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Old Apr 17, 2003, 7:02 AM   #1
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i'm looking to get an external flash for my 602

i'm dont really have a clue about them at all!!

so if anyone else out there is using the camera with a flash can you give me an idea on what to look for.

i kinda just need it to stop getting a shadow from the lens attachement.

thanks
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Old Apr 17, 2003, 9:02 AM   #2
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Quote:
so if anyone else out there is using the camera with a flash can you give me an idea on what to look for.
I'm using an oldish dedicated Cobra with bounce and swivel head, off my Pentax slr. Its got 'auto' setting. I tell the flash I'm on ASA200 at f5.6, set the 602 to manual external f5.6;1/200th and the flash works out its own light for distances 1-8 metres, with more DOF than the default in-cam flash which sets to f2.8! AND I get no redeye, but usually use bounce a lot now.

I checked the shoe voltage (VERY IMPORTANT!) and it was about 5 volts (to be expected on a dedicated flash). I wouldn't use a flash unit with excess of 15 volts on the shoe - despite what Fuji might say!
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Old Apr 18, 2003, 6:33 AM   #3
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do you think this would be ideal?



Medium sized thyristor automatic and manual flashgun with variable bounce head for softer and more diffused lighting. The two auto settings give accurate exposure with the advantage of quicker recycling times and extra ease of use. Useful auto check feature alows exposure to be verified prior to shooting. Supplied with 4 clip on colour effect filters (red, blue, yellow and orange) and also a diffuser lens for use with wide angle lenses. Auto power off feature. - Full instructions and a superb 2 year Vivitar warranty are also included.

Guide Number : with ASA 100 film, 80 feet
Auto Range : 2.5 to 40 feet
Recycle Time : 0.5 to 5 seconds
Number of Flashes with Fresh Battery Set : up to 450 with Auto Use
Flash Duration : 1/2000 to 1/30,000 second
Angle of Illumination : 34 x 46
Batteries Required : 4 x AA Size


ideal or not?? thanks
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Old Apr 18, 2003, 7:10 AM   #4
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I had one of these, but I can't remember what the shoe voltage was - can anybody help?

I've done some indoor shots recently when mixed (tungsten) light kept fooling the flash's auto exposure, even though the cam was all manual. I'm now convinced with digicams, you need a flash with both the auto sensor and a total manual output control (no auto sensing) to pre-set the flash output for distance. The 602's histogram is good for confidence checking the settings of cam and flash. I half remember the colour settings on the front of the Vivitar are the distance ranges - but are these with or without the auto sensing?

This problem gets worse if you use the zoom at distance. The flash sensor measures the close up available light on auto and your zoom frame is under exposed. My Cobra head pulls out for lens angles 28-85mm - so you can get the light further when on zoom.
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Old Apr 18, 2003, 7:41 AM   #5
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i really just need it for when i am doing gig photos

exposing around 1/15 for sharp photos with motion blur

i'll have another search around but that ones seems pretty good for 16 (i'm a student!)

anyone else reccomend a flash that isnt in the hundreds or thousands.

thanks vox!
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Old Apr 18, 2003, 12:18 PM   #6
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I noticed you didn't pick up on some things. How would you feel if your new 16 flash fried your new 602? Cost you more than a few quid to get that fixed, even if you succeeded under warranty - it can be a long wait:

Google on words like 'Vivitar 2800', kill, 'fry', 'shoe voltage', 'zap', digicam.

Quote: "I have a non-dedicated Vivitar 2800 flash that I used with my OM2N. After the flash was charged up, I measured the voltage on the trigger pin It was over 100 volts. The T-20 had a much lower voltage. Maybe 30 volts. I don't recall all the numbers"

"Over 250 volts is common with older flashes. These beasts pack a heck of a punch. 5 volts is more usual now, but some may run a little higher"

"Could the higher trigger voltage on the Vivitar flash have damaged my OM2N's TTL circuit? The TTL circuit doesn't work right now."................ and so on.

Yep, I agree the price is cheap and affordable - and Fuji says it's ok so it's your risk!
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Old Apr 18, 2003, 1:00 PM   #7
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yeah, that would be a bit annoying

i'll have to find out an ideal flash

might email fuji

do you think i would get a reply?
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Old Apr 18, 2003, 1:25 PM   #8
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Yeah, Fuji may say the cam is good for shoe voltages up to 250 volt. What are you going to do if the email says OK and the cam fries, not straight away, but sometime when you need it most?

There are plenty here and on dpreview who have a competent knowledge of electronic components and how strong they are. I personally wouldn't risk more than 15volt. The fact that the 2800 might be over 100 volt gives its design age away, when electronic cameras were less common. I think this might have been the reason I gave mine away several months ago.

It's your cam and risk - we know what goes on under the bonnets!

As far as I'm concerned, the only use now for a 2800 or similar with digicams, is as a slave flash.

Check this out: Sunpaks are quite popular

http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html
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Old Apr 18, 2003, 4:03 PM   #9
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I have a 285hv, that's a pretty old design. But I purchased mine new from b&h photo not too long ago. This flash used to have a fhigh voltage years ago but it appears they have now revised the unit, becuase my late model unit has a trigger voltage <9V(8.44vdc) as per my DMM.

Perhaps they have also extended this revision to the other flashes in their line as well? If the online specifications don'e list it, why don't you email vivitar and ask them?

-Chris
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Old May 10, 2003, 2:55 AM   #10
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[quote="davebaird"]do you think this would be ideal?



Medium sized thyristor automatic and manual flashgun with
___________________
It almost looks like the Vivitar Zoom Thyristor 285 which I've had for over 10 years. It was very powerful, with variable angle bounce feature and wide angle lens adjustment insert, but I havent used it now that many cameras come with built in flash. I can't find the owner's manual and would like to know if the tiny retractable metallic button below the hot shoe base is in fact a hot shoe contact. Also the voltage, since it seems to be important consideration when used as an accessory flash with the 4900Z.
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