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Old Apr 5, 2008, 8:52 PM   #1
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I was taking pics today and using the "sunny 16" rule, shooting in manual mode.

At ISO 100, I shot at f/16 @ 1/125. Bright, sunny, etc.

I used three camera at these exact settings.

Minolta 7D---dead on gorgeous exposure

Canon 10D- Excellent exposure

Fuji S3- One full stop off. Underxposed by one stop everywhere I shot. I had to shoot at F/11 @ 1/125th to get a correctly exposed picture.

Since I was in manual mode, I'm over-riding the camers meter, so that can't be the problem.

Any ideas? Thanks!!
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Old Apr 6, 2008, 9:11 PM   #2
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Are you sure it's not the lens? Do you have any filters on it that may be interfering with light transmission?

I haven't noticed anything that implies this Fuji is less sensitive than set for ISO speed. I'd see if you get the same behavior with a different lens on it, in case it's something unique to the lens you're using.

If it's still underexposing compared to the other cameras, I'd try resetting it back to factory defaults in case a setting somewhere is causing it. It could even be a White Balance difference (since changing WB applies RGB multipliers to the image) if you're using Auto White Balance; or some kind of other setting influencing it somewhere (although I wouldn't expect it to be a full stop off).


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Old Apr 7, 2008, 10:00 AM   #3
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It could be the lens. I was using the sigma 24-70mm f/2.8.

I'll try a Nikon 50mm f/1.8 lens and see what results I get.

No filters were used.

If I shoot in A, P, or S mode, the cameras meter does a great job. It's only in "M" mode, do I have to reduce the shutter speed by a half or full stop.

Let me resize the pics, and I'll post them today.


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Old Apr 7, 2008, 10:06 AM   #4
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Here's the Minolta 7D with the 17-35mm lens.

Perferct sunny, bright day, shooting away from the sun.

Manual mode: "sunny 16" rule.

EXIF:

F/16 @ 1/125 sec. at ISO 100

1:14pm 04/06/08
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Old Apr 7, 2008, 10:16 AM   #5
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Now here's the Fuji S3 Pro only seconds later.

F/16 @ 1/125sec at ISO 100. Sigma 24-70mm 2.8

1:15 pm 04/06/08

This shot was at 24mm wide. I got the same results at all zoom levels.

The Minolta 7D was shot at 17mm wide.

Both photos were converted from RAW in Adobe Lightroom. However, niether image had any retouching, etc.

They are both as recorded AWB, ISO 100, sRGB. Fuji was in "wide" dynamic range auto mode.

I had to shoot the Fuji at F/16 @ 1/60 to get the proper exposure.

Now, one more note of interest:

- I stated that the Fuji used in A, S or P modes meters accurate. So,

..if I point the Minolta at the clear blue sky, in A mode, A set to F/16, the Minolta gave me a shutter speed of 1/125th at ISO 100. Picture was properly exposed.

-The Fuji in A mode, set at f/16, gives me a shutter speed of 1/60, or 1/90 at ISO 100, and that gives me a perfect exposure.

I have a Canon 10D, Nikon D100, Minolta 7D anmd the Fuji S3.

The Fuji S3 is the only one that wants to shoot a stop less. Can anyone else compare thiers?

Thanks.
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Old Apr 7, 2008, 10:47 AM   #6
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1958fury wrote:
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Both photos were converted from RAW in Adobe Lightroom. However, niether image had any retouching, etc.
It could be something with the way Lightroom is handling the conversion, too. They're going to apply a default curve to the captured image, and the way they're handling the S3 Pro could be the culprit, especially due to it's rather unique photosite design, requiring the developer to use a given mixture between the larger and smaller photosites during the demosaic process.

I'd see if you get any differences using something like the free Raw Therapee with a linear conversion (that's not applying any kind of curve to the results during the demosaic process). You'll see Linear button under the tone curve options when converting. You'll see a download menu choice on their web site (it's free):

http://www.rawtherapee.com

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Old Apr 7, 2008, 11:11 PM   #7
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I'll try it.

Thanks!!
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Old Apr 10, 2008, 10:36 AM   #8
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Well, it's not the software nor then lens. I tried theNikon 50mm 1.8 and got the same results.

The histogram is usually geared toward the left, so it's not Adobe Lightroom.

In Manual mode, it just wants to shoot a stop wider to expose properly, and in all other modes, the piture is perfectly exposed, but the shutter is always a stop slower than my other cameras.

Does anyone have a Fuji s3 and another DSLR to conclude my findings?

Thanks!!
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Old Apr 10, 2008, 10:44 AM   #9
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You mentioned that it's set for "wide dynamic range" . Does it behave the same way with a different DR setting?

Given that your sample probably has an awful lot of detail in the shadows you could pull out, I'm wondering if something in it is setup to record images differently, depending on DR settings.

Hopefully, someone else with the S3 can check it against another camera.

How about other ISO speeds? Sometimes, ISO 100 on a camera is not a true ISO speed (with some models, the base ISO is really ISO 200, and ISO 100 is achieved by using different multipliers against the data from the sensor).

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Old Apr 10, 2008, 10:00 PM   #10
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I thought about the dynamic range setting, but it performs the same in "standard" mode also.

I haven't tried another ISO, that's a good point.

This picture was taken from my front door today.Gorgeous bright sunny day, very bright, and no haze or humidity, high contrast day.

"Sunny 16" rule, F/16 @ 1/125th. Funny thing is, in "A" mode, "A" set to F/16, meter on "pattern/matrix", the camera decided a shutter speed of 1/60,and it was properly exposed. I grabbed my faithful Minlta 7D, shot in "M" mode at F/16 @ 1/60, and overexposed. Shot at 1/125, and dead-on!!

I can take my two cameras( Fuji S3, Minolta 7D), using spot meter, and the Fuji always reads a stop less. So when using the non-manual modes, even though the picture is properly exposed, I'm losing a stop, either by having to use a slower shutter speed, or a wider aperature.

I have switched between "standard" and "wide" range, and RAW to jpeg. F1 and F2 modes have no affect in "M" either. SRGB color space,etc..

I will try ISO 200...F/16 @ 1/250th, and other ISO settings, etc..and post my results.

Thanks Jim.
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