|
![]() |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
![]() |
#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Washington, DC, Metro Area, Maryland
Posts: 13,826
|
![]()
There are times when there's nothing in the image that's actually white, gray or black. Then it gets a little tougher.
__________________
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#12 |
Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 8,529
|
![]()
that's why color temperature adjustments in RAW work so well. You don't need any of the above. You can keep moving a slider to adjust the temperature and stop when the photo looks good to you.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Princeton, NJ
Posts: 361
|
![]()
Im with John, this alone is one of the biggest reasons I shoot RAW and all most PP flow starts with raw. There is a big difference between changing the digital data after the fact in much the same way the cameras processor would change it and going to jpeg and taking an already processed image and reprocessing it. Every time a change is made to jpeg your image data is degraded and you loose IQ, this is not the case with RAW files.
If you are going to shoot jpeg then the gray card and custom WB is your best bet, but then when the light changes you have to set it again. Then the one image you were after all day is wating for you but not for long, you swing the camera around and snap the shutter just to find out later that the custom WB you had set waws good for where you were pointed but not for where you snapped the image you were waiting for. The color of the light as well as the intensity plays a role in the WB. If you shoot raw you have the ability to change to one of many presets after the fact, use custom and a slider to adjust temperature or adjust off of one of the presets and alter the image as digital data before conversion, the results would be no different than using a grey card and setting that as custom WB. The only difference is you are changing the RAW information out of the camera instead of the camera applying those changes before converting it to jpeg. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#14 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: tr
Posts: 224
|
![]() Quote:
At the beginning of "Understanding Exposure" you would see that, writer says " it would be waste of time editing every picture you take with PP" not exactly like that it was something similar. So don't take every picture in RAW mode because you wouldn't have so much time if you want to edit them if you are not professional. For instance; Mark can take in RAW because he is a wedding photographer, he does this for living. On the other hand jpeg is compressed format of course editing in jpeg format would reduce quality but after 100 times i believe. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#15 | |
Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 8,529
|
![]() Quote:
So, what I'm saying is - it's not worth spending extra $$$ for me to convert to using raw files entirely. But I do process 100% of my images that I keep. And I absolutely make sure I have RAW files every time I use flash and every time I'm in a tough WB situation because I know I can save photos much easier with RAW than jpeg. If someone handed me a copy of Lightroom or CS5 I'd be inclined to switch to RAW only as it wouldn't add any time to my workflow and wouldn't cost me money. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|