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Old Sep 27, 2007, 1:24 AM   #1
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Has anyoneround here seen reports like this one about KLIC-8000 posted at the end of this thread in the 'Batteries or powerpacks' forum just now, about non-operational KLIC-8000? I wonder if some of so-called replacement 'KLIC-8000' are counterfeits or imitations.

http://forums.steves-digicams.com/fo...amp;forumid=51

I use 'rechargeable CR-V3' myself, but all reports of KLIC-8000 that I've seen before have been good (apart from price & availability).

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Old Sep 28, 2007, 10:10 AM   #2
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Like you I wonder about the authenticity of the "KLIC8000" batteries. I also question the motivation of someone putting on such a demo.

I think you and I were both involved in a thread were Sarah commented that she took the KLIC8000 out of her Z612, put it in her Z712 and it worked the same.
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Old Nov 9, 2007, 12:01 PM   #3
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Mr. Alan T

I am looking for battery charger to my klic8000 original kodak and other one oem from bestbattery.com. The charger I am looking for is the one z612 (K8500) little, directly plug on the wall without any transformer. I know that bestbattery has one "equivalent" but I want the original kodak as z612

I have an excellent z712 using rechargable 2700 AA batteries.

The problem is about chargers and batteries: C3VR, Klic8000 and AA all of them uses different chargers and I travel with a little bag
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Old Nov 9, 2007, 12:04 PM   #4
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One more thing

Why kodak donĀ“t fix the firmware to be better in battery using? It cuts the power very soon and it means to change so often the battery (with the fear about brake the bad little tape-battery dessign: the only "bad" about z712)
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Old Nov 9, 2007, 6:44 PM   #5
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jtouso wrote:
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...I have an excellent z712 using rechargable 2700 AA batteries...

...firmware...to be better in battery using? It cuts the power very soon and it means to change so often the battery
If you are getting good use of AA Ni-MH batteries, well done! Some others have reported this, and others, like me, have got very poor battery lifetime between charges with Ni-MH AA cells. Kodak does not recommend them, but some people do find they work reasonably, and they will certainly do for a few shots in an emergency.

Most people using the various types of Li-ion rechargeable battery seem happy. But yes, you're right, each type of Li-ion batteryhas a different charger. This is inevitable, as they have their contacts in different places. There are 2-terminal and 3-terminal variants of 'rechargeable CR-V3' and KLIC-8000 has an end contact and a side contact. So obviously they won't fit each others' chargers, and there's no easy way out of that.

Ihave two differently branded, but probably identical, 3-terminal rechargeableCR-V3s myself, which I use in rotation on the same mains/12V charger, so I always have a fully charged spare to hand. You can always carry a throwaway primary Li CR-V3 battery as well as a last resort backup. That would last a long time.

Good luck!
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Old Nov 12, 2007, 9:04 PM   #6
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Like Alan T.I have two rechargeable LiIons (KLIC8000s) that I use in rotation and a non-rechargeable CR-V3 as backup.
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Old Nov 26, 2007, 11:50 PM   #7
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I bought a Z712IS on the day after Thanksgiving Day here in the USA. I want to know if it's safe to buy non-OEM batteries off eBay for this. I've seen several Klic-8000 types and some CRV-3 types, but they're advertised as being 3.7 volt batteries. The CRV-3 that came with my camera mentions 3V on the label, not 3.7V; likewise, two AA Lithium batteries are 1.5V each, again, supplying 3V to the camera. I don't want to use a 3.7V battery when I should be using 3V batteries (do I?) Is it safe to do so? Won't the camera be damaged by the extra .70 volts?

I'm a electricity dunce I admit.

Thanks!
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Old Nov 27, 2007, 2:23 AM   #8
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Doug1937 wrote:
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...I want to know if it's safe to buy non-OEM batteries off eBay for this.... I don't want to use a 3.7V battery when I should be using 3V batteries (do I?) Is it safe to do so? Won't the camera be damaged by the extra .70 volts?...
You will be taking the usual risks of unknown sources, if you buy from anything but a reputable store where you can go back easily and complain. However, the voltages you quote are purely nominal, and refer to two different battery systems, and several different packages containing these two systems, all of which will work, if genuine.

Li batteries are single-use, 'primary', throwaway cells. Your Z712 will work fine for many, many shots with these, either as a pair of AA Li batteries, or a single 'CR-V3' package which looks like, and is, a combined pair of such throwaway cells in a single package to fit in the same space. I carry a long-dated (2016) throwaway CR-V3 as an emergency backup, but probably won't use it until 2012 or so (I hope).

Li-ionbatteriesare rechargeable & reusable, and the chemistry is quite different. Examples, all of which will work in your camera, are Kodak's own KLIC-8000, which has one contact on the end and one on the side, and various imitation 'replacement KLIC-8000', which will also be fine if they're genuine and from a reputable source.I don't have any of these myself, but those who do are generally very happy. They have a dedicated charger to fit that particular battery design.

Then there are various flavours of Li-ion 'rechargeable CR-V3'. I have a pair of these, plus a dedicated mains/12V charger, with which I well pleased.Thesehave two big contacts plus a little one,on one end, used only by the charger.My two batteries have different brands but I'm pretty confident, after thousands of shots and many recharges that they're identical.I'm very happy with them.

There are also types which have only the two terminals on one end, plus a dedicated 2-terminal charger, which could potentially be used for possibly lethal attempts to recharge a dead primary Li CR-V3 throwaway cell. Theseare otherwise probably just as good, or better than mine, if they have higher mAh capacity.

You can also use pairs of AA Ni-MH rechargeables if you're desperate. Battery lifetime before shutdown will probably be short, and the higher the capacity of the cells the better, because they'll last longer before the voltage (too low to start with) falls below the camera's cut-off level. I don't recommend it, but mention it because my esteemed and expert local camera shop persist in maintaining that this works well for them on all the Z*12is camera series, which they like very much.

Finally, if you buy a 'Vigital Dolt Meter' (DVM) and do some measurements, you'll find that nominal quoted battery voltages are pretty meaningless. It's the voltage under load, when the camera is drawing its rather enormous requirements, that really matters, and that's not easy to measure unless you're an expert. I haven't even tried, (though I know howI couldtry to do it).

Good luck!
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Old Nov 27, 2007, 8:21 PM   #9
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Quote:
However, the voltages you quote are purely nominal, and refer to two different battery systems, and several different packages containing these two systems, all of which will work, if genuine.
So you're saying that a 3.7 volt battery designed for the Kodak Z712IS won't harm it, even though the camera was bundled with a 3 volt battery when it left the factory?

Thanks.
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Old Nov 27, 2007, 9:34 PM   #10
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Doug1937 wrote:
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So you're saying that a 3.7 volt battery designed for the Kodak Z712IS won't harm it, even though the camera was bundled with a 3 volt battery when it left the factory?
Yes, because neither of those voltages are accurately true, anyway, and the camera was designedfor a KLIC-8000 battery which has 3.7V or 3.8V printed on the side.

The throwaway non-rechargeable primary lithium battery with which it was bundled was a Kodak CR-V3, probably. It says "3V" on both the Kodak and the Duracell ones I have, but the unused Duracell measures 3.1V acoss its terminals, and the used Kodak one now measures 2.83V. "3V" printed on the battery case means "about 3V". Through the long lifetime of a throwaway cell, its voltage will decline gradually, until eventually it won't work any more, because on drawing current the voltage falls below the camera's cutoff point.

The equivalent rechargeable lithium-ion KLIC-8000 or rechargeable CR-V3 batteries usually have 3.7 or 3.8V printed on the case, and as they are used, the voltage will also decline.Mine (CR-V3)measure as much as 3.87V on open circuit (no load) when freshly charged, and over 4V across the little charger contact (which is not used by the camera).

In the forums round here 'SilverFoxCPF', I think, a battery expert, posteda few months ago an experimentally determined equation for a typical Li-ion battery. It shows a declinefrom possibly as much as 4.2V at 80% charge to around 3.8V round 25% charge. But if you could measure the the voltage across the terminals while the battery was in the camera and it was switched on, both would be lower, because current was being drawn from the battery, and the voltage will drop through all the energy-using components.

The "3V" designation probably stems from the throwaway CR-V3 ones originally being usable in other cameras designed for pairs of AA throwaway Mn-alkaline cells with a nominal voltage of 1.5V each.

Don't worry. If you read any of the dozens of posts about these batteries, you'll see that you're more likely to have too little voltage and energy than too much. Modern cameras like the Z712 are energy-hungry.
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