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Old Sep 15, 2004, 1:35 AM   #1
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I am new to photography period- but in the last year I've learned a bit about digital cameras... even so I was still silly enough to buy a S5000 even though I knew there were plenty of others with sharper pix. Still it's a really nice camera.

My question concerning firmware is why does it have to come from Fuji? There are a lot of very smart people/companies out there knowledgable in digital tech. I know Fuji says that nothing can be done about the compression "problem" but why can't some analysis of the camera's program/other be done independantly, and if there is a fix... even a partial fix- put it out in the marketplace? This would make a lot of S5000 user very pleased and would make someone a fast bit of money.

Just a thought, I'd appreciate some input.

Bjane
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Old Sep 15, 2004, 7:56 AM   #2
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Your assuming its Flash Updatable and not a new firmware chip. I have asked Fuji numerous times if the firware was flash updatable and they never give me a straight answer. I have looked at most all of their support pages and I could find any firware updates for any of their cameras. My guess is that a firmware chip has to be replaced.

If they are flash updatable, you probably right that some else could develop and update, however it is probably illegal because of some patent. Also if a firware upgrade goes bad, who would be responsible for fixing the camera if the end user did something wrong during the update. I don't think fuji would.

Just my thoughts.


FYI they seem to address their issues by making you buy a new camera like the Fuji 5100. That way they continually produce and sell new cameras and don't worry about the older models
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Old Sep 16, 2004, 3:11 PM   #3
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Thanks!

OK... I've noticed that to some degree, thecompression artifacts and the fringing (pick a color) can be adjusted out of the picture (in photoshop7) by slightly changing the the contrast/brightness. Of course this alters the entire picture as well but over and over again with just a little adjustment i've noticed a striking improvement. This seems to work only after it's reduced to a smaller size- then i sharpen it a bit and it's all good... please pardon my novicity in the complexity of both cameras and photoshop.

So this leads into my next question regarding blooming: Could it be somewhat possible that the less than ideal pre-compression of the S5000 could be in part due to how the image/light is coming through the lens before it hits the sensor? meaning could the over-compression atributes actually have been there before it got compressed and the processing of those abberations causes it to get worse? Or rather, the sensormay not be correctly shielded or filtered.

Where i'm going with this is: Can some of the aberration be eliminated by adding a special filter or filters on the outside of the camera. Are there any filters that could be considered usefull in this regard, for this camera?

I know that each subject/situation is different... but the camera is the same and alwayshas this problem to some extent. When simply shooting fine print & lines on white paper (a test i did) this camera always shows a degree of "fringing" or "blooming no matter the oreintation of the lines. I think that the blue in the sky that always shows overcompression artifacts is also somehow linked to "stuff in the background" which is either coming through -or- is being put there (noise?) by the camera before it's compressed.

It almost seems to me that there are multi-points in the sensor that do not process contrast correctly... and maybe there is way to compensate for this beforehand.

Any thoughts? Thanks-

Bjane
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Old Sep 16, 2004, 9:53 PM   #4
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I think what your talking about may be the way your images appear on the computer screen. When you actually print them to you see the same issues? I know for some reason the computer screen images seem to have issues but I think its something to do with the resolution images to PC conversions. I am no expert either so I may be way off. I know to get the best onscreen images I often just resample the image to 600DPI which seems to make them appear crisper.

I really don't think filtering will help. I have used filters with digicams and they do work but they seem to enhance issues if there are any. Thats just one more piece of glass to go through.

I am kind of handicapped because I don't have a 5000 but a 7000 so my answers may be off. I know that I amost always choose a mode other than Full Auto and that gives me the best pictures. I also set my focus to Spot and put the camera in continueous autofocus. I usually use "P" mode and adjust the dial to get the best mix for the particular situation. It doen't take an expert to use the P setting since its only the aperature and shutter speed but it does make the pictures much better in my case. I also try to stay away from Full Telephoto mode just backing it off a bit. Every brand of camera I have tried seems to take the best shots by nottaking the lense to the extreme telephoto or widange end of the range.

I hope that will help you some.
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Old Sep 20, 2004, 2:13 PM   #5
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Thanks Host, and for your suggestions.

I was thinking along the lines of a hot mirror filters and contrast filters... cant find much in these forums on them (they are mentioned though), on the web it's all what they should do but can't find much in the way of what they actually do(on the S5000/S7000).

Was wondering if you have tried changing the sharpness setting to "soft". I read somewhere that this setting could actually bea partial causeof the "compression artifacts" & "noise"? The Normal & Hard setting does seem to contribute to problems but trying to sharpen the "soft" using PS-7 does not do an adequate job.

...Just kinda figured that with all the S7000/S5000 users out there, that little tricks might have been worked out- simple ones without all the different conversions from RAWand such.

I have printed some color 8x10's& some postcards... and you are right, they look better than on the computer but I can still tell they were done on a digicam- just trying to do better!

Bjane

~BTW I found this: http://www.neatimage.com/...fantastic! Solved most of my problems. I downloaded their freeware version and went to work (took some figuring out)... the program even knew what camera/model I used and already had the Jpeg compression/noise information on file.... one may need to reduce/increase some of the values/settings though- default worked pretty well on inanimate objects/birds/flowersbut was a little too aggressive on the human skin.

HAAC! (happy as a clam)

Bj

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