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Old Mar 15, 2009, 7:30 PM   #11
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I do not know which is better, I have not kept track of the ones used here. More expensive NLE I have not kept track of for a while I might be able to help, just old information on common problems in transcoding to look out for.
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Old Apr 25, 2011, 3:47 PM   #12
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Default The answer

Lots of theories and guesses here, many partially correct.
I've only recently had to learn some of this stuff and still learning (so don't take my word for everything here - do your own research) to burn DVD's for a local performance troupe and I get better results by setting the Aiptek V5VP at 720p, not at 1080p and my other cheap camcorder - a Megxon - only does up to 720p but a much better job on colors than the Aiptek with smoother motion - almost film like. Another problem with Aiptek is it's CCD over-emphasizes some colors which however can be corrected with a video editor (see below)
ALL digital camcorders, especially noticeable at 1080p on the Aipteks, interlace the lines in the frames (actually producing half frames). This is 30's technology designed for the old non-HD TV sets which scan the electron beam on alternate lines in the cathode ray tube (CRT). So the 60 fps actually ends up as 30 fps [I think :-) ]
If you want a camcorder that does not do this like the major studios use, you're looking at tens of thousands of dollars worth of equipment. The filmmaker schools like ZGI use Sony or Panasonic professional-type cameras that can be switched between interlaced and progressive (like film) and the videos are usually recorded on DV tape cartridges - edited with expensive computer programs (several hundred dollars) like Final Cut (Mac only) or Sony Vegas (PC and maybe Mac also). This problem is rarely that noticeable on family-type videos and DVD's until you have some motion in the video and the choppiness, sawtooths, etc. show up then.
A good fairly complete explanation of this and what to do about it can be found at http://www.100fps.com This is a 25 page treatise on the subject.
You CAN de-interlace using one of several methods, each of which has different pros and cons. The author recommends the use of 3 separate FREE downloadable programs. Some relatively cheap editors like Corel and Movavi Video Suite have deinterlacing features but are usually blending, interpolating, etc. which work OK for the typical family video, but not for something produced professionally. If doing something for a DVD, try experimenting with different bit rates, resizing, etc. to get the best results.
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