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Old Jul 29, 2006, 4:19 PM   #1
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StarNomadCopyrights , fame and fortune all credit is his thank you

when you Post we'll edit to your name


Well, this has been kinda fun. Nothing has really surprised me as much as the elaberate way AIPTEK made the LCD screen turn the camera on and off. You would think they would use some form of switch like the FISHER CameraCorder. It uses a small plastic extrusion to depress a small momentarly on switch. When you file the plastic extrusion down, which is what I did, it cannot depress said switch and in turn will not turn off camcorder when LCD screen is shut. The AIPTEK MPVR 2K6 camcorder uses some form of Hall effect through the LCD screen through the mainboard of the camcorder. It is very unusual. First, there is small silver bar magnet at the upper inside of the LCD screen side of the camera case, close to the blue wires that go into the LCD screen case. I'm not sure what, if any, effect his bar magnet has on the operation of the camera. At first I thought the bar magnet was a piece of ferite used for filtering or blocking interference because of its close proximitey to the blue wires connected to the LCD screen. I have discovered that when the mainboard is connected to the battery and I lift the mainboard up and away from the "black rectangle" at the bottom of the case with the LCD screen, the mainboard powers up and when lowered, it powers down. It is using some form of Hall effect. From the top of the mainboard to the bottom of the mainboard to the button side of the LCD screen back to the top of the camera makes a complete circuit that triggers some component or sensor on the mainboard to turn the camcorder on and off. It's pretty wild. It is making me scratch my head. It just seems a bit elaberate for such a simple task. Any ideas on this one anyone? Next, I will disconnect the CMOS camera from the mainboard and wire up a long cable between the CMOS and the mainboard. At some pont I will create a battery shaped adaptor that fits in the battery compartment. It will have a small 3/32" monurial jack attached to it and I will use my Dremel tool to make a hole in the battery cover so the jack can stick through. Also, I will cut a retangular slot of material from the battery compartment lid so that I may be able to insert and remove an SD memory chip without removing the lid. Ok, it's bed time for me. Enjoy the pictures, at least it lets you get a look at what is in the camcorder without having to take the camcorder apart. I do have video I will edit together and put on YouTube, look out for it.:idea:




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Old Aug 11, 2006, 12:23 PM   #2
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Excellent work StarNomad!

Your images are very good. Iam also very interested in separating the CMOS camera from the main board. From your images, it looks like camera has direct solder connections to the main board. Would like to wirea plug so the CMOS camera could be plugged in and located elsewhere on a model aircraft. Would like to locate the main body of the camera inside the model aircraft (over CG) and locate the CMOS camera under a wing or wherever I like.Once that is done accomplished, would like to manipulate the camera (two axis) with micro servos.
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Old Aug 11, 2006, 5:03 PM   #3
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Well, this has been kinda fun. Nothing has really surprised me as much as the elaberate way AIPTEK made the LCD screen turn the camera on and off. You would think they would use some form of switch like the FISHER CameraCorder. It uses a small plastic extrusion to depress a small momentarly on switch. When you file the plastic extrusion down, which is what I did, it cannot depress said switch and in turn will not turn off camcorder when LCD screen is shut. The AIPTEK MPVR 2K6 camcorder uses some form of Hall effect through the LCD screen through the mainboard of the camcorder. It is very unusual. First, there is small silver bar magnet at the upper inside of the LCD screen side of the camera case, close to the blue wires that go into the LCD screen case. I'm not sure what, if any, effect his bar magnet has on the operation of the camera. At first I thought the bar magnet was a piece of ferite used for filtering or blocking interference because of its close proximitey to the blue wires connected to the LCD screen. I have discovered that when the mainboard is connected to the battery and I lift the mainboard up and away from the "black rectangle" at the bottom of the case with the LCD screen, the mainboard powers up and when lowered, it powers down. It is using some form of Hall effect. From the top of the mainboard to the bottom of the mainboard to the button side of the LCD screen back to the top of the camera makes a complete circuit that triggers some component or sensor on the mainboard to turn the camcorder on and off. It's pretty wild. It is making me scratch my head. It just seems a bit elaberate for such a simple task. Any ideas on this one anyone? Next, I will disconnect the CMOS camera from the mainboard and wire up a long cable between the CMOS and the mainboard. At some pont I will create a battery shaped adaptor that fits in the battery compartment. It will have a small 3/32" monurial jack attached to it and I will use my Dremel tool to make a hole in the battery cover so the jack can stick through. Also, I will cut a retangular slot of material from the battery compartment lid so that I may be able to insert and remove an SD memory chip without removing the lid. Ok, it's bed time for me. Enjoy the pictures, at least it lets you get a look at what is in the camcorder without having to take the camcorder apart. I do have video I will edit together and put on YouTube, look out for it.:idea:




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fishycomicshas posted the images to ImageShack. I need to set up an account there, but I am in a hurry, as usual, I'll use Putfile.











































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Old Aug 11, 2006, 6:01 PM   #4
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Star i appologise super big time. i c/p the first clip above the updated post and it deleted the topic. this could have been avoided if I just left it alone

Please accept my appologest.. I asked awhile ago for you to post just a topic in here so I could have edited it your name not my name you are the top member of the Aiptek modd :|



Mod FISHY I deserve t be scolded.
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Old Aug 12, 2006, 2:57 AM   #5
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Awesome

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Old Aug 13, 2006, 6:56 PM   #6
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That's cool. <grinning>. Uh, I was wondering, where is the text of my post that is suppose to be with the images? Here's what I posted, the text that is, by the way August 11th was my birthday:

God! I hate being busy at work, real busy! When I want to post stuff! Ok, I am going to post more pictures. I have ones I will post later that show a close-up of the CMOS camera disconnected from the mainboard. this connector has about 18 contacts per side, so 36 in all. I'll have to use fine ribbon cable soldered to male and female non-PCB mount connectors that can match with the existing connectors. What I am going to do is turn my soldering iron down from 30 watts to 15 watts. Then I will grind down one of my existing soldering iron tips to a fie point with my Dremel of RotoZIP tool. I should be able to solder the fine wires. Alright, I need to post my pics to Putfile. I see fishycomics has posted the images to ImageShack. I need to set up an account there, but I am in a hurry, as usual, I'll use Putfile.

This is the text I posted. I thought about something for a while. I think I will make my own ribbon cable. Sounds weird huh? The reason is I want to be able to gather the wire together and put inside round insolation. Then the wire can flex in more than two directions. I want to do this because some people might want to wear it on a sweat band or something like a helmet cam. I get this finished I am going to have fun with it. I plan on making a clamping armiture for my Fisher CameraCorder and the AIPTEK MPVR camcorder. I will be able to attach it with Velcro to what I call a "camera holster". With this appuratise ( probably spelled it wrong) I will be able to use an edge of a table, cabinet door, TV tray, refrigderator door handle, etc. as a tripod. It will make it easier for me to work on anything hands free without dragging a freaking tripod around with me. I wish someone could bottle up some extra time for me :G. Cross your fingers and hope I don't break anything. Bye.
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Old Aug 14, 2006, 12:58 AM   #7
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Is the ribbon cable standarized...could I purchase various lengths with attached 18 pin connectors at either end or...am I dreamin? Seems from your imagesthe CMOS camera plugsinto the main board via the 18 pin connecter.For my application needs, ribbon cable extension would work fine.
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Old Aug 22, 2006, 2:52 PM   #8
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My approach to the ribbon cable is simple, you should be able to do it too. Take fine wire and lay it out on long pieces of masking tape. Lay the wires side by side against the adhesive side of the masking tape until you have 18 wires, then do another set of 18 wires, then if you need to to make sure the wires are secure, add masking tape at various point on the other side along your self made ribbon able. Then will have to purchase these connectors from an electronic supplier. Get the kind you can solder wire to not the PCB mount kind, but these connectors must be able to mate with the existing male and female connectors of the camera. Then after you solder the appropriate wires in the proper order, you can undo the masking tape and gather the wires together, then wrap electrical tape around the wires. You can get theelectrical tape thatare different colors at Home Depot, and get the kind with no sticky residue. This will makeit possible for the wire to flex in different directions, unlike a ribbon cable that is one solid line of wires.Right now I am searching high and low for this type of connector, I am sending out pictures of the male and female connectors to connector and fastener manufacturers. It would help if others would search for the connector too, just in case I cannot find it. Someone can give me a heads up on where to look. I am going to buy three male and female connectors so I can make it completely modular. The next thing I will do is make a solid plastic replica of the battery and wire a 3/32" monurial audio jack on the end of replica and drill a hole in the battery cover so jack can stick through, then I can just plug an alternate power source into the jack through a monurial audio plug, which you can get at any Radio Shack. Oh, when you solder the wires, set your soldering iron at around 30 watts so it is hot enough to make quick solder connections. If the tip is dirty, sand the tip with sand paper or use a sanding disc on a Dremel type tool. If you don't have a Dremel, it is a good investment and saves you time. You don't want to heat the wire to long and melt the individual insulations. If that happens you could create shorts in the wires. I'll let ya know more later.
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Old Aug 22, 2006, 9:18 PM   #9
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Thanks ! :-)

I used the camcorder this last weekend to record some on-board RC aircraft video and all went well.Will definitely be taking it apart this winter (off season) so I can place it inside the aircraft and locate the CMOS camera elsewhere. I didfind some 18 pin connectors on Ebay:

Tried to write HTML link code here, but if it doesn't work you can see the address:
Code:
<a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/2-set-18-Pins-Jamma-Connector-NEW_W0QQitemZ170021756391QQihZ007QQcategoryZ13718QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting" target="_top">18 Pin Connector</a>

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Old Aug 23, 2006, 9:21 AM   #10
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jp.. the site does not allow certain info posted sorry.

I wish they did

like youtube copy its link and just click on the vid that says play :G

guess its a way of keeping unwanted stuff off here.
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