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Old Sep 18, 2010, 8:52 AM   #11
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There isn't a single, definitive answer, as it varies with the photographer, the camera, and the subject matter. And how much coffee you have been drinking.
Pictures of people who are naturally moving around are not likely to turn out sharp at less than 1/30s, no matter how good your IS, or how steady your hand. Posed shots, yes, if you have steady hands.
Some of the tests I have seen done of IS systems assume that a certain percentage of shots are going to be bad anyway, and rate the IS system as being good for a certain number of stops. If you are OK with that uncertainty, then fire away at 1/4s or less.

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Old Sep 19, 2010, 10:27 AM   #12
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Very specific as already stated to the lens, FL, subject and operator.
The best I have done is a 200 2.0 IS on at 1/25. I normally try to follow the 1/FL rule as closely as possible. I am not the steadiest hand either.
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Old Sep 19, 2010, 12:38 PM   #13
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It is preferable to use Program-Shift and get a shutter speed that is hand hold able for sure, if you value sharpness. Personally I value sharpness much more than testing my ability to be rock still.

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Old Sep 19, 2010, 6:09 PM   #14
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What do you mean by program-shift? When I am in P mode, it sometimes seems to pick shutter speeds slower than 1/60. I'll have to double check to see if the aperture was as open as it can be, but I swear it was. Maybe not though.
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Old Sep 19, 2010, 7:16 PM   #15
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Some DSLR camera have an option, called Program-Shift, that allows you to easily select a higher shutter speed. if that feature is lacking just switch the Mode selector to Shutter Preference and select 1/60th as your minimum shutter speed. That will also work.

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Old Sep 20, 2010, 3:22 AM   #16
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I never thought of that but that might be a good idea to use TV mode and set it to 1/60. After looking at a lot of these pictures that were taken at 1/30 or 1/40, while I may have held it steady, if the subject wasn't really still I notice a little blur in it. Oh well, I guess I will just learn from that then. I might start using the flash more too indoors because the ones that I tried with the flash look better than some of the ones without it.
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Old Sep 20, 2010, 6:02 AM   #17
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Yes. There are two kinds of motion blur. There's motion blur due to camera shake, that image stabilization can do something about, and there's motion blur due to subject movement, which you can't control. All you can do is use a shutter speed that's fast enough to prevent it.
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Old Sep 20, 2010, 8:50 AM   #18
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I always shoot full manual, if its a static subject that wont move I try and follow the 1/FL rule, if its moving I try and go a minimum of 1/600 on the shutter and adjust every thing else to compensate for the desired shutter speed. 1/60 is OK for static subjects but the minute they move even slightly you get motion blur.
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Old Sep 20, 2010, 12:04 PM   #19
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Thanks for that mimimum speed suggestion for moving subjects. If I use the flash, doesn't it typically set the shutter speed to 1/60? If I use an external flash, can I have a faster shutter speed than the 1/60 (which would be useful if maybe a child was running around indoors in low light)?
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Old Sep 20, 2010, 12:29 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dj76 View Post
Thanks for that mimimum speed suggestion for moving subjects. If I use the flash, doesn't it typically set the shutter speed to 1/60? If I use an external flash, can I have a faster shutter speed than the 1/60 (which would be useful if maybe a child was running around indoors in low light)?
This is something very different, as long as you are not exposing for the ambient light, then you can use the flash to freeze the subject. Most cameras have a flash sync speed of about 1/200s (if it is faster not all the frame is exposed) so you can't freeze action (generally) at that speed. By under exposing a couple of stops to the ambient light and then using the flash to expose the subject you can get great results. It's possible to go right down to even 1/8s (as an example) to bring some ambient lighting in and then freeze with the shutter...... just depends on the situation.

When doing this sort of flash shooting make sure you are in manual mode for exposure (apart from the flash) so you are setting what you desire.

Check out post #6 of this thread as it should give some background to the working of flash. http://forums.steves-digicams.com/pa...or-photos.html
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