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Old Nov 30, 2003, 2:43 AM   #11
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DAMN! Looks like I'm in for a big spend then . . .just like that feeling at the top of a cliff when ya darent look over the edge just in case this urge is gonna get the better of ya. . .. .. !

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Old Nov 30, 2003, 8:39 AM   #12
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Just a comment in regard to SJMS description of the "Well since you mentioned it in low light an amazing thing happens. The EVF autoswitches over to B/W and kicks up the gain a bit". There's another amazing feature on the A1/D7's when theses camera are put on manual: What You See Is What You Get!

... not only the camera's EVF will not autoswitch to B/W anymore but reflects exactly what is going to be recorded to the memory card as seen by the photographer: ie the camera is on full-stop down mode and the exposure in the viewfinder changes as the photographer changes the shutter speed or lens aperture on the camera when it's on manual. This feature is very handy for low-light shots such as the above sunrise/sunset, and beat the heck out of bracketing and constantly having to review the captured images as in a dSLR!

BTW try this WYSIWYG mode with the other EVF's handy feature: turn on its real-time floating histogram... It'll double the fun and useability... 8) 8) 8)
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Old Nov 30, 2003, 5:34 PM   #13
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Default Re: Great feedback, but...

Quote:
Originally Posted by ToddNorris
The comment about the stabilization not mattering with sports... I did not understand. Seems like it would make a difference. If it does not, them maybe the upgrade to the 750UZ is a good idea? The focus assist lamp is not that big a deal for me. It is nice and I do use it with the C2100, but it does not come into play in the sports I do.
My comment on stabilisation means that if you want take shots of sports action you normally have subjects fast moving. So you need to use fast shutter times (1/500, 1/1000 and more) to freeze the action. In these condition the fast shutter speed freeze the camera movement also. The stabilization is usefull with static subjects in low light: so you can use slow shutter speeds and shot with long tele hadsheld.
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Old Dec 2, 2003, 5:59 PM   #14
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Default Re: Minolta Dimage A1 or New Lumix (or Rebel)

So I look at spending a few more bucks on the Minolta Dimage A1. The 7x zoom is probably enough.

Your C2100 goes to an equivalent of 380mm but the 7x A1 lens only goes to an equivalent of 200mm. The 7x comes because the wide angle end extends down to 28mm against the 38mm of the C2100. This lack of tele sounds like it is important to you.

Have you thought about the Minolta Z1. Cheap and chearful 10x zoom, 3 mpixels and 10 frames/second. I bought one for my son and it puts my Sony 717 to shame for speed of focus and fast shooting. And its cheap as chips. Three for the price of one Drebel!
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Old Dec 2, 2003, 7:57 PM   #15
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but, if you read jeff Kellers comments you may not feel as keen on the Z1, unless he was given a didgy one to review .. .
Gosee at ;-
http://www.dcresource.com/reviews/mi...ew/index.shtml

HTH
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Old Dec 2, 2003, 8:01 PM   #16
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there i agree. the 2 cameras are way far apart. it's not in the same class.
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Old Dec 2, 2003, 8:27 PM   #17
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Todd, why not wait a few months, I reckon Canon MUST jump in soon with a 10x prozoomer, I pick a 'G6' or 'G10' (or 'A100' ?!) with their existing 10x offof the Toshi PDR-M700 on a G-sized body.

Mebbe also Olympus will stick the 10x lens off the C-750 onto the C-5060 for those of us who DONT want fiddly LITTLE cameras .. . then your decision will just be CF Vs xD & 4xAA Vs proprietory battery . .. bet ya life there WILL still be something frustrating on the wishlist!

Both will have the pull/flip viewscreen (on my wishlist anyway) just like the existing models . .. I find that tilt/twist-screen is far from being a novelty . .. one nice application is when taking 'people shots', folks dont get all coy & 'posed' looking when you seem to be looking down at your camera instead of pointing it at them .. .


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Old Dec 2, 2003, 8:37 PM   #18
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why does everyone have this thing for big zooms.
1- on all the others you loose the wide angle. no 28mm. they start of at 35mm which i used as a normal lens on my OM1 back in 1976. to most photographers the 35 barely classifies as a WA
2- the longer you go the slower it is. at that point you need to think of interchangable lenses to maintain a reasonable apeture.
3- most of these use a smaller imager too to get out that far with less actual glass. you gust end up loosing quality.
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Old Dec 2, 2003, 9:05 PM   #19
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Fair call there, but judging from your array of kit I'ld say that you likely shoot with/from a pretty high degree of discernment / experience / demand etc, whereas (speaking for my own end of the spectrum) lots of us will likely (& perhaps even deliberately) never get to a similar level of 'appreciation', nor want to have as large an investment in kit, or to carry a bag of lenses & 'stuff' around . .. we will gladly trade all that for the convenience of a single unit which will perform 'reasonably' over a range of userage . .. . this might also be covered by that aulde adage "If ignorance is bliss then tis folly to be wise"!

You very correctly & usefully point out the diminishing return from ultra-long zooms however ~ I'ld be happy to not go past past 7x max, so an A1 will likely find its way home to me if those two other wishlist models dont eventuate . .. I could live without many of the tricks bells & whistles on the A1, but hey it has my favourite feature ~ a tilt/twist LCD screen!

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Old Dec 2, 2003, 10:27 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjms
why does everyone have this thing for big zooms.
In my case, I bought a new camera BECAUSE of the long zoom...I'd otherwise still be using my 35-70mm SLR. I was going to just buy a new lens for my SLR with a longer zoom range, but then I decided why not buy a digital with the same zoom range that I was going to buy...anyway I can always attach a wide angle converter to my camera if I want more WA (which is rarely...I mostly use the tele end of my camera's zoom).
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