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Old Feb 1, 2007, 9:18 PM   #11
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Anything you do with the camera to give a lower shutter speed than the camera is metering for will burn out the highlights assuming the aperture is already stopped all the way.

You might experiment with shutter priority. Some cameras with limited aperture have built-in ND filters that will give an effective lower aperture than anything you can set manually or in aperture priority. Set the shutter slower than aperture priority at f8 is giving and look at the EXIF. If you end up with a smaller aperture shown in the EXIF you have an internal ND filter.

Another thing you can do that works better than some people think is to just put your sunglasses over the lens. I have a pair of Nikon polarized titanium sunglasses that Nikon advertises as having only 11% visible transmittance. That will slow your shutter considerably. That particular pair has multiple lens coating and good quality Nikon lenses, but most sunglasses will give lower distortion that you might suppose.

We were having a discussion a couple of years back about using polarized sunglasses as a polarizer. Someone posted a photo he took using a pair of extreme wraparound polarized glasses and I was surprised at the lack of distortion. The closer you can get the sunglass lens to the camera lens the better. You don't need polarized sunglasses to slow the shutter.

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Old Mar 6, 2007, 7:56 AM   #12
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Crossed polarizing fliters will give up to about 8 stops absorption. The color balance will be messed up but can be fixed in post processing. (The polarizing effect isn't ususally uniform over the whole spectrum - usually green will be affected the most).

Either photographic quality polarizing filters or sunglasses can be used.

Put two polarizers in front of the lens and rotate one with repect to the other. When they are "crossed" light transmission will be very low.

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Old Mar 6, 2007, 8:32 AM   #13
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If you can take your shots in RAW format. that way you could create two separate exposures in PS, one for the ground and one for the sky and merge them in PS.

The only problem is that if the original image is too exposed, then data will be lost and no matter how much tweaking will save it.

Worth a crack though if you have PS

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Old Mar 16, 2007, 9:13 AM   #14
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only the very latesr and dearest p&s cams have Raw, and if you are buying a converter (I have a couple) get them from lensmate and not Canon.

The Canon ones are plastic and loose fitting, where the Lensmate are alliminium and fit perfectly..

Then you can buy a circular polerizer with screw thread to fit converter..( which are in 52mm thread or 58mm) the 58mm better as you can get vignneting with the 52mm

Or you can get a cokin filter adapter,and loads of filters...Good luck.
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Old Mar 16, 2007, 9:33 PM   #15
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If you want less light, just go back near sunset or sunrise. Generally better light then anyway.
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