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Old Sep 19, 2005, 2:18 PM   #11
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Fava, thank you for so much info! The photos look pretty nice, I didn't think the noise around the streetlight too bad considering the 400iso. Congratulations on your camera. Have fun and send us more shots:-)

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Old Sep 19, 2005, 5:24 PM   #12
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Mato34 wrote:

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About the exposure compensation in manual mode, the "exposure compensation" isn't that, but a measure between the exposure you've selected (in manual) and the exposure the camera would select. In other words: withe the "exposure compensation" numbers, in manual mode the camera tells you how your exposure is far from its one.
Mato,

Thanks for the tip wrt. the exposure compensation in Manual mode. Since I didn't remember how to set the exposure manually, I went back to the camera manual, and this is what they say on page 26, when introducing the Manual mode: "Exposure compensation acts as an exposure meter, recomending the proper combination of aperture and shutter speed to produce an acceptable exposure." From this I understand that the camera determines an acceptable exposurefor the current scene and then computes the difference between that and the one that would result from the current combination of values for the aperture and shutter speed. Therefore, I could change the aperture and/or the shutter speed to reduce or increase the displayed "exposure compensation". I think I also noticed an effect on it when changing the ISO. There is a button/menu for setting how the camera would determine the exposure - exposure metering - with 4 choices.

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Reading at your posts the AF speed is slow at telephoto or with dim lights, which is pretty common in ultrazoom models (though some do better than others), but in normal ligth or not in tele, is it responsive enough?
In normal light my impression is the the AF is pretty fast. For example, I would point the camera with a small zoom (I tested with around 9X and under) at objects situated at different distances, and the AF would correctly focus in a fraction of a second (you need to be in AF continuous mode for this). Also, when zooming in normal light conditions, it usually takes less than a second to get a correct focus, except when zooming fast and long, when it can take around asecond (for example when zooming from 1X to more than 6X at once).Also, when pressing the shutter button halfway to lock the AF, the camera does a a refocusing in around a second in normal light and with decent zoom (again - I tested for 9X and under). Of course, these time estimates are not based on professional testing - I just attempted to count :-). By normal lightconditions I understand outdoor shooting in fair and better weather (not too cloudy ordusk/dawn/night).

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Fava

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Old Sep 19, 2005, 5:28 PM   #13
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speaklightly wrote:

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fava98-

I think you have done a wonderful job of giving us a lot of information and some excellent photo samples as well. Many thanks.

Sarah Joyce
Thank you Sarah, I'm glad I could help. I hope you'll get your P850 soon, so we can share tips and tricks :-).

Fava.
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Old Sep 19, 2005, 6:00 PM   #14
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One last picture in this thread.

Before getting to that, I just wanted to add to my "Mon Sep 19th, 2005 08:48 am" post that I did not mean to say that in manual mode you can only change the settings displayed at the bottom of the screen. All the settings can be changed through menus. The ones at the bottom of the screen are just particularly easy to change with the "Command" dial + "Set" button combination.

One last thing: I promissed Mato I will send him the original files for some of the pictures I posted on this forum. I will do so during the next few days, and they will be accessible at the web site managed by Mato: http://perso.wanadoo.es/kodakpseries/

And now the photo: the statue of George Mason :-).
There are 3 relatively powerful lights pointed at it from above, all around it at equal distance. I took the picture from about15 yards (I think). The camera was mounted on the tripod, in Manual mode with the flash turned off. Other EXIF info:

- exposure time: 05. sec
- shutter speed: 0.5 sec
- ISO 160
- aperture: f/3.6
- focal length in 35 mm film: 274

No post processing except for resizing from 1944x2592 to 600x800 and saving as maximum quality (10).
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Old Sep 19, 2005, 9:34 PM   #15
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:lol:Hi,

Many thanks for your efforts and photos.

:idea:

If you have time, please also test the movie function.

Thanks a lot !

Billy


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Old Sep 20, 2005, 5:25 AM   #16
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Hi Fava,

Very very indepth opinion you posted here with lots of images to see. Thanks to you very much for that.

Now regarding your comments for AF failing in Macro-setup at telephoto isnt uncommon. Because you told your flower was just 1foot (30 cm) away and you did 6X+ zoom. In such conditions it wont focus. This camera has 10cm focus range at max w/a (I mean 35 mm) if you zoom it focus point for macro-focus will be changed to higher values. Try focusing from atleast 2-3 feets away with 5X zoom it might focus.

Regarding LCD/EVF blacking out in long exp. shots, I can say that is happening with my DX6490 too. The longer the exposure, longer it stays blacked out, that is after click actually for given period (secs which you set) it accumulates light from the subject during this period both LCD/EVF stays black after that it takes some time for processing too.

All the best with new camera.

Atindra

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Old Sep 20, 2005, 6:33 AM   #17
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Hi all there

I received your photo Fava, I'll upload at the web this afternoon (in a few hours), thanks!

Also thanks for your comments, ones of the most in-depth as Atindra said. The autofocus seems to work good enough from your words. In low-light or telephoto, ultrazoom models used to felt sluggish, although the new ones (FZ5, Canon S2, Sony H1...) seems to do better.

Regarding about that blank LCD after long exposures, I'd say that it's due to the noise reduction noise using the "dark frame" method. After the "normal" exposure taking the photo, the camera takes another exposure as long as the previous but with shutter closed, not allowing light reaching the sensor. Hence, the sensor will get some kind of "pattern noise", which will be supressed to the normal exposure. I'm sure that you can find another better explanation about "dark frame" out there...

It's quite an standarized method, implemented in almost all cameras, although in some it can be disabled (i.e. my KM Z2).

Un saludo.
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Old Sep 20, 2005, 11:26 AM   #18
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Many thanks to Atindra and Mato for the info posted wrt. to my observations.

The blacking out issue is not bothering me too much (at least for now). I would certainly like to see a faster saving time, andI will probably buy an UltraSD card (60x) in the near future (I wanted to wait until Thanksgiving to get a better deal)to seewhetherthat improves things. I still haven't tested the burst mode yet.

I've never done Macros before, that's why I am so clueless. Thanks for the tips - I will try again this week-end. I've noticed some amazing close-ups in other threads here (especially one with a spider :-)), and I understand that I need to buy some special lens for that. Will probably do so in the future - I'm trying to do this one step at a time.

usaboy, I will try the movie feature this week-end. I'm not sure how I can post the files here though...

One more bit of info about the AF modes. As I said, I could not find the menu that would allow one to switch between the continuous and single mode while in "Auto" or "Scene". However, in "Auto" one can press the focus button which is situated on top of the camera on the left side, and a menu comes up that allows the selection of close-up, landscape and manual mode for focus. Nothing happens when the focus button is pressed in the 'Scene" mode. Unless I'm missing something, the menu that comes up in "Auto" after pressing the focus button is not reachable through the menu button in the same "Auto" mode....

There is another way to complement the AF when it does not do a good job: the AE/AF lock button, which is on the back side of the camera in the upper right part. I don't know too much aboutthis yet -there is a page in the manual describing the functionality of the button and how to use it when the AF fails. I'll post here my observations about that once I get to try it - probably this week-end.
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Old Sep 20, 2005, 11:48 AM   #19
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Hi Fava,

Glad to hear from you. Dot worry about Macros, I learnt through forums only.

Your cam has 10cm min dist range for Macro (thats not one of the greatest of competition) that is very good for getting nice Macros of flwers, bugs etc. And for extreme macros you need good macro filters but in general P850 should produce great macros with camera-lense itself.

I like macros very much, many times they produce great results from simple excercise.

Now for some of your queries regarding camera, you can try to post it at dpreview forum, because Kodak personals visit it quite frequently and they can reply you well.(Just my suggestion)

Atindra
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Old Sep 20, 2005, 12:26 PM   #20
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Atindra wrote:

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Glad to hear from you. Dot worry about Macros, I learnt through forums only.

Your cam has 10cm min dist range for Macro (thats not one of the greatest of competition) that is very good for getting nice Macros of flwers, bugs etc. And for extreme macros you need good macro filters but in general P850 should produce great macros with camera-lense itself.

I like macros very much, many times they produce great results from simple excercise.

Now for some of your queries regarding camera, you can try to post it at dpreview forum, because Kodak personals visit it quite frequently and they can reply you well.(Just my suggestion)

Atindra
Atindra, thanks again for the info.

I knew about the Macro capabilities of the P850 vs the competition before I bought it. I read that Cannon S2 has 0cm min dist. range. I think that P850 is more than enough for my needs.

I visited the dpreview forum quite often before buying the camera, and I still go there once a day :-).

Best wishes,
fava
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