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Old Apr 21, 2003, 10:08 PM   #1
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Default S602z - Taking pics of fast moving objects

Hi,

As the subject says, Im trying to take pictures of RC Model Cars whilst there racing. So far, im getting great motion-blur images, but its not exactly what im looking for!!

Im relatively new to decent camera's, and as my first Fuji digicam died on my about 6 months ago (i think it was due to moisture through Mountain Biking in low clouds!!) and as i've got loads of Smart media cards, and liked the Fuji camera's i knew i wanted to continue with them. My mind was pretty much made when i tried the 6900z and thats when i fell in love, the 602 was about 200 more than i'd planned on spending, but i didnt have any say in the matter, i had to have it!

So, all this F5.6 and ISO 200 stuff is quite confusing.
I've spent the last 30min or so playing with the settings, and when i increase the ISO to 1000 using the 'command dial' and take a picture, i get black! and its not until i get to about 50 that its about right.
So, im lost!

Can someone give me a nudge in the right direction?

The photo object as i mentioned is moving RC cars, and the distances range from 60 meters to 5 meters, and i'd love to be able to get some decent action shots from big events.
Lighting i'd say would be Average to poor, most would be indoors under artifical light obviously.

Hope thats a decent bit of info on the conditions.

Thanks,

PaulC2K
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Old Apr 22, 2003, 10:11 AM   #2
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Here's the briefest of 'nudges'. You're getting confused between ISO setting, like film speed, and shutter speed (like shutter speed)

Put the 602 in any of the modes other than auto (which is fixed ISO), e.g shutter priority. Set the ISO to 200,400 (or if desperate for 1Mpix, 800 or 1600 ASA) in the menu. Now set the shutter speed fast enough to 'freeze' your action, you will be limited in how fast shutter you can go once auto expose reaches max f stop of f2.8. You can underexpose a bit and pull some back in editing

If you are indoors with low light, a lot of things are against you and you are probably forced into using flash. With the 602's internal flash you need to be close, say no more than 2-3 metres. Come off auto mode and set a fast shutter. With flash, provided you are close, the shutter speed has little effect on exposure, as the flash is much faster by comparison. At 2-3m, you could probably use a bit of zoom as well.

You say your shooting distances are longer than this, I'd recommend you try an external flash, but 50m is pushing it, perhaps 5-10 metres!. If you know the venue you might consider a remotely controlled slave flash unit, but these aren't cheap. If you only have artificial light then the best you will get will be fast shutter at 800/1600 ASA i.e 1Mpix and pics will be a bit noisy. The distance and getting enough light on the cars is your BIG problem. It would be the same with film and this isn't down to the 602.
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Old Apr 22, 2003, 11:15 AM   #3
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Thanks for the tips.

Certainly looks like ive been getting myself confused with the terminology of it all! I've only used Digital cameras really so i have plenty to learn.
I love the camera though, and im really pleased with the images im getting, the only problem i've had is the quick snaps.

What would you suggest for outdoors & heavy on the zoom?
Im at Old Trafford tomorrow for the Champions League Quarters, and Saturdays results weren't bad with the standard kit in Auto mode, but i found that there was still as many blured images as there were clear.

Thanks for the help, i'll be giving those settings a try on Thursday and i'll report back to base with how things went.
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Old Apr 22, 2003, 12:08 PM   #4
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Default Starting out ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulC2K
What would you suggest for outdoors & heavy on the zoom?
Im at Old Trafford tomorrow for the Champions League Quarters, and Saturdays results weren't bad with the standard kit in Auto mode, but i found that there was still as many blured images as there were clear.
Like my learned friend, Mr volkswagonmamma said, FORGET auto mode. It has NO CLUE what you are trying to achieve !! A,S and SP are all excellent semi-auto modes. The bottom line is this - You have to decide what is the PRIMARY scene "parameter" you want to capture ie moving objects (fast?), landscapes, portraits etc. That will FIX one of the 3 main variables (actually ISO is your "desperation" variable. Once you push past 400 you add noise). For sports "people" I'd suggest 1/250, remembering you're at full zoom (worse). With enough light you'll have plenty of "F Stop" to play with and won't even bother with ISO (160/200 is your default). As light fades the required "F stop" will drop below 2.8 and you'll be looking for desperate measures - increase ISO, external lighting. I'm afraid there are NO other magic beans in photography. Everyone is in the same boat.
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Old Apr 22, 2003, 1:40 PM   #5
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Well Put!

Quote:
Everyone is in the same boat.
AND that includes the film shooters - but you can change the ISO without taking the film out!!
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Old Apr 22, 2003, 1:41 PM   #6
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Yeah, I understand Auto's not the way to go, i've had the camera a few weeks and im still learning what half the settings are for (I found the 'Enter' button settings last night!) and theres loads of stuff i dont understand.

Auto has done what i've needed in these first few weeks, its taken clean photos of static objects, but im sure that if i new what i was doing, then going manual would have produced much better work, but most of what im doing (about 95%) is meant for the web, so compression is going to happen, a 6Mpix photo is stunning from my Hard Drive, but even over ADSL theres no way anyone would wait to see what ive got to show!!
But it gives me the opertunity to manipulate the image at that scale and then drop it down to 800x600 sized images.

I just need time to figure out what the other camera settings can do for me, at this stage, i couldnt say for sure what A, S & P each stood for! (sorry) so auto isnt a scratch on Manual etc, but the end results probably are in the hands of an ameture.

I'll be doing some practice shots while the players are practicing shots themself! so hopefully come the start of the match, i'll have more of an idea what setting i need to look for.

PaulC2K
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Old Apr 22, 2003, 3:15 PM   #7
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ok, i picked my s602 up today and tried a couple of shots (in auto mode) just to see what it does and how easy/difficult it is to
use. i only had a bout 30 mins. to take a gander at it. i took a pic of my tv and a backlit pic of a can of airfresshener.
both shots focused well and exposed very well. i then erased them. i did have a problem, when i first turned on the camera i set the date but not the time. the manual says to hit the back button to change it. well it didn't do anything for me. i am now assuming i should be in setup mode for that. correct? oh, also, somewhere in this forum was mention of someone who makes brackets for use with a cable release. anyone remember who what or where??

dennis
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Old Apr 22, 2003, 3:32 PM   #8
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Put your 602 into preview mode and get into the habit of hitting the OK button to save. Whilst in the preview mode you can see if a shot's roughly too light or dark even find the histogram button!! If the shot looks iffy, save or delete it, change your settings and retake.

The thing you can't see well is focus - so watch the low light and the hand signals for learner drivers!.
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