thought about it- but I like having the "my colors" feature too much! I realize it's possible to do the same thing in PP, but it's neat to have it in camera as well

Well that sucks with the auto-focus... drat. Are there any settings that will help the AF focus better? Also, is there any way to save your custom setting under C mode? I hate how I have to go and turn on vivid every single time
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Old Apr 3, 2006, 1:21 PM   #36
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The "my colors" feature is neat but, as you said, it can be done in PS. I personally take other features into consideration before making a decision on a particular camera. The problem with AF is a difficult one to solve because it's the way the camera operates internally to determine when focus has been achieved. There are two AF settings (continuous and single). I set mycamera to "single" and always pre-focus (press shutter half way down to obtain and lock focus).

As forsaving custom settings, once you select color effect "VIVID", it stays like that until you change it to something else. I leave my S2always set to VIVID. I also think you can set the "shortcut" button to the color effect so all you need to do to switch to VIVID ispushthis button.
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Old Apr 3, 2006, 3:53 PM   #37
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If the inside of the white/yellow/green box is featureless or lacks a sharp line (eg a flat wall), the camera won't indicate focus even if it's dark enough for the autofocus beam to be enabled. This is easily confirmed by pre-focusing on any flat wall with a strong vertical just outside the box, and then trying again with the line just inside the box. Seems to me that that the focus is in the ballpark, but the camera doesn't have any info to fine tune and confirm it.

So you must ensure there are some sharp features or textures in the box when you pre-focus.

If I don't hold the camera still enough, the focus can also have problems.

My camera also makes some very faint electronic-sounding noises when it zooms slowly - very faint, but if you put your ear to the camera and slowly zoom right in and right out, it sounds like a faint electronic babble. Someone in another forum questioned the same noise - so I presume this is normal. Probably the ultrasonic-zoom leaking into the sonic.

captal wrote
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This is where I'm having problems- I'd say about 50% of the time my camera won't lock- I get a yellow square instead of a green square. Is this normal?

I also have noises coming from my camera when I zoom slowly in or out- it'sa hard to describe sound- not plastic on plastic or a smooth sound like when the camera is frist turned on- it soundskinda bleepy bloopy and changes pitch up and downand it's noticeable only because I have the camera up to my face. Do other people hear these sounds?
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Old Apr 3, 2006, 4:16 PM   #38
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Once in macro mode, if you first select the zoom, and then don't change it, focusing becomes easier to achieve. When you zoom the minimum and maximum focus distances for the lens varies and everything just becomes too hard.

I'm not sure if it applies to normal macro, but when using an add on macro filter it is actually easier to hold down the pre-focus and then move the camera slightly backward or forward to bring the right parts of the subject into the acceptable depth of field.

I think softness is more the sensor+lens and the amount of post-processing Canon chooses to do. The S2 seems to have less noise than some of its competition - sharpening brings out noise - so maybe Canon have turned down the sharpening. Also the S2 has less dynamic range than something like the Pro1 - I think Canon have turned down the contrast to prevent over blown highlights. Changing the contrast/gamma/brightness is one of the most common post-processing steps I use - but I often also change the +/- EV to try and further prevent overblown highlights, so perhaps that's just me shooting myself in the foot.

Note that people wanting to use the S2 more like a DSLR, turn down sharpening and constrast even further - it's expected that most/every DSLR image will need post-processing (point-and-shoot cameras tend to produce unreal/enhanced/Vivid images). These people have been responsible for some of the S2 FAQ's and tip sheets, so in some cases they're going in the opposite direction to what you want.

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..The S2 has a real hard time focusing on anything that does not have high contrast edges (and it's even worsein macro mode). I think the AF issue results in the picture softness the camera produces (perhaps they are not related, but I'm not sure)..
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Old Apr 3, 2006, 6:37 PM   #39
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Hi mchnz, I don't quite understand what you mean by "select the zoom and thendon't change it". In any case,the bottom line is that it should not be that hard to get a camera such as the S2to focus on a subject, unless we are talking severe lack of light (and even then, the AF assist lightshould do the trick). When you take a macro photo and you can't get the camera to lock the focus, it's extremelyfrustrating (at least to me). I agree with you that the picture softness is a result of the amount of internal PP. The thing is, the combination of the two (bad AF + picture softness) is deadly. Now, here is something very interesting, which I need to experiment further. Iattached thelens adapterwith a LINEAR polarizer filter (I foundmany filters while digging through my old SLR equipment and thought perhaps I could use them. Since my old SLRs had only manual focus, I did not have the need for a CP filter). Then Iwent outside in my backyardand started taking close-up photos of flowerswith the camera in macro mode (not super macro)to see what kind of results I would get by using a linear polarizer. I immediately noticed that the camera was no longer hunting for focus. Strange, isn't it???Now, we all know what polarizer filters are supposed to do. The question is, is it possible that the problem with the S2 AF iscaused by the camera'sdeficiencyin dealing with light?Therefore,once the lighthas beenfiltered before going into the camera, all of a sudden the camera candiscern edges and contrast areas much better, thus obtaining focus a lot quicker? As I said, I need to experiment a bit more beforedrawing anyconclusions but ifthat turns out to be the case, at least we knowhow to fixthe poor AF issue. Simply add a polarizer filter to the camera!
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Old Apr 3, 2006, 7:28 PM   #40
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I've only limited experience with normal macro mode, but I found if I tried to change the zoom while in normal macro mode, I would constantly be breaking the minimum and maximum ranges for the lens - this is because the min/max change when you change the amount of zoom. The Limited available zoom in normal macro is also a bit of a problem - it's a soft limit, only indicated in the EVF/LCD by a yellow line on the scale - so it's pretty easy to overshoot the indicated range and be in a impossible to focus region.

So my suggestion would be to first select the amount of zoom you want to use. Having decided on the amount of zoom, the min/max range can be kept constant. Then move the camera toward or away from the subject to find a distance within the min/max at which the Camera is prepared to focus. Finally engage the pre-focus and recompose the image.

Yeah this is very frustrating/fiddly, but fortunately super-zoom and just plain zoom are normally much more useful to me than normal-macro.

Interesting about the polarizer - are you sure you weren't just choosing to stand more in the middle of the min/max range?

Tullio wrote:
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Hi mchnz, I don't quite understand what you mean by "select the zoom and thendon't change it". In any case,the bottom line is that it should not be that hard to get a camera such as the S2to focus on a subject, unless we are talking severe lack of light (and even then, the AF assist lightshould do the trick). When you take a macro photo and you can't get the camera to lock the focus, it's extremelyfrustrating (at least to me).
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