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Old Jan 8, 2006, 12:26 PM   #1
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[align=center]I have the olympus c765 ultra zoom which has 10x zoom .i have been told that if i turn flash off and put on sports-3 exposuresetting then i will get results .i do get some good photos butabout half are blurred .[/align]


[align=center]The camera has manual settings too.What settingsshould i usefor indoor arena concerts[/align]


[align=center]please help if you have the camera can you email me some photos taken at concerts with settings used thankyou[/align]


[align=center]http://www.steves-digicams.com/2004_reviews/c765uz.html[/align]
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Old Jan 9, 2006, 12:18 PM   #2
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ANYONE ?
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Old Jan 9, 2006, 2:50 PM   #3
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Manual settings will not really help as in low light you're probably using the maximum aperture anyway. Set the ISO to 400 and use program AE to set the faster shutter speed it will allow. Resting your camera on the seat back may help reduce camera shake.
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Old Jan 9, 2006, 5:27 PM   #4
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Set your ISO as high as possible and your aperture as wide as possible, and hope for the best!

-- Terry
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Old Jan 10, 2006, 2:05 PM   #5
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Im new to manual settings what is the widest apature , and i cant rest the camera on seat as i will just get the backs of people lol.

The concerts i goto are pop concerts with my daughter .

These are a few on sports setting.

As i say i get loads of blurred photos.not posted them.

These were all taken with sports and no flash excuse the writing but my friends and i put them on sites and swap photos.



















not up to the standards of your photos i know



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Old Jan 10, 2006, 3:02 PM   #6
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I have the Fuji S5200, the lens is almost identical the 765uz, except it's 1/3 stop faster at full-zoom.

Depending on whether you can seat down on a chair, if you can can get shutter speed over 1/125s, you would not need a tripod to prevent camera shake while seating down. If you can't it's best to bring a mini-tripod or monopod.

If you can't find a seat, and can't use a tripod, your best bet would be find a wall or railing to lean against.

For exposure, I would use spot metering, iso400, lock aperture at f3.7 in full-zoom. Not sure if the UZ has exposure indicator, but if you cannot get a shutter speed of at least 1/100s, trying underexposing by 1/3 or 2/3 stop, you can always brighten it up later on, a blur shot is a goner for sure, no post-processing can bring it back.

for focusing, it looks like the performer from your samples do not move around too much, I would pre-focus, then lock the focus by switching to manual focus.

It also helps to shoot in burst mode, you will get more keepers this way.

curtis



kiansbird wrote:
Quote:
[align=center]I have the olympus c765 ultra zoom which has 10x zoom .i have been told that if i turn flash off and put on sports-3 exposuresetting then i will get results .i do get some good photos butabout half are blurred .[/align]


[align=center]The camera has manual settings too.What settingsshould i usefor indoor arena concerts[/align]


[align=center]please help if you have the camera can you email me some photos taken at concerts with settings used thankyou[/align]


[align=center]http://www.steves-digicams.com/2004_reviews/c765uz.html[/align]
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Old Jan 11, 2006, 3:38 AM   #7
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curtisfun wrote:
Quote:
I have the Fuji S5200, the lens is almost identical the 765uz, except it's 1/3 stop faster at full-zoom.

Depending on whether you can seat down on a chair, if you can can get shutter speed over 1/125s, you would not need a tripod to prevent camera shake while seating down. If you can't it's best to bring a mini-tripod or monopod.

If you can't find a seat, and can't use a tripod, your best bet would be find a wall or railing to lean against.

For exposure, I would use spot metering, iso400, lock aperture at f3.7 in full-zoom. Not sure if the UZ has exposure indicator, but if you cannot get a shutter speed of at least 1/100s, trying underexposing by 1/3 or 2/3 stop, you can always brighten it up later on, a blur shot is a goner for sure, no post-processing can bring it back.

for focusing, it looks like the performer from your samples do not move around too much, I would pre-focus, then lock the focus by switching to manual focus.

It also helps to shoot in burst mode, you will get more keepers this way.

curtis



kiansbird wrote:
Quote:
[align=center]I have the olympus c765 ultra zoom which has 10x zoom .i have been told that if i turn flash off and put on sports-3 exposuresetting then i will get results .i do get some good photos butabout half are blurred .[/align]



[align=center]The camera has manual settings too.What settingsshould i usefor indoor arena concerts[/align]



[align=center]please help if you have the camera can you email me some photos taken at concerts with settings used thankyou[/align]



[align=center]http://www.steves-digicams.com/2004_reviews/c765uz.html[/align]
Quote:
thanks for the info some of the shots weredancing shots i do get some infocus shots but loads of blurs my camera can set from 1 to 1/0000 but to be honest this means nothing to me.
Quote:
also what dies the f3.7 do.
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Old Jan 11, 2006, 3:42 AM   #8
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Quote:
thanks for the info some of the shots weredancing shots i do get some infocus shots but loads of blurs my camera can set from 1 to 1/0000 but to be honest this means nothing to me.
Quote:
also what dies the f3.7 do.
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Old Jan 11, 2006, 12:06 PM   #9
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f3.7 is the max aperture at full-zoom for the c765, if you don't have to employ maximum zoom at the concert, the max aperture may be different.

I am not sure if the c765 has a exposure indicator, but on the S5200, when I shoot in manual, there is an indicator that shows me the recommended shutter speed of a given aperture for the scene I am shooting. If the shutter speed the camera suggested is too slow, I usually will bump it down 1/3 to 1-fstop to get a faster shutter speed. The image will be underexposed a bit, but can be brighten back up again in post-processing.

Basically, blurring is caused by only three things – wrong focus, camera shake, subject movement.

Since the c765 has manual focus, use it! What you need to do is to zoom all the way in to the subject, pre-focus using auto-focus mode, then lock the focus by switching to manual focus. Now the subject will always be in focus no matter what focal length you are at, you can zoom in and out anyway you like and take sharp focused images as long as the subject does not move too close or too far back.

For camera shake, if you are shooting at full wide angle, you can avoid camera shake at around 1/30s shutterspeed, but it would be hard to freeze subject movement, so it would be wise to keep a minimum of 1/80s and higher, the higher the better.

If you are shooting at mid-zoom, the focal length would be around 150mm, that would mean you need around 1/150s shutter speed to avoid handheld camera shake. Of course, if you can find some support, such as a wall or railing, you can easily gain a f-stop or more and avoid camera shake to around 1/75s.

At full-telephoto, with focal length of 380mm, you would need 1/380s shutter speed to avoid camera shake, but if you have steady hands, you can usually get by with shutter speed of 1/250s. With a wall or railing for support, 1/160s is easily doable. If you are seating down, you can steady your camera even further.

curtis
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Old Jan 15, 2006, 12:19 PM   #10
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Thanks
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