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Old Feb 25, 2016, 12:00 PM   #11
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I shoot with the 58 on Sony gear. That flash will shoot at any shutter speed that camera has (1/4000 max for the A 550). HSS is possible with any speed you want but there's a process you need to understand. The limitations are with off camera flash, 1/200 with stabilization on and 1/250 off.
Once you understand it you can shoot in manual mode and control all things that will give you correct exposure.
What, specifically are your trying to shoot?
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Old Feb 25, 2016, 8:19 PM   #12
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I shoot with the 58 on Sony gear. That flash will shoot at any shutter speed that camera has (1/4000 max for the A 550). HSS is possible with any speed you want but there's a process you need to understand. The limitations are with off camera flash, 1/200 with stabilization on and 1/250 off.
Once you understand it you can shoot in manual mode and control all things that will give you correct exposure.
What, specifically are your trying to shoot?
He said it was dogs racing on a track after dark under lights. He's probably taking shots back to back just as fast as he can.
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Old Feb 27, 2016, 7:23 PM   #13
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I am shooting drag racing at a local facility. I was using my own dogs running back and forth at night for practice targets. During the day I shoot in burst mode using either aperture or shutter priority adjusting ISO as needed. I am still a relative noob to full manual shooting as it has never been necessary and have never tried action shots at night where the lighting has been this bad.

You know more about this body and flash combo than I do Mike so am happy to listen to any advice you care to offer when it comes to manual shooting with flash at night.

My limited experience with off camera flash has been for portrait shots and accent lighting.
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Old Feb 27, 2016, 9:49 PM   #14
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I am shooting drag racing at a local facility. I was using my own dogs running back and forth at night for practice targets. During the day I shoot in burst mode using either aperture or shutter priority adjusting ISO as needed. I am still a relative noob to full manual shooting as it has never been necessary and have never tried action shots at night where the lighting has been this bad.

You know more about this body and flash combo than I do Mike so am happy to listen to any advice you care to offer when it comes to manual shooting with flash at night.

My limited experience with off camera flash has been for portrait shots and accent lighting.
What is the question?

Motorsports is my "profession". Photography is my hobby.

Are you trying to practice flash photography for drag racing using dogs or using the flash to photo dogs?

You started off by saying the flash stopped working.
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Old Feb 27, 2016, 11:07 PM   #15
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That's a tough situation Steve.
The only suggestion I have is to try to not overpower the cars with flash. Preferably you want a balance of the ambient light with the flash. I might underexpose the ambient down to -1EV just to keep the shutter speeds up and dial my flash in from there. The only problem with under exposing at ISO 1600 might be the noise boosting the exposure in post.
To start;
If you have a 2.8 lens at the right focal length use it in "A" mode and start at ISO 1600. That may not even be enough to get fast shutter speeds. If the shutter speed is not fast enough then you can underexpose it with the EV adjustment. You could start with the flash in manual 1/1 and adjust the cameras flash EV adjustment up or down to get the flash/ambient balance.
Maybe the second the driver punches it and is not moving too fast would be the best time to shoot.
Good luck.
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Old Feb 28, 2016, 1:39 PM   #16
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What is the question?

Motorsports is my "profession". Photography is my hobby.

Are you trying to practice flash photography for drag racing using dogs or using the flash to photo dogs?

You started off by saying the flash stopped working.
Flash photography I can practice anywhere the lighting is not the greatest. Trying to keep the dogs in frame is great panning practice and much more difficult than trying to follow humans. If you ever find yourself in the need of panning and tracking practice have someone throw a ball and use dogs for practice targets. Doing it at night and adding the flash increases the degree of difficulty and gives great hands on experience with different setting to figure out what does and does not work.

I never said anything about dogs racing on a track. Dogs at the track are easy to shoot as the ques are auditory as well as visual. The dog tracks where I have shot all had excellent lighting making life much easier.



Thanks for the suggestions Mike. I am going to sit with my camera and flash reviewing the books so I am familiar with the settings you mentioned. I have four more test and tune days prior to the first Summit Series event to practice so should be able to figure it out.

There are adjustments that have to be made at night and I do seem to be learning from my mistakes. My shooting position during the day works because I am in a good position to get a series of shots. Where I might get five or six shots during the day with the recharge time of the flash I might get two at night. If I try to shoot from the same position at night the headlights the cars run to combat the poor track lighting is right in the lens.

VTphotog. It did not make sense at the time but I get what you were saying about the burst of light having more effect that the actual time the shutter is open.

Thanks again for all of the suggestions. Between now and Saturday I should have plenty of time to become familiar with all of the settings to make adjustments on the fly to find what works best. Good or bad I will post some examples for critique.
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Old Feb 28, 2016, 3:59 PM   #17
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A couple things I might add: You will get faster recharge on your flash during the day when using it as fill, than you will at night, when it has to provide the primary light, so that could account for the difference in number of shots. You will probably get some light trails from the car lights if your camera is using 1/60 s for shutter opening, in spite of the flash. Not sure what, if anything you can do about this.
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Old Feb 28, 2016, 9:22 PM   #18
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I need to learn to punctuate. I do not use the flash during the day. I was referring to shots in a sequence and how five or six shots of a car leaving the line during the day (no flash) would be cut to maybe two shots at night due to the recharge time of the flash.

It increases the degree of difficulty with the timing. During the day I can look through the viewfinder with one eye and watch the tree with the other. When I see the last yellow light I can start shooting in burst mode. The first shot the car is just starting to move. The second is when the rear tires will begin to wrinkle (for cars with slicks of that type) and front end starts coming up. Shots three, four, and five fill out the sequence.

At night I have to be careful to not waste the first shot like I can during the day. I am not sure what my recharge times will be like. For batteries I currently use Sanyo Enloops. Do some batteries recharge the flash faster than others? Using the burst mode how many times could I expect the flash to fire in six frames?
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Old Feb 29, 2016, 11:02 AM   #19
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I found this very helpful http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03...tart-here.html.
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Old Feb 29, 2016, 11:03 AM   #20
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I use enloops also.
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