Go Back   Steve's Digicams Forums > Digicam Help > General Discussion

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old Jul 30, 2010, 1:27 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
Mark2009's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 275
Default Post Processing - which do you change most?

I was looking at the posting of pictures, and I see a lot of great shots, that seemed to be tweaked with post processing.

My question is are there generic changes that most do, sharpness, saturation, etc? Is it specific to every photo, or do most change these and others all the time?
Mark2009 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Old Jul 30, 2010, 3:22 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
frank-in-toronto's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Toronto Canada
Posts: 1,083
Default

Ok. I'll bite first. I use Irfanview to resize, add a small black border, increase contrast, sharpness and saturation. In the Irfanview options I make the last 3, plus 25. I don't know what it means but it doesn't seem too much. Before this step, I will have cropped to a 1.7 ratio usually cause I like 16:9. The odd time (very odd) I'll use Paint shop Pro to edit. Very seldom tho. I resize so the finished product is 1000 pixels wide. I know the rules for this forum suggest 1024, but really, does that fit on your monitor? It doesn't on mine.
frank-in-toronto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jul 30, 2010, 4:14 PM   #3
Moderator
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 8,529
Default

My processing varies by the shot. Most shots I do the following:
1) Crop
2) apply unsharp mask (although values are different depending on the subject)
3) Save

Now, on landscape type shots i'm prone to bump saturation or apply a velvia affect.
If I didn't get my exposure perfect I'll do a level's adjustment. If I didn't get WB the way I want it, I'll make that adjustment.

Other edits I might do: dodging/burning if people, and if close up some cosmetic improvements to skin.

I think those are the most common things that I do.
JohnG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jul 30, 2010, 4:35 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
Mark2009's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 275
Default

John,

When you say unsharp mask, what does that mean? I see people saying saturation to 30, hue to -9...would these be generic settings, or is it per individual picture. I was playing with a horse shot in a field, used this setting and saw the grass greener, etc...when I did the same to my a prom picture in my front yard, the wood chips were red'er, grass greener, but face color changed a bit...I am using Corel paint shop pro x2.
Mark2009 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jul 30, 2010, 5:05 PM   #5
Moderator
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 8,529
Default

Unsharp mask is a tool most photo editing packages have - it's used to sharpen photos but it gives you 3 parameters that allow you to control the affect.
JohnG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jul 30, 2010, 5:29 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Decatur, GA
Posts: 2,053
Default

My editing is usually to

1.) invert images from sideways to upright as needed
2.) fix the brightness of an image if needed and some cropping.

but most of the time since I shot fire-rescue type photos I try to keep them unedited and true to what I captured in case they are pulled for court etc.

dave
Photo 5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jul 30, 2010, 6:55 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
TCav's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Washington, DC, Metro Area, Maryland
Posts: 13,544
Default

I discovered this neat little tool in Nikon's ViewNX for removing purple fringing, so I use that regularly.

I'm also a big fan of the Shadows & Highlights, and the Levels tools in PSE, and use them selectively.

I also use PSE as well as MS Office Picture Manager to crop and/or resize.

That's usually the extent of my PPing efforts.
__________________
  • The lens is the thing.
  • 'Full Frame' is the new 'Medium Format'.
  • "One good test is worth a thousand expert opinions." - Tex Johnston, Boeing 707 test pilot.
TCav is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jul 30, 2010, 8:47 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
VTphotog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Extreme Northeastern Vermont, USA
Posts: 4,214
Default

Resizing tends to blur edges a bit, so I use unsharp mask to clean up from resizing. Other than that, I don't have any stock adjustments.

brian
VTphotog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Aug 2, 2010, 6:21 AM   #9
Senior Member
 
MartinSykes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Cheshire, UK
Posts: 854
Default

I think it changes a lot depending on the picture but generally:

1. Crop (no point editing stuff I don't want)
2. Adjust white balance if necessary
3. Denoise if it needs it
4. A gentle pseudo-HDR if I think it needs it, or a histogram adjustment (gamma, midtones etc.) and/or the clarify tool in Paintshop Pro. Something to balance the light/shadow as I want.
5. Maybe saturation adjustment but usually not.
6. Any rotation, perspective adjustment or other transformation.
7. Resize to final size
8. Unsharp mask (0.5 radius, strength 100, clip 5)
__________________
AutoHDR - Free HDR software for Windows at http://www.autohdr.co.uk on Facebook at http://www.facebook.com/home.php?sk=...36045126467361
My Flickr stream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/martinsykes
Panasonic DMC-FZ38, Sony ­α580
MartinSykes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Aug 3, 2010, 5:12 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
skylark's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 265
Default

My post processing usually goes like this:

1. Straighten if horizon is not level.

2. Crop 4:3 aspect to 3:2 aspect since my wife’s SD550 does not have a 3:2 aspect option. This is because my wife always wants 4x6 inch prints for her photo albums. My FZ50 has a 3:2 aspect option so no cropping is necessary unless I straightened the horizon or want to isolate a portion of the image (though I've shot in 4:3 aspect often too.)
3. Overall exposure and white balance adjustment using Photoshop levels “if needed”.
4. Gradient exposure adjustment for group flash photos where the back people are under exposed.

5. Remove red-eye when needed.
6. Sharpen photos using the High-Pass sharpening method. (Only for photos that I think would benefit from it since we’re mostly making 4x6 inch prints.)
7. I don’t resize unless I’m going to upload the photos using the internet where exact smaller size will save upload time. Most of the time I just bring the max size photos to Walgreens or Longs (CVS) and load the images really fast there.

Note:
In step-2, in the past I’ve only cropped the 4:3 aspect to 3:2 for photos that did not have ample room at the top and bottom which will be cropped off when making 4x6 inch prints. Otherwise I just left them in the 4:3 format.
--- From now on I decided to crop every 4:3 image to 3:2 because:

a) we always make 4x6 inch prints as I already mentioned.
b) 3:2 aspect images have a better width to height ratio for displaying slideshows on wide screen TV sets than 4:3 images do. We always had 4:3 aspect TV sets before but recently bought our first 16:9 aspect TV set.

Sky

Last edited by skylark; Aug 3, 2010 at 5:24 PM.
skylark is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 6:46 AM.