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Old Jun 8, 2003, 12:25 AM   #11
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Hi One_Eye_Ed again,
I wonder about your nick … no ..?
You are welcome , I discovered this forum shortly before I get my second digicam. The forum went through several “generations” , if I remember right , this one is the third generation. But people here are still the same, very helpful and nice.

Quote:
Ok you want me to setup the FLASH parameter mode of " EXTERNAL FLASH " correct..? Then simply keep shooting away?? Noting the (if any movements) of the ohmmeter " jumping " reading the center contact and ground clips.
That's pretty easy...Now ; if there's movement I will " try " to record the " specs " at where the needle moves to..but doesn't sound like it will move hardly at all.
If there's in fact movement ; I believe that will be to the " good " side of the testing..and then what does that mean next? (If there's a next) ..usually there's always...a next...
You don’t need to record any value, anyway, it’s meaningless because the needle don’t have enough time to indicate the contact resistance value. Just the evidence of the needle movement confirms you the working condition of the hotshoe contacts.
If there is absolutely no movement , in any scale setting ( x1, x10 etc..) , even after swapping the leads (to change polarity) , then the hotshoe circuitry is out.
Oh, you may try to impose a slow speed , there is a chance that the contact close as long as the shutter remains open (this is the case on my camera) you than have more chance to detect the closing contacts.


Quote:
The Spectrum 350MD Flash unit...I couldn't find anything online either. Here's the results of the repeated tests.
1) Voltage found ONLY : + 3.19 VDC (HUGE Difference)!
2) Flash did fire ; by shorting the contact to ground clip..
This flash is safe for digital camera for sure.

Quote:
Then there's the now ANALOG tests to be done....this sounds like a momentary switch deal...( close ) fires flash..opens ...close fires flash....
Exactly . In fact, in older film camera , and also in cheap camera, it’s a mechanical switch that momentary close when the curtain is open ( or both curtains are open if it’s the case)
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Old Jun 8, 2003, 4:59 PM   #12
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Default Yes One Eye DEAD (Almost) FLash Question again

KCan : Hi yes the name implies what it reads ; One_Eye_Ed...My name is Ed (My right eye is " blind ( enough " where only can see light & dark)...not to sound medical....obstruction of retina area...

So...Hence my name...(Thought it might get attention).haha.. ok..the flash...I forgot to ask the " FLASH MUST be setup to the EXTERNAL MENU " setting correct???

These are not then mechanical ( like ignition points or a relay contacts) then NOT Physical...contacts) Are triggered through..***** . diodes or the like.,??)

Maybe then I guess.... this is never going to work through the shot then...I do not yet have access ( still) to having an ANALOG meter. I don't know when I will...guess until then I won't know...

Seems so odd though to me that the internal flash then ( MUST be on a totally different circuit ) works and then the external doesn't BUT Guess that's why the selection is being offered in the FLASH MENU settings..

Take care KCan...Hopefully I'll also get an answer to the batteries question...I wrote about it in the batteries forum never any answer............MAYBE I wrote it into the wrong area.???

Thanks for your time Ed~
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Old Jun 8, 2003, 8:58 PM   #13
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Quote:
the " FLASH MUST be setup to the EXTERNAL MENU " setting correct???
Not knowing the camera, but I guess that’s the right setting
But one question:
You mean the flash menu set to "External" right?
(There are no "external menu" item I guess.)

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These are not then mechanical ( like ignition points or a relay contacts) then NOT Physical...contacts) Are triggered through..***** . diodes or the like.,??)
Those mechanical contacts kind are like ignition points (My first car here in Canada still had points ) Nowadays camera, they use SCR or some other type of semiconductor. That’s the reason why I mentioned to swap the teat lead to be sure.
A relay is out of question, the electromechanical response time is just too long , not to mention that a relay cost much more than an equivalent chip ( ie an opto isolator for instance)

Quote:
Maybe then I guess.... this is never going to work through the shot then...I do not yet have access ( still) to having an ANALOG meter. I don't know when I will...guess until then I won't know...
At this time, I guess there is a good chance that the hotshoe circuitry is faulty . Knowing your Spectrum flash is OK and have a safe voltage, why don’t you try it with the connections swapped ? you can use 2 “jumpers” , ie electric wires with alligator clips to connect the flash to the hotshoe with the connection inverted.
I think that you can forget the Analog meter test now, the spectrum flash with 2 leads will do as a “hot shoe testing device” .


Quote:
Seems so odd though to me that the internal flash then ( MUST be on a totally different circuit ) works and then the external doesn't BUT Guess that's why the selection is being offered in the FLASH MENU settings..
Does the internal flash always work if you set it to “forced” ?
If it does, at least you got a chance to use the external flash as a slave , if the hotshoe circuitry is really blown.
I guess that the 2 circuits are distinct at the power level (out put) , 2 signals came out from the main board , one for the internal flash triggering circuit, one for the hot shoe SCR (or equivalent) , this design allows switch flashes modes in the menu , without the need of an extra hardware switch ; again, this is pure speculation.


Quote:
Take care KCan...Hopefully I'll also get an answer to the batteries question...I wrote about it in the batteries forum never any answer............MAYBE I wrote it into the wrong area.???
No , that’s the right place, guess that users are not present , and many don’t have your problem .
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Old Jun 9, 2003, 7:22 AM   #14
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A logic probe as suggested by Voxmagna is certainly able to detect the shorting pulse , but need a bit wiring job to feed a “hi” level signal. But sometimes , this is not a that good idea because of the extreme sensitivity of logic probes.
I didn't give you the detail in case 'it was a bridge to far'. The flash contact on your camera will probably be 'open drain mos' so meters won't always work, and when they do you'll need the high ohm setting. The pulse will be very short so that's why you need the pulse stretcher monostable of the probe, and the cam shoe will need some volts (e.g on ohms range, to sink current)

So, take one Maplin logic probe. Conect its supply crock clips to a 6 volt or 9 volt battery. Connect the ground/battery negative clip to your shoe outer contact. Connect the probe tip to one end of a 1K ohm resistor, and the other end of the resistor to the battery positive. Check the probe flashes by connecting the probe tip/resistor junction on and off to the battery negative. Now hook the probe tip on the camera shoe center pin and hit the shutter.

If you think it's too sensitive to background spikes, add a 0.01uf capacitor between the battery ground, and the probe tip/resistor junction. VOX
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Old Jun 10, 2003, 9:54 PM   #15
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Default HOTSHOE MUST BE FRIED_External Flash Won't Work..

Hi...Thanks to KCan and others that have answered my questions and offered " troubleshooting " advice. 8)

Much as I tried to believe it to be able to work ; the hotshoe's circuitry does not EVER fire any flash.

I tried YOUR suggestion KCan ; with the utilizing the Spectrum 350MD flash ; as the troubleshooter for the hotshoe. I reversed the polarity on the leads then tested ; nothing.

SO..I have to sadly admit that the Sony DSC-D770 hotshoe is gone to the bad semi-conductor pile ; ( wherever that may be).

I have been concentrating on the internal flash...If I dared to I would try to remove the flash ( but I can't easily and adequately ) feel safely comfortable in such a task. One wrong moved and I could render the camera useless.

I've spent too much money on it ; to chance that : home : fix UNLESS was sure of a safe outcome. Too chancy.

So ; I am going to concentrate on if the flash works..( and then I can adjust the EV (I am a long ways into the learning also) ; and If I need to try to " crank " the f/stop max. I could do what I can with the internal flash.

Most of the shots I intend to concentrate on outdoors...coming up this Summer of 2003 ; won't need a flash. I wanted to (like most camera owners) have the built-in flash ability to use it if need be.

I have actually ( been possibly still considering a different camera) as I am not ever really sure ( yet) what I want in a camera..I've tested many...For now : I'm going to use the SONY and do the best I can with what I have...That's how life is suppose to be for us anyways right?

Thanks again..I still haven't received any batteries / charger answers in the batteries forum..So I will be trying a different posting approach there again.

Take care ..and HEY I do appreciate all of your time helping...I look forward to further guidance and help ( as maybe I can offer my input somewhere along the posting path.)

Bye for now...Ed~
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Old Jun 10, 2003, 11:30 PM   #16
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Hi Ed again
Quote:
I tried YOUR suggestion KCan ; with the utilizing the Spectrum 350MD flash ; as the troubleshooter for the hotshoe. I reversed the polarity on the leads then tested ; nothing.
Yeah, to me it’s dead for good.

Quote:
I have been concentrating on the internal flash...If I dared to I would try to remove the flash ( but I can't easily and adequately ) feel safely comfortable in such a task. One wrong moved and I could render the camera useless.
I've spent too much money on it ; to chance that : home : fix UNLESS was sure of a safe outcome. Too chancy.
I would not try unless you are sure about what you do. A worth try is to ask for an estimation at a Sony service center, IMO. At least , It works without flash now.

Quote:
So ; I am going to concentrate on if the flash works..( and then I can adjust the EV (I am a long ways into the learning also) ; and If I need to try to " crank " the f/stop max. I could do what I can with the internal flash.
If you could just make it work reliably, than you are ok, just use a slave cell to use the external flash.

Quote:
...For now : I'm going to use the SONY and do the best I can with what I have...That's how life is suppose to be for us anyways right?
I am with that philosophy too , in both material and spiritual/emotional points of view


Quote:
Thanks again..I still haven't received any batteries / charger answers in the batteries forum..So I will be trying a different posting approach there again.
Yo are very welcome, you may try also asking/searching in other forums as well (dpreview , etc … ) ? who knows ?
Wish you good luck and a good shooting season!
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Old Jun 10, 2003, 11:47 PM   #17
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Default What camera offers the HIGHEST OPTICAL ZOOM Lens?

Hi..KCan...Thanks.....for the reply back..

Question to you...and others ( but you are the one with a lot of actual ; hands on the camera advice.. ;-) or maybe because you are the fastest (also) to respond to my posts..

What camera's ( roughly if you know) offer the " highest " (Magnification I guess is the correct phrase to use??_) of OPTICAL Lens.?

I am aware of the Olympus C700 (10x) ; the Sony FD-91 (14x) ; and then that's about it...I know that there's no doubt more.??

My Sony DSC-D770 has a 5x optical and I after using that ; I would like to possibly (if I change cameras) ; (if I say) :shock: I'd like to NOT really downgrade to a lower Optical Zoom lens.

Any suggestions....?? Just some camera names and models will help me to search the reviews..Thanks Ed~
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Old Jun 11, 2003, 8:15 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by One_Eye_Ed
What camera's ( roughly if you know) offer the " highest " (Magnification I guess is the correct phrase to use??_) of OPTICAL Lens.?
…hum, I think that you are talking about « zoom range »? 5x, 7x, … the important thing is where it starts and ends.
For example, My D7i start at 28mm and go to 200mm ( 35mm film camera equivalent), That makes it a 7x
Your cam lens starts at 28 mm ( as « wide » as mine ) but go to 140 mm only. So you got 5x, but you have the same wide angle as mine .
Another cam can have 10x lense , but if it starts at 35mm and ends at 350mm focal , you may like it, or not. Depends on what you consider as priority. My priority was a wide angle at 28mm minimum ( I mean max , 28 mm or wider) for indoor and landscape . One may adore it if his/her priority is shooting at long zoom range, scarifying wide angle ends. (Of course, you may use add on lenses too)

There is another thing to consider if you care: that’s about macro ability. (shooting at very close range, to get a close pic of objects, flowers, insects …)

For choices, I think that you will have better opinions from more users/owners by posting in general forum , or pick 2 or 3 to compare, based on what's important for you.
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Old Jul 20, 2003, 11:06 AM   #19
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Default general info

the following offers no suggestions as to the solution to your difficulty but, in some fashion, might be useful for you.

i have a D700 (the predecessor) and use it with an early 1980's vintage Vivitar 283. The 283 works flawlessly off the hot shoe (aperture priority with the flash set to automatic)

I also bought a hot-shoe to PC terminal adaptor and use this to fire my 80's vintage bowens monolights - again with 100% reliability. the camera's set for manual adjustment/exposure in this case.

since i don't use it much these days, I thouoght i'd give it a try and see if everything still works.

i set the exposure to manual, f 8, ss 250. Set the 283's auto setting to f8.

... now the very, very inveresting part ...

Ahead of time, I had checked to see how the D700's flash setting was set.

It was set to Off.

I wondered about this because I have rarely, if ever, changed the flash setting. So, I left it there and took a shot. Bingo! It worked. The flash fired and the image was fine.

I assume that it also works that way with the monolight since, as i pointed out, i rarely, if ever, change this flash setting.

"Off" Curious ... How about that?
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Old Jul 21, 2003, 11:24 AM   #20
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steve-o ,
It would be interesting also to know the trigger voltage of your 283 if possible (283 has at least 2 versions )
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