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Old Feb 25, 2006, 10:53 AM   #1
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Any tips on getting better "eyes open" pictures? Seems alot of the portrait type the subject always has their eyes shut. My flash is not preflashing (that I can see) Sony hvl f 32x mode b)



Thsnks for your time
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Old Feb 25, 2006, 11:43 AM   #2
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Again, bouncing the flash (your flash has this ability) or attaching a diffuser will lessen the harshness of the flash and reduce the chances of the subject looking away. You could also direct the subject to look at something else (a raised hand, the tripod, your hat, etc) rather than looking directly at the camera.
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Old Feb 25, 2006, 11:54 AM   #3
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dashboardgyno wrote:
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Any tips on getting better "eyes open" pictures? Seems alot of the portrait type the subject always has their eyes shut. My flash is not preflashing (that I can see) Sony hvl f 32x mode b)
I don't know what "mode b" is supposed to be. But, it's my understanding that you will have a preflash from this strobe (unless you can set it to full manual for control of it's output power).

I've seen it's preflash discussed on other forums for users needing to trigger strobes that won't work with a preflash (because unless a slave trigger is "digital aware", it's going to trigger on the preflashes instead of the main flash).

Most Digital cameras use a preflash to help gauge exposure, since the sensors are too reflective for metering from during a flash exposure (like you could do with off the film metering).

It's just so short, with so little delay between the preflash and main lfash (usually around 100ms), that most people won't notice it.

A small precentage of the population will always blink in some conditions when they see a preflash though.

I've got a niece that does (but, only in darker conditions). If you have better lighting, this can help if you have a subject that is sensitive to a preflash.

Another alternative is to use a strobe with a built in sensor that measures reflected light during the exposure. The Metz 54MZ series (54MZ3, 54MZ4) strobes have an auto mode that can work this way, and they have dedicated modules (the flash foot) that can "talk" to a camera so that the strobe knows the aperture and iSO speed being used for many popular cameras.

You can also use a non-dedicated auto thrysistor flash with a built in sensor, setting the flash to the best auto aperture range for the distances you want to shoot at, using the camera in manual exposre mode, with the same settings for aperture and ISO speed. The strobe then measures the reflected light during the flash exposure, terminating the flash burst when it sees enough for the auto range being used. Make sure your camera's trigger voltage limits support this type of solution, as some older strobes can have very high trigger voltages.


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Old Feb 25, 2006, 11:22 PM   #4
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Hello,

Mode B on the Sony Flash, is suppossed to be TTL and Mode A uses the preflash to guage available light etc. There is the manual mode as well...I am confident that my subjects eyes are closed due to bad luck, not a preflash... and I thougth their might be a tactic or technique that you may use to prevent it. (like counting since the last blink)

But then you opened up a can or worms Jim C.. about measuring trigger voltage and such... How do I measure it. I couldn't find it on the site that you sent to me when I asked the question a week ago or so... My hot shoe has 5 connectors. one big one in the centre, and 4 little ones around it ...I tried with a multi meter and I couldn't get any combination to register. I also used my ACC port cable ( i have an extra....and ACC is Sony's version of the PC connection for those that didn't know) and measure the wires from that cable as well..and still couldn't get anything. Is it too fast for my multi meter? Any suggestions. Ideally I want to convert my Lanc cable to a Pc cable for my studio strobes. I have a radio transmitter (like PC/ hotshoe adapter I guess) and it doesn't work, so I am sending it back, just in case it isn't me.. Once I get the new one, it will either confirm my conclusion that my camera just isn't compatible with that PC connection or it is, and all is well. Did I loose anyone yet?

Thanks for your time, sorry to get off topic!!


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Old Feb 26, 2006, 12:00 AM   #5
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I was wrong.... I didn't dig deep enough. From what I've been able to find out, mode B on your flash does not require a preflash. I should update the post someone had on another forum about not being able to trigger slaves with it due to a preflash.

Your flash has it's own sensor built in (just like an old auto thyristor flash) that it uses to measure reflected lighting during the exposure when in Mode B.

If you look at your manual, you'll see it identified as the "Light Exposure Meter" in the parts diagram.

As for measuring trigger voltage, if the input impedence is too low on the meter, it will register the voltage as too low.

I've got a cheap multi-meter that behaves the same way (doesn't register anything on some strobes I just got). But, I'm confused on how you're measuring it. You have to measure the strobe, versus the hotshoe.

Here is a page on measuring trigger voltages:

http://www.botzilla.com/photo/g1strobe.html

I'll find the information I mentioned to you in another post about the SCR used in the DSC-F828 (with someone indicating that it should be OK to use strobes up to 400 volts) and send it to you via PM. Then, you can make up your own mind if it's a valid conclusion or not.

As for the blinks.... One solution I've seen tried before with cameras that have a preflash is to turn on redeye reduction mode. They may blink when they see it, but not blink for the main flash.

That is odd that someone would blink without a preflash, though. I can understand it happening from time to time (everyone blinks).

But, if someone blinks consistently when you take a flash photo, then perhaps they are anticipating the flash (subconciously watching for you to depress the shutter button or something to that effect).

That would be my best theory anyway, since you shouldn't have any mirror noise to contend with using a non-DSLR model that they may be able to react fast enough to.

Edit: I sent you a PM with information on the SCR reportedly used in the DSC-F828, according to someone that appears to have access to it's service manual. You'll have to judge for yourself if it's valid or not.

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Old Feb 26, 2006, 6:48 AM   #6
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How about shooting in burst mode?.. They have to open sooner or later.. lol.. That way you can pick the best shot out of the bunch.
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Old Feb 26, 2006, 9:40 AM   #7
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vwmom wrote:
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How about shooting in burst mode?.. They have to open sooner or later.. lol.. That way you can pick the best shot out of the bunch.
The problem with shooting in burst mode, is the flash doesn't recycle fast enough. The first pic will be exposed correctly, and the followingimages will be underexposed until the flash recharges (about a second or two for flash mentioned) Also, lots of repeated flashes in a short period of time can lead to burning out the flash head, as the heat doesn't have time to dissipate.
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Old Feb 26, 2006, 12:21 PM   #8
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Duh.. Didn't think of that.. sorry.
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