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Old Feb 2, 2012, 9:16 AM   #11
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I love back-lit flowers, which is one of the things that attracted me to this one. But if it's the sun that's back-lighting it, you have too much dynamic range and lose the detail where the flower is too dense. In this case, I'll either try to lighten the shadows (which can work sometimes), exposure bracket like here or else give up entirely. Photomatix Pro does a good job aligning hand-held shots of things that don't move. It can do a reasonable job with it's semi-automatic mode, where you can circle those areas that have ghosting and the program will try to limit it. If the ghosting is small, it does a reasonable job with it (I took some photos at a car show with people that moved, it did a pretty good job with that), but it's not as good with parts of something, like part of a petal. I haven't had good results when it's a bit breezy and the flowers are moving.
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Old Feb 2, 2012, 9:52 AM   #12
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Third option is to do a pseudo-HDR from a single shot if you haven't significantly clipped the highlights (which is the case here) which removes all of the alignment issues even on windy days. I had a go with the middle jpeg below but if you've shot raw you could get even better results.

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Old Feb 2, 2012, 10:18 AM   #13
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Thanks for the info about Photomatix's semi-auto alignment tool. I didn't know it had it. The reason I'm using Dynamic Photo HDR is (besides the lower price) its anti-ghosting tool and pin warping. I will have to revisit Photomatix.
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Old Feb 2, 2012, 9:32 PM   #14
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Martin - I actually did take the 1 stop underexposed frame and lightened selected shadows using Nik's Viveza with some success - my camera allows a lot of latitude with shadows, not much with highlights. Not all cameras allow that - I also have a camera where the shadows quickly become noisy when lightened. However, in this case I preferred the Photomatix version (not always the case!).
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Old Feb 3, 2012, 2:03 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtngal View Post
Martin - I actually did take the 1 stop underexposed frame and lightened selected shadows using Nik's Viveza with some success - my camera allows a lot of latitude with shadows, not much with highlights. Not all cameras allow that - I also have a camera where the shadows quickly become noisy when lightened. However, in this case I preferred the Photomatix version (not always the case!).
Not sure what Viveza does but you could still use Photomatix on your middle shot alone if you used raw and then created the 3 exposures from that instead of using 3 real exposures. That should give you practically the same result but with no need to worry about alignment or ghosting issues so it would work just as well when there is a breeze. If the scene has a really wide range then you'll still need multiple shots but the range in a single shot on your K5 is as good as the range from a set of bracketed shots on some older cameras.
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