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Old Feb 4, 2007, 5:17 PM   #1
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Some examples of different scenarios that need improvement.

My camera will give me the green light to shoot however I see it is clearly blurry. And when it is not blurry there is too much light even after I reduce it, and there is not enough. The bug picture is over exposed, used on AUTO it gives me this shadow I do also have my lens adaptor on. The dog picture came out great in my eyes and the hawk picture is too dark although that's when it was taken. It's a matter of knowing what settings to use for what type of subjects I believe.




Past my rock....



the shadow i find in alot of pics:



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Old Feb 4, 2007, 6:06 PM   #2
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I'll take a few guesses as to what may be happening in the shots you posted. In the first, of the hawk, the camera meter read the light from the sky, which is obviously brighter than the hawk, and the resulting exposure was too dark for the hawk. The 'backlight' scene setting may work better, or even the 'beach' or 'snow' scenes (assuming your camera has these).

As you said, the dog is pretty well exposed. I get the same shadowing you got on the snail when I use my lens with flash at the widest angle and close to the subject. I get the shadow of the lens/hood itself. Maybe that's what's going on in your shot. Solution would then be to zoom in on telephoto so that the camera flash is further away from the subject.

Just one opinion.

Greg
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Old Feb 4, 2007, 6:39 PM   #3
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diggy-

Thanks for posting the sample photos. Let's move through them one at a time.

The #1 Photo appears to be taken at a distance and then cropped to bring it even further forward, or closer to the viewer. Three things often affect the quality and sharpness of your photos. (1) Camera movement due to physical shake or shutter speed that is too low to be properly hand held. To eliminate camera movement, use the P for Program mode NOT the Auto mode. When using the Program Mode, when you push half way down on the shutter release the shutter speed that the Z650 is going to use is shown on the LCD and the EVF. If the shutter speed that is going to be used is LESS than 1/50th of a second, increase the Z650's ISO setting, so that the camera will use a faster shutter speed. Because the Z650 does not have IS, the camera has to be held rock steady and at a shutter speed of 1/50th of a second or faster.

(2) Cropping to bring the photo closer: This just spreads the pixels further apart and the sharpness of the photo measurably decreases quite rapidly. (3) Under exposure or Over exposure:Sample Photo #1 shows someunder exposure. That is proven by the darkness of the bird (owl?) in the photo. It is always a good idea toBracket any photo that is an important photo to you. Bracketing means you take the first photo at the normal exposure the camera is calling for. The second photo should be taken at -.07 of Exposure Compensation. The third photo should be taken at +.07 Exposure Compensation. Those three photos will give you three different looks at your important photo. One of them is bound to nail the exposure. (4) Be sure to use the zoom capability of your Z-650. However, the more you zoom to bring the subject closer in the photo, the higher your shutter speed has to be. There is an often usedrule of thumb: Your Z-650 zooms from 38mm to 380mm. Hence, it is said that the Z-650 has 10X (or 10 times) optical zoom.When you are zoomed all the way out to the maximum zoom, which in the Z-650 is 380mm of focal length, any little movement you mak is multiplied by 10 times (or 10X) in your photo. To take care of any possible camera movement, just put a 1 over the focal length being used to determine the minimum shutter speed for your photo. In our example, because you are at the maximum focal length of 380mm the shutter speed has to be at least 1/380 th of a second to prevent movement blur in your photo. So the more you zoom, the higher the shutter speed has to be to prevent blur (a loss of detail) in your photo.

The #2 Sample photo was taken at nearly high noon as evidenced by the shadows under your dog. The best time of day for good photos is between8:00 am and and 10:30am standard time, and from 2:00pm and 5:00pm standard time. This is because whenever the sun is directly, or nearly directly overhead, the lighting is very flat and a lot of detail can be lost in any photo. There also appears to be a smudge in the photo. Was the lens clean?

The shadow in the #3 Sample Photo is YOUR OWN Shadow because you were taking the photo with the light to your back. Once again, as you can see from the shadow position in the photo, the sun is nearly directly overhead and the light has become very flat. here is what you can do: (1) Reposition yourself so that your subject is not in the shadow caused by your body. (2) Use your Z-650's macro or close-up mode so that you can get closer to the beetle. (3) use the bracketing proceedure I spoke of before. (4)Pay attention to the shutter speed that is going to be used. Make sure that it is 1/50 of a second or faster to prevent/stop camera movement.

Icould not pull up any of EXIF information from your photos. Are you doing any post processing of your photos? That can also increase photo quality. I hope this helps.

MT/Sarah
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Old Feb 4, 2007, 10:30 PM   #4
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yes this all helps and yes i load them onto photobucket after i reduce the size, otherwise they are way too big. i have several MP's available. Will keep practicing.
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Old Feb 5, 2007, 12:20 AM   #5
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If you are wanting the best detail you need to have a tripod or at leasst some way to keep the camera rock steady! Also you need to use the Macro mode on your camera and at least use the P mode in pasm...I actually like the A mode and sometimes the M or manual mode! The settings will differ according to the light source you have available and the amount of DOF you wish. If you have good light then have the light source comming over one shoulder to avoid casting a shadow and also not being directly in front and causing over exposures or having something behind the subject cast a shadow on the subject! I also use the timer to make sure that even my pressure and release of the shutter doesn't cause the camera to move. Use spto focus and center wieghted exposure with an ISO of 100 or lower! With ample light set the camera to p mode and bracket the shot with the exposure compensation. If the first shot is too dark raise the Exposure compensation to the plus side by one stop at a time until you achieve the exposure you want! Move the camera in and out instead of zooming in and out, unless the subject cannot be approached that way. Then and only then use the zoom. Also if it is too hard to get the light source in the right place ( say it is going to be behind you ) then back away and use the zoom here.

Above all do things in steps. Try one and if it doesn't work try something else. I nor anyone else can give you diffinitive settings for your shots as the available light will change from place to place and even moment to moment! Try this in program mode and then in A mode and then in S mode and then in M mode! Macros can be done in all modes includuing Auto! It is just easier in P mode where you have more control and can change things like the ISO! I hope some of this helps...One of these days I wish Kodak would furnish better info for those buying a camera. But in the meantime we will try to help! More Questions? Ask away and some ofd us will try to help. Sarah is well qualified to do this as she does it for a living!

Dawg
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Old Feb 5, 2007, 6:32 AM   #6
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A simple suggestion for the shadow type pictures....you mention you have your lens adapter on all of the time.....for the situations that you get this shadow remove your lens adapter and take the pic.....if shadow is gone then problem solved...if not then it is another issue.



John....
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