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Old Jul 27, 2004, 8:41 AM   #1
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I have recently purchased the vivitar flash for my casio exilim pro. I have set the correct settings at number 3, but when I take a picture sometimes, it actually comes out darker than with my normal camera flash. This can be frustrating at times when I get only one chance to get the picture, and it turns out extremely dark. Does anyone know the cause of this problem?
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Old Jul 27, 2004, 12:12 PM   #2
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SPECS OF DF120 I got :

Compatible with most Digital Cameras that have a built-in flash. Embedded Intelligent Circuitry "learns" the Characteristic Flash Profile.
Ultra Compact
Acts as a slave to most Digital & film Cameras that have a built-in flash.
Features include Flash test button & Flash ready indicator
Uses 2 AAA Alkaline Batteries
Includes Strobe Holder, Multi-Angle Stand, Strobe & Camera Bracket

Type Slave Flash with holder and Brackets
Guide Number 40 (ISO 100/ft)
Auto Settings Auto
Synchronizes with up to 2 pre-flashes
Angle of Coverage Covers 35mm lens (equivalent on 35mm Cameras)
Recycle Time appx 5 sec
Power Source 2 AAA alkaline batteries
Dimensions (W x H x D) 2.17" x 1.79" x 1.02" / 55 x 45.5 x 26mm
Weight 1.6 oz / 46 g
Notes & Special Features appx 60- 80 flashes w/batteries?Color temperature 5600k


The reason that makes a picture dark is the flash firing at the wrong moment.

- Did you follows the "learning" instruction of the flash?
- Did you change the flash mode of the camera once the "learning" sequence done on the slave flash?
- This flash won't work when the camera pre-flash more than twice (according to the specs above) , this is the case of red eye reduction mode on some cameras.

BTW, you don't need absolutely a "optical slave flash" , your camera has a PC sync terminal, my first choice would be an external flash connected to that terminal, much more reliable.

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Old Jul 27, 2004, 4:46 PM   #3
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From reading that other topic, I now understand about how the picture can turn out darker. What are the exact steps for the learning mode? This is how I've done about it in the past. I put in the aa batteries and set it on 1, take a picture. Then I set it on 2 and take another picture and finally on 3 with another picture. The correct one is 3, so I just leave it there and continue to take the pictures until the battery has died.

style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #000000"How much are PC sync terminal flashes? I think I have already wasted my money on the Vivitar DF120
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Old Jul 27, 2004, 6:07 PM   #4
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If you did the learning as directed in the manual, it should do the job. I can't comment further since I don't have that flash.
One thing : may be the learned information is gone (reseted) each time you turn the flash power off ??
In this thread: http://www.stevesforums.com/forums/v...mp;forum_id=53
Tomac wrote "Vivitar has to be reprogrammed each time for your camera's flash characteristics"
That's about the Vivitar DF-200, may be the DF-120 works the same way , so you have to remake it "learn" each time you turn it on .

About the second question:
Any flash can be connected via PC sync terminal (with a reserve about safetrigger voltage , very important).

The reason why people need slave flashes is that many digital camera don't have a PC sync terminal like yours.

My quick recommendation , if you allow , is that you return that slave flash, and get something like the Sunpak 383 as recommended here: http://www.stevesforums.com/forums/v...mp;forum_id=53

Or the Vivitar 285HV


and a bracket like this:

then last thing, a hotshoe to sync cord adapter:

Then you are set like a pro. I will cost you more or less 100 bucks (?) but I think that your camera merit that serious flash setup

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