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Old Jan 20, 2010, 2:38 PM   #11
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understandable.
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Old Jan 20, 2010, 7:40 PM   #12
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I usually set my exposures manually...either 5 shots (-2, -1, 0, +1, +2) or 3 shots (-2, 0, +2). I shoot with the 5D Mk II, always with a tripod and generally with a wired remote trigger.
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Old Jan 21, 2010, 7:57 AM   #13
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I usually set my exposures manually...either 5 shots (-2, -1, 0, +1, +2) or 3 shots (-2, 0, +2). I shoot with the 5D Mk II, always with a tripod and generally with a wired remote trigger.
Until now I've always used auto-bracketing, where only 3 shots come out - I think I'll try it manually to get more exposures. Thank's Walter
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Old Jan 21, 2010, 8:28 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Bynx View Post
I hope you can understand this because Im not sure if I do. My camera (Fuji S700) has 8 fstop choices and 36 shutterspeed choices per fstop. When I have determined the correct setting for my average shot I then manually over and under expose each shot in 3 click intervals of the shutter speed. I do this until I cover the range of the photo. I may be wrong but I feel 3 shots are usually never enough and more like 6 or 7 is common. Auto bracketing just doesnt cover the range in my opinion. I would really like to try shooting in RAW and using that file to do the HDR. That way I would be able to get people or moving objects as HDR instead of just buildings and trees. Id really appreciate it if someone could make available a RAW file of a scene with movement like people or traffic that I could try HDR with. Id like to see the difference. Thanking that someone in advance.
Bynx, if you havenít received any RAW files yet, I'm not sure if any of these would be to your liking but I uploaded them to my (free) Microsoft Skydrive account which I think anyone should be able to access. I included the links below. They were taken last night and early this morning so LMK if the lighting is no good the people and traffic might be too blurred I'll try to shoot some NYC street scenes at around noon when it's brighter.

Hey, no thanks necessary. You've given so much to the community already it's about time someone does you something. This what I'm doing is nothing.


http://cid-7e695c2c0dde32eb.skydrive...c/DSC01924.ARW


http://cid-7e695c2c0dde32eb.skydrive...c/DSC01957.ARW


http://cid-7e695c2c0dde32eb.skydrive...c/DSC01967.ARW
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Old Jan 21, 2010, 11:07 AM   #15
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... Auto bracketing just doesnt cover the range in my opinion...
This may be true with some cameras, but certainly not with all. Personally i am deep into HDR and I use Auto-Bracket all the time. I was kind of short on range of values with my old LUMIX FZ-28 which only had 3 brackets to offer. But I managed by using the Exposure Compensation (EC) in addition.

The camera I have now - LUMIX G1 - is a dream for any HDR-ethusiast. It has the choice of either 3 - 5 or 7 shots in bracket-function. In each of these functions you may use either 1/3rd EV or 2/3rd EV's apart, giving me an enourmouse amount of range.

[3•1/3] (3 pictures)
[3•2/3] (3 pictures)
[5•1/3] (5 pictures)
[5•2/3] (5 pictures)
[7•1/3] (7 pictures)
[7•2/3] (7 pictures)

On top of that I regularly use my EC which can give me up to minus or pluss 3 whole EV's in 1/3rd stops increment.

One of the main-advantages of using AB is that all the 5 pictures are taken within 2-3 seconds, minimizing the chance to get ghosting artifacts on moving parts of the motive. Anyway, you may look forward to when you get your G1, Bynx - because it is made for the type of shooting we do!

My settings on the LUMIX G1:
I usually use 5 shots with 2/3rd apart. Really complicated pictures with lots of contrast, I go with 7 pic @ 2/3rd EV apart.

Picture1 = 5 shots with 2/3rd EV apart.
Picture2 = 7 shots with 2/3rd EV apart.
And, remember. I can use (and often do) Exposure Compensation in addition to the above, to give me an even wider range of values.
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Last edited by Walter_S; Jan 21, 2010 at 12:54 PM.
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Old Jan 21, 2010, 11:51 AM   #16
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Canon owner here, I pick my F-stop and set my camera to auto bracket 0, -2, +2
I also shoot everything in Raw

Check out some of my work not all is HDR but look through my pages youll see them.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/memoriesremain/
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Old Jan 21, 2010, 12:05 PM   #17
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Well Walter, the G1 sure does have all the bells and whistles Im looking for. Id prefer to use auto bracket and if I had the range coverage you have I would use it. Thanks for the info.
Geminichild, if you shoot in RAW why do you need to auto bracket your shots? I thought that RAW covered the range. I wish I knew more about RAW files.
VV thanks so much for stepping up to the plate and making those RAW files available. I will be playing with them for a while now.

Last edited by Bynx; Jan 21, 2010 at 12:09 PM.
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Old Jan 21, 2010, 12:12 PM   #18
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Well Walter, the G1 sure does have all the bells and whistles Im looking for. Id prefer to use auto bracket and if I had the range coverage you have I would use it. Thanks for the info.
Geminichild, if you shoot in RAW why do you need to auto bracket your shots? I thought that RAW covered the range. I wish I knew more about RAW files.
VV thanks so much for stepping up to the plate and making those RAW files available. I will be playing with them for a while now.
to get the 3 shots of different exposures you still have to bracket your 3 or more shots, even when shooting RAW.

RAW gives you some latitude to "Fake" an HDR by procesing 1 RAW file 3 different ways, at like -1,0,1, but that latitude isn't all that large and you are still limted to the sensor DR, will have some noise in shadows, etc.
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Old Jan 21, 2010, 1:06 PM   #19
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I agree about shooting raw - you do get more latitude shooting raw, but it has it's limitations. I once took a significantly over-exposed shot and managed to get it looking normal, but it wasn't a high dynamic range scene and had nothing that was blown out. For most high dynamic scenes, even with raw, some parts are blown out and you can't recover from the clipping. Some cameras have more latitude than others, but bracketing is still necessary. Also, if the original is underexposed at all, you'd still be introducing extra noise when you "push" the picture to recover detail in the shadows.

I use a camera with 3 or 5 frames for auto bracketing that can do a full 2 stops between frames. I always use 5 frames, with the two stops (-4, -2, 0, +2, +4) and have had better results with this. I do review the set to make sure I don't have blown out highlights in the darkest exposure so that I can take anything additional.
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Old Jan 21, 2010, 1:50 PM   #20
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The point may now be moot based on what Hards80 said nevertheless I added one more :


http://cid-7e695c2c0dde32eb.skydrive...c/DSC02006.ARW
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