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Old Oct 26, 2002, 9:57 PM   #1
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Default Infrared Photography on the S602Z

Hey all,

I've recently decided to try my hand at infrared photography. I've got the S602Z, and I did the TV remote control test and the CCD gives a good indication of infrared sensitivity.

Where do I go from here? I don't want to spend too much to get started, perhaps start out with a $30 or so NIR/IR filter. I've done a little research on this already and I seem to be homing in on these: Kodak Wrattan 89b, 88a, and 87, the Hoya R72, and the Heliopan 8125.

I have the 55mm extension tube for my S602, and two conversion lenses that measure 62mm. My current plan is to try and buy all 67mm filters (to limit vignetting when I decide to use multiple filters simultaneously) and secure them to either the tube or the lenses with stepping rings.

(1) Is this smart? If so, is it possible?

(2) How will IR filters fit into this scheme? Are they available in a variety of sizes?

(3) Finally, where can I look at/buy these IR filters in the SF Bay area?

Thanks to anyone willing to help me out with these questions. I haven't had too much luck researching it myself, so I'm hoping someone who's already got some kind of setup will offer me some advice.

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Old Oct 27, 2002, 4:02 AM   #2
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Sever, Where are you sourcing 'stepping rings' from? I found the Fuji wide angle lens has a 70mm mount diameter - pretty useless for putting anything on!

I've got a piece of Kodak Wratten IR filter (celluloid, not mounted) so will see what I get. Probably need 1600 ASA though!

I tried it, my gel filter's a No.87C. At 1600ASA in daylight manual mode f2.8, long shutter, I can see IR sources(tungsten lamp) in the viewfinder. I can see the IR emission from a TV remote, straight into the lens.

I don't think the 602 will ever compete with an image intensifier/night sight. However, If you throw a couple of hundred watts of IR at something you will get pics I'm sure.

One problem might be focusing. IR is a longer wavelength than visible light, and the focused plane for lenses, on the ccd, will not be the same. Experiment with manual focussing
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Old Oct 27, 2002, 1:52 PM   #3
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Default 87c IR Filter

I'm not sure what you mean by "where are you sourcing stepping rings from". I don't have a Fuji wide angle lens--I went with some cheaper lenses, I have a 0.5x and a 2.0x by Crystal Vision. They're not the best lenses in the world, but they're servicable and they expand my optical zoom from 17.5mm - 420mm equivalent. In any case, they measure 62mm.

I've noticed that they'll both easily take one 62mm filter without vignetting--the problem is that I'm interested in putting more than one. For example, I'd like to shoot with both a polarizing and a UV filter during the day. I have these in 55mm that I can put between the extension tube and the lenses, but then I get severe vignetting. Less of a problem if I use two 62mm filters, but I was hoping to get 3 or 4 if I could step up to 67mm off the end of those lenses.

The 87c is pretty close to the darkest IR filter out there according to what I've read...check it out: http://www.cliffshade.com/dpfwiw/ima...er_spectra.gif. The 50% transmissivity point is right around 850_nm, which is pretty high compared to the others. From what I've been able the gather, from highest to lowest transmissivity in the CCD-detectable spectrum: 89b -> 88a -> 87 -> 87b -> 87c.

Apparently the Hoya series of IR filters are labelled for the 50% transmissivity point, making it very easy to understand which filter does what. The Hoya R72, for example, has 50%T at 720_nm. The Hoya R90 has a 50%T of 900_nm (making it darker than the 87c).

I guess I'd be looking to start out with the 89b or 88a, whichever's cheaper. Actually, I'd like to start with the 89b I think because I've heard you can get cool false colors because it actually allows the very low end of the visible red spectrum through...though I guess the skies won't be as moody or forboding for it. Another advantage with the lower 50%T filters, though, is that the focusing situation will be less of a problem, especially at higher f-stops.

I'm mostly planning on shooting with these kinds of filters in daylight or bright indoor tungsten, so I don't really foresee the need to step down to ISO 1600 or stop up all the way. I've heard with the Canon G1 PowerShot people actually hand hold in bright daylight with an 87--at fully open f-stop they're getting 1/250th. I'm hoping to get somewhere around there with the S602Z and the 89b.

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Old Oct 28, 2002, 2:37 AM   #4
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Default Incorrect Link

Sorry about that...the link I provided in my last reply doesn't work because the period ending the sentence is (for some odd reason) included in the URL. Try this instead:


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Old Dec 19, 2002, 6:55 AM   #5
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Does anyone know if it is worth it to buy the 0.5x and a 2.0x by Crystal Vision lenses?

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Old Dec 19, 2002, 8:06 AM   #6
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I have both of these lenses. They suit my needs very well, but it's hard for me to say if anyone else will find them satisfactory. It depends on what you're looking for. If you just want a basic telephoto and wide-angle conversion lens without spending a lot of money, then these are the way to go. Don't expect the finest quality, though, obviously.

Also, the 0.5x (actually, it's a 0.48x) exhibits quite a bit of vignetting at the widest shots, which are 17.5mm equivalent. I haven't tried it yet, but I've heard that you can take several shots if this is a problem and simply stitch them together. You should ask a stitching expert somewhere on these discussion forums though--I think I heard once that the wider the angle, the more distortion when you stitch. 17.5mm equiv is pretty wide.

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