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Old Jan 3, 2006, 4:45 AM   #11
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In search of Syd wrote:
The S9000 shots were taken in Auto mode with an ISO of 400! Even if you set the camera in MASP modes to say 200, the Auto mode chooses its own ISO. For this reason I never use Auto as sometimes it chooses ridiculously high ISO settings.
So it appears from your experience Syd that Auto ISO is unreliable and not to be trusted - makes you wonder why it's therein the first place if it is so obviously temperamental? I'venoticed on some of the other complaint posts that high ISO has been a consistent factor when viewing exif data. I should thinkmany new users would assume that Autowouldbe a safe starting pointwith the camera.

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Old Jan 3, 2006, 5:38 AM   #12
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The Auto mode is extremely contrary and sometimes irrational, therefore making it quite unreliable with regards to ISOs*.

* not to be mistaken for ISoS
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Old Jan 3, 2006, 10:53 AM   #13
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Personally, I don't see anything wrong with the pictures of the letter. The light is soft; the letter is soft but it is in focus. I think if you want the letter to have more impact then you should probably add some direct light.

I don't think auto ISO is especially unreliable. I believe that its effectiveness depends on the quality and type of light that is used in a photograph. During the holidays as we all experimented with my new S9000, whenever my wife took the camera I would set everything, including ISO, to automatic. She is easily intimidated with the camera, but wanted to take some pictures. She would let me guide her a little on where to stand and how to position herself to get some effective pictures of the grandchildren. Many of our flash pictures were exposed at ISO 400. I was not particularly happy with the camera's choice, but the pictures printed beautifully. In my opinion there was very little if any noise and I think the higher ISO contributed to greater detail in the shadow areas. I think the best thing any of us can do is shoot a lot of pictures under different lighting conditions and at different ISO settings and find out what works for each of us. It's not like it's going to cost us any money to experiment, and the more we take pictures the more we will know how the camera is going to react to our different styles of shooting.
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Old Jan 5, 2006, 5:42 PM   #14
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ISO: 7k-200/9k-400
compresion: 7k-?/9k-medium (not fine)
conclusion of my eyes: 9k better
explanation: after two years of use nothing is better tan your old 7k. sometimes I say same thing about my old HP 945... :-)
enjoy your new 9k!!!
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Old Jan 6, 2006, 10:09 AM   #15
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compression on lower resolutions on the S9k are medium, hence less sharpness, ALSO FUJI explains themselves on their website that you need to set yourt S9k to:

saturation : high, sharpness: high, and contrast also set high to get the same quality as the S7k. If you keep your settings standard, you will obvious get less quality because FUJI kept those settings low in the S9k standard to give users more room for PP.
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Old Jan 6, 2006, 3:05 PM   #16
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I'm just wondering where you found that information on the Fuji site?

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Old Jan 6, 2006, 3:58 PM   #17
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I reset my S-9000 based on Proton's post. It did markedly, at least to my eye, improve the images coming from my S-9K. Thanks Proton!

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Old Jan 6, 2006, 7:38 PM   #18
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A way to do what Proton suggests is to use the "Chrome" setting. This is found by pressing the F button. It sets the saturation:high, the contrast:high, but leaves the sharpness at standard.

I find this chrome setting good for scenery, landscapes, & when wanting a vivid result.

It's also a little quicker to set than changing contrast/saturation in the menus.

If desired one could add sharpness:hard to the chrome setting. This is recommended for shots of buildings or text where a sharp image is desirable.


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Old Jan 7, 2006, 8:13 AM   #19
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From a purist point of view the 9000 are better because they have much less in camera procesing. The 7000 picts have a white halo around the letters as the result of too much in-camera sharpening. This is unnatural and cannot be removed properly from the image. The 7000 also has a little too much contrast which can reduce the range from light to dark. If you want that type of, IMO, poor image quality from your 9000, use chrome mode with hard sharpening. The 7000 images also had a lot more noise.
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Old Jan 20, 2006, 12:02 PM   #20
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Your issue is actually quite simple. All light meters including built in ones assume that a subject when averaged is 18% grey. Your subject has a whole lot of white in it and therefore without some manual tweaking, the photos have been overexposed (white is lighter than grey and hence the overexposure). Your answer is to manually underexpose such a scene. The white will become white. Try a series +1, +1.5, +2 fstops and see what happens!
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