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Old Feb 7, 2007, 4:00 AM   #11
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eric s wrote:
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Mark, those shots are stunning. For that shutter speed you have got to be amazing at panning. That is way beyond the results of the average person.

Thanks Eric, your shots are great, especially the 2nd one, I have not had a chance to really shoot birds (would not even know the best place to go locally) but would love to give it a go one day and if I could get results like that would be overjoyed.

I pretty much only shoot sports (and a lot of it) so always panning which gives me a lot of practise. Even though a lot of the time I'm shooting at higher shutter speeds the technique is still the same trying to keep the focus point on the same part of the subject so no difference when reducing the speed (apart from any errors can really be noticed lol). I guess my advice might have been a bit bias as I was not thinking of someone who does not shoot as much as me so will adjust my statement to say there can be benefits to having IS while you are still learning the technique.

The main thing to do is always keep the part of the subject you want sharpest at the same point of the frame (be that centre or otherwise).

In this shot I kept the helmet in the same position in the frame it is generally more noticeable when using shorter lenses that you get this affect due to the way the angles change and in this situation it is enhanced as I'm on the outside of the corner.



Make sure you are framing quite tight as well as this will help you find your target to 'lock' onto to get them nice and sharp.

As with all areas of photography practise practise practise.

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Old Feb 7, 2007, 4:11 AM   #12
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balmo wrote:
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mark1616, that tvr is hot! and on the 2nd pic, 1/60th at 400mm(!), thats a lot of skill. i want to think i have passable panning skills, especially what i has was only a p&s c740uz. im sure one i get my first tele, i would get better results, i hope. here are some more pics
Thanks, the lighting when shooting at the event with the TVR was wonderful (well on that stretch of the track) which made life much easier).

Your3rd one is really good (orange car) and also the first one you started the thread with. As I said above choose a point and keep that in the same part of the camera (the centre is the easiest), one thing that will really help you is a fast continuous shot 3fps is good enough as if you have a slight 'wobble' then you will get the next shot. As you have been getting good results with a P&S you are going to do well with the 400D. Your last shot shows really great potential as it was only 1/25th and it is almost nailed so if you had had enough light to have managed 1/60th or slightly higher then you would have had a great sharp car with that wonderfully blurred background.

Looking forward to seeing the results from the 400D.
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Old Feb 17, 2007, 1:55 AM   #13
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VTphotog wrote:
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IS or AS or SSS or whatever else it is being called now, is intended to compensate for inadvertent camera movement when hand-holding the camera. When panning, you are deliberately moving the camera to keep up with the subject. IS isn't going to do anything for you. Recommendations I have seen from manufacturers have been to turn it off for this use.

brian
Yup my Pentax K10D manual said that too (internal IS) But it does still vertically stabilize I have found (unless maybe you are panning diagonally.

I have tried it IS on and off.... on seemed to be no detriment, and at least still vertically stabalized.

Other IS systems might be different.
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