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Old Oct 10, 2003, 9:08 PM   #1
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Default digital camera for sport action?

I have a big dilemma about the camera I would like to buy, I want a camera that will be the best for sport action and will produce the closes thing to SLR, most of the action photos that i'll shot will be in the night with "low light" contition, I have no idea what to choose, hope you guys could help me decide..



till now I used oly c-4000 and the c-700 for action, here are few action pictures that I shot:

c-700:
http://www.mhaifa.co.il/Multimedia/P...1/Hbs-1-38.jpg

http://www.mhaifa.co.il/Multimedia/P...1/Hbs-1-14.jpg

http://www.mhaifa.co.il/Multimedia/P...1/Hbs-1-29.jpg

c-4000:

http://www.mhaifa.co.il/Multimedia/P...-1/Bj-1-26.jpg

http://www.mhaifa.co.il/Multimedia/P...-1/Bj-1-33.jpg

http://www.mhaifa.co.il/Multimedia/P...-1/Bj-1-35.jpg
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Old Oct 10, 2003, 11:11 PM   #2
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You have gotten fairly good results with the camera you have. I am impressed. I have no experience with the two cameras that you list. So I can't really say that camera X will do a better job for you.

Taking pictures of ports in low light is hard to do. You need a camera which can focus in low light quickly... or you need to do the focusing manually. Manual focus isn't always easy on consumer grade cameras (interface wise.)

What you are looking for is a camera with a good zoom, good clean higher ISO settings, fast AF (even in low light), reasonable manual focus controls, and have a hotshoe for an external flash (can help with the low light.)

I'm not sure how many fit that description (and are not an DSLR.) The Minolta Dimage 7i family is good, but getting a bit old. Not that its a strike against it as much as others might have come out now that are better. NHL (another person on this forum) has and loves one in that family of cameras. He might have something to add.

Eric
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Old Oct 11, 2003, 12:15 AM   #3
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I have a D7i but would recommend the Sony 717 for what you are doing. The lens is fast at f2 and it has the best low light focus of any camera. You donít usually need the wide angle for sports and the image stabilization on the new Minolta A1 isnít much help if the subject is moving. You might look at the reviews. The Sony 828 with a 28-200 f2 lens and 8Mp CCD was due out next month, but it has been delayed until after Christmas. That must really hurt over at Sony. It would be nice all around but it is heavy. http://www.steves-digicams.com/2002_reviews/f717.html
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Old Oct 11, 2003, 9:45 AM   #4
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I would bet a 200mm lens is not long enough for soccer photography. Olympic sized fields are HUGE (having played on a few of them... but not in the Olympics!) You could put a teleconverter on the camera (I assume both the Sony and Minolta support that? Anyone?) and that would help.

I agree that the wide end would get very little use. You might take a stadium shot, just showing the crowd and all... but mostly it will be the longer zoom and the action.

Eric
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Old Oct 11, 2003, 10:16 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eric s
I would bet a 200mm lens is not long enough for soccer photography.
You are probably right. You can adapt teleconverters for almost any camera but they usually reduce the speed, and it seems that is what is needed.

Might wait for the Panasonic FZ10 that is due out next month. It has an enormous lens diameter for a prosumer camera and maintains f2.8 all the way out to 12X. The stabilization wouldnít be much use for the moving players but might be useful otherwise.
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Old Oct 11, 2003, 11:24 AM   #6
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I think the FZ10 would be a great one to look at, once the jury has passed it's verdict on it. I have had excellent success with my camera and a FL-40 flash. Add a TCON 1.7x teleconverter to an 10x or 12x FAST lens (2.8 sounds wonderful, 3.5 is very good) at full telephoto for some really great upclose shots from the sidelines.
I'm not sure what slipe meant by IS not being useful for moving players, but my experience is that IS will allow you to shoot about 2 stops faster than you could with the same camera without IS. As action shots under stadium lighting are difficult at best, I'd personally stick with IS if it is available.
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Old Oct 11, 2003, 7:17 PM   #7
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first of all, thx for all the comments...

second, what about the sony 717? i've seen great action pictures from that camera, it also got 800 iso and its amazing in low light conditon, the only problem with that camera is the x5 zoom, but if I'm not wrong you can add another lens and it will be much better...

what do you think?
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Old Oct 11, 2003, 7:45 PM   #8
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i think your going to find adding a 1.7 converter is going to take closer to 2 stops off the lens and take quite a bit off the edge in the sharp image issue. i use a 1Ds with a canon 70-200 f2.8 IS lens and a canon 1.4x converter. that pulls 1 stop off the lens and relative sharpness is maintained. the 2x pulls 2 stops and starts to have issues in sharpness. these converters are designed for the lens. dropping on a conversion lens not designed for your particular optics is a crap shoot at best. questionable lightpath and different coatings can defeat thr quality of the original lens.
but then its all about expectations i guess.
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Old Oct 11, 2003, 8:11 PM   #9
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I believe the big difference between the fixed lens camera and the 1Ds is that the TC goes at the front of the zoom. Doesn't that change the equation? Having it between lens and body will throw out some light and magnify the center portion of what goes through the lens. How does it work when the TC is added on the front?

lg

What slipe means is that if the subject is moving, it doesn't matter if you can hand hold at 1/60th. Adding IS corrects for the cameras motion, not the subjects motion. Imagine taking the picture under amazing amounts light. If you chose to shoot at 1/60, you will get motion blur. Doesn't matter if you use IS because the subject will have moved a lot in 1/60th of a second.

Eric
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Old Oct 11, 2003, 9:34 PM   #10
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actually if you have a proper IS in some situations you can go as low as 1/20th/s w/o issues of shake. there are your extra relative f stops.

as far as front or back there will be losses. it will also depend on glass and coating qualities and of course optical interface quality. on any extender its the optical coupling that is most important.

put it on and set up a shot and photograph a wall with strong vertical and horizontal lines at various focal lengths and watch how the lines converge and diverge from edge to center to edge then flip it vertically and do it again. that will give you an idea of the distortion that is being imparted to your images. also your DOF will be reduced and focus will become more critical and possible slowed and may cause hunting.

if you can live with all the ill effects it can add then you have what you need.

telecons tend to converge in center where W/A adapters diverge in the center
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