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Old Dec 23, 2007, 3:08 PM   #11
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Thanks Warload and sgspirit.

In regards to the 12v car adapter, that is great info. I have a Belkin USB Car Adapter sitting aroundthat has a slot for a fuse. I am going to swap the current fuse out for one rated at 2 amps and try it again. This is with the assumption that a normal mini-USB cord will carry that type ofcharge to the camera. If not, I will pick-up that 3-in-1 PSP USB Charger that you linked. It seems like that choice is less expense and more versatile than the Aiptek one, and I have not yet confirmed the Aiptek actually carries a 2 amp (vs .5) source.

I want to use the 12v car charger in order toreview video already shot when out-and-about or on road trips (rather than wasting battery time) and possible on-road video (deleting out the sound for soundtrack wavs, of course, giving the volume struggles this camera has when the dbs are past a certain level).

In regards to clone batteries, unfortunately I am already all-in on the bet but I only wagered a total of $38 bucks for 6 batteries (vs $47+ for 3 from Aiptek - 13*3+Shipping/Tax). Because of even the remote chance of recording my games from start-to-finish is key for me, and because I am talking a trip to New Orleans and need a lot of batteries quickly, I am hoping this will work out, even if just for the short-term. I bought from two different places (not eBay but probably similar stores) so I am hedging that probably one of the two places sell crap batteries, but that the other will be decent. Once I get them, I will round-robin charge 3 of them (Usance, SunTekStore.com, Power101.com) so that they all will get equal action and keep the stats of each battery. I have had clone batteries disappoint me before similar to what you described, so I'm realistic about my odds. And I do have to say that I have been getting more time out of the stock battery than I was quoted and have been pleasantly surprised.
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Old Dec 30, 2007, 10:08 AM   #12
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Just want to stress to all reading: the bigger the mAh number, the better.

My A-HD came with an NP-60 rated at 1000mAh. A mAH is a 'milliamp hour', and a thousand milliamps is the same as saying 1 amp (or 1 ampere).

One tiny milliamp hour is the amount of charge that is removed after drawing 1 milliamp of current for 1 hour. The A-HD battery is rated at 1000 milliamp hours, so if the camera only drew 20 milliamps, the battery would last for 50 hours. That's not going to happen with the LCD screen (but closing the screen once you begin recording will prolong battery life). The A-HD battery lasts, give or take, for an hour ...so it's drawing 1 amp for that one hour at 3.7 volts.

On the same scale: if the 1000mAh battery lasts an hour, a 1400mAh battery would last 1.4 hours (84 minutes). But the web is full of 900mAh NP-60 batteries which would only last for 90% of the time your 1000mAh one would last. And at a local Ritz Camera, I saw ones that were only 650mAh (AVOID AVOID!!!) - although their website is selling 1050mAh ones for US$13.39.

That eBay seller in Canada, offerng two 1400mAH batteries and a charger for $20 total ($10 sale, $10 shipping) looks better all the time!

And small-number mAh batteries start to 'flake' sooner. Which means more frustration.

So pay close attention to the mAh number. Bigger is better.
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Old Dec 31, 2007, 12:13 AM   #13
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http://forums.steves-digicams.com/fo...mp;forum_id=92

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Old Sep 9, 2008, 9:34 AM   #14
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So I wanted this to work in my car, I have an A-HD, and wanted to use it on the race track to record my sessions.

Long story short, I bought the 12v adaptor from Aiptek, and it doesn't work either, the camera still powers down but still charges.

So after doing some digging I found the issue, the wall charger that came with the camera supplies power to the camera on a different set of pins then the standard specifies.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB

So the USB standard specifies power on pins 1 & 5 for mini USB, but Aiptek provides power from the wall charger on pins 4 & 5.

So your thinking to yourself, I'll just get another USB cable cut it open and provide power on pins 4 & 5 ... FAILURE - because on mini USB pin 4 is not connected so it appears that most of the mini USB cables don't even have a wire for pin 4.

My solution was to cut the mini usb cable off of the wall adaptor and then splice it on to a regular Type A end off of another USB cable.

This works fine now.

Why did Aiptek design it this way? My guess is because the camera requires more aperage to run and charge the battery then the USB standard specifies. So to be compliant with the spec they designed it this way so you could only run and charge the camera with a non-standard wall adaptor.

So I tested my new cable out with a regular USB adaptor for a blackberry and it seemed to charge and run the camera at the same time.

Next step is to get some USB sockets for my car.
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Old Mar 9, 2009, 5:12 AM   #15
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@celer
I had a similar reason (in-car use) but went for a cheaper version of aiptek, namely digilife dvv-3 (same battery, np-60).
There seems to be a similar issue regarding the power supply. The wall charger has a mini-usb type-B plug, with (+) connected to 1st and 4th pin and (-) to 5th and shielding (this is at least what the diagram on the charger shows). After trying a few 12V lighter-usb adaptors (didn't work because of different pinout, as it later transpired) and one inverter (it was a fancy small black&decker, but I don't remember its amps - dint't work either) I asked the nearby garage to make it work. To my dismay, all they could do was to cut the usb plug off the wall charger cord and solder it to a 12V lighter powered DC adaptor (set at 6V with 1500mAs). It does charge, but it can't work in any other mode, renedering the whole thing completely useless... Now, since the cord has been cut anyway and I can experiment with other adaptors, is the amps that matter? Warlord mentioned 2A is a must, so what is your amperage? I'm thinking of trying and checking some more powerful adaptors/inverters, but I'd like to know which level to start from?
By the way, is there any way to bypass the usb socket and, e.g. wire the DC power directly to the battery connectors? There are three connectors: (+), (-), and (T). What is the (T) for? Has anyone tried this?
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Old Mar 9, 2009, 2:33 PM   #16
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What I did was used the AC adaptet left ample cord, and attached a 12vdc plug done, all works fine

1. 12vdc @5.0vdc, any cell phone charger, or even a multi charger 12vdc and choose 3.0-6.0 any higher you'll pixalate the screen.

USB does not have the bypas, there is a pin config, I do not know it , it's posted a simple loop.

2. you have full control of the cam. if needed to use ac adp all one needs to do is rewire.

3 if one is handy they can somehow wire the 12vdc adp to the ac just be careful notto plug both in
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Old Mar 10, 2009, 3:34 AM   #17
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fishycomics wrote:
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1. 12vdc @5.0vdc, any cell phone charger, or even a multi charger 12vdc and choose 3.0-6.0¬* any higher you'll pixalate the screen.
Do you mean literally ANY charger @5V will work (regardless of the amperage)??? My problem is that I seem to be using a config that fits your description and all I can do is to charge. A funny thing happens though when I turn the camera on - the battery level symbol drops from full to half in two seconds and in another two seconds to empty (red), so after 5 seconds the whole thing is down. Also, the moment I turn the camera on, the external LED (red when charging/green when operating) is immediately out. I attach the specs scanned from the wall plug and the car adaptor (I use it @6V).
Just to make it clear - my camera (digilife dvv-3) may be different from yours, but both the battery type (fuji np-60) and the wall supply usb pinout seem the same, and so does the problem. Maybe I should make it a separate topic?
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Old Mar 10, 2009, 4:33 AM   #18
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I also have made a battery block resembles the battery and use a multi charger 1-12 vdc.

And I used the GVS with a cell phone charger (mentioned above post)

I can not use thegvs plug to work the GPS a navigation system, but I can use the navigation systems plug to only charge the cam not work the cam.

I am sure using the supplied ac adapter you can get he cam to work, unless specified that the cam does not charge in the unit. if it does not charge in the unit. like hte Aiptek IS-DV then it will not work

and that was why I made a block looking like a battery





holdenhk wrote:
Quote:
fishycomics wrote:
Quote:
1. 12vdc @5.0vdc, any cell phone charger, or even a multi charger 12vdc and choose 3.0-6.0 any higher you'll pixalate the screen.
Do you mean literally ANY charger @5V will work (regardless of the amperage)??? My problem is that I seem to be using a config that fits your description and all I can do is to charge. A funny thing happens though when I turn the camera on - the battery level symbol drops from full to half in two seconds and in another two seconds to empty (red), so after 5 seconds the whole thing is down. Also, the moment I turn the camera on, the external LED (red when charging/green when operating) is immediately out. I attach the specs scanned from the wall plug and the car adaptor (I use it @6V).
Just to make it clear - my camera (digilife dvv-3) may be different from yours, but both the battery type (fuji np-60) and the wall supply usb pinout seem the same, and so does the problem. Maybe I should make it a separate topic?
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Old Mar 10, 2009, 5:23 AM   #19
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fishycomics wrote:
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I also¬* have made¬* a battery block resembles the battery and use a multi charger 1-12 vdc.
This seems to be what I meant by bypassing the in-camera usb socket and wiring the dc directly to the battery pins inside the camera (by the way, do you supply 5V or less thru this block?). Is this what you mean by the battery block? If so, could you tell me what exactly you did (maybe some pics)? I know I can experiment myself, but I don't want to take unnecessary risk if someone has already tested that and knows how to do it the right way.
Also, I just rewired a common low-amp 12VDC lighter-to-usb converter, and it does charge (and nothing else), but only after I plug it in, turn the camera on, let it shut down within five seconds, as mentioned in my previous post. Only in this way can the external LED change from green to red (so, I assume it's charging though I still need to make sure).
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Old Mar 10, 2009, 6:05 AM   #20
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I have just measured the amperage of the wall charger, and it is as follows:
- when charging: 1.1A-1.2A
- when opening the screen and turning on it jumps to 1.8A but within 5 seconds it shuts down.
It might be part of the answer - while it still can keep charging at lower amps, there is definitely a camera-on power treshold, and it seems to be over 1.8, which none of my car adaptors can provide.
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