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Old Aug 19, 2005, 10:53 AM   #1
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I have read and reread manual and just am not getting it, obviousy!

style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #000000"Bench shot (no action) 270mm, P mode, 1/6sec-5.6 ISO 800 BLURRY

style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #000000"Running sideways 190mm, sports mode, 1/30-4.8 ISO 800 BLURRY

style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #000000"Running head on 135mm, sports mode, 1/80 -4.5 ISO 800 BLURRY

Throw in, 300mm, sports mode, 1/10-5.6 ISO 800 BLURRY

Why did these shutter speeds register so slow? What didn't I do correctly? I can't get FP (high-speed sync) to show on light. So confused and needing to get this figured out before next game. I did use a monopod. Thanks:?jgp
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Old Aug 21, 2005, 8:05 AM   #2
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The shutter speeds are slow because there just ain't enough light. Also, the light from the flash will have little impact beyond a certain distance - I see that you used focal lengths that are all beyond the zoom capability of the flash, which only zooms in the 14-105mm range. If you want the flash light to have a greater reach, there are flash extenders available exactly for that purpose - they narrow the angle of projection of the flash's light.Forget about sports mode or whatever other preset scene mode, put your camera on manual mode and experiment with a fixed shutter speed of 1/60s and f/5.6 (I assume that you're using a 70-300 f/4-5.6 lens, and it's the widest aperture that you can use given the focal lengths). Bump the ISO to 1600 if possible, and don't worry about noise. Would you rather have a little noise or no image at all? These venues seem poorly lit up, so there's not much you can do.As for FP mode, it's only availble when your camera supports it. In FP mode the SB800 will fire beyond the sync speed of the camera by firing many times (imperseptible) within the exposure time (say 1/2000s). This however will greatly reduce the power output and reach of the flash light. FP mode also allows the use of larger apertures since you will compensate with a faster shutter speed - you can achieve greter separation between subject and background (shallow depth of field). Without FP mode you are forced to go with a very small aperture, greater depth of field, to be able to get both main subject and sky exposed correctly.Remember that in a flash shot your are actually making two exposures in one: you expose for the main subject that is within the flash's reach, and also for the background. If all this seems like a really complicated foreign language to you, I'd suggest picking up a photography book or taking a basic photography course to get a better grip of the basics of photography. Good luck!
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Old Aug 26, 2005, 5:53 PM   #3
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Thanks. I have since talked to the camera store and really don't know about his advice of putting it back in P mode. I was going to try M at 1/125 - 5.6 iso800. Do you think that might give me something? I took some 1600 the other night and will try again, but don't usually have to put up with that much noise so it's hard to do that. jgp
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