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Old Mar 13, 2008, 6:51 AM   #1
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Minolta Dimage 7 delay in Power-up and Shut-down procedure!

Summery: Don't use this camera more than 1 hour (continously). The overheating could affect the main PCBassy.

Also, Minolta email support is too bad.

Theydon't accept to receiveall kind of email att. (jpg gif ..) they told methis is some kind of protection.

I asked them about the main PCBassy price. and they didn't reply. they asked me to call them by phone!

I think good companies should give accurate price list for their spare parts and the availablity list.

Also, the camera should give an alarm in case of overheating, and it should shut off automatically.

Please read below:

Hi,

I have a Minolta Dimage 7 Digital Camera>

I'm very keen in electronics and I have its service manual (45 pages).



Few months ago, I upgraded the firmware to ver 2.01e. (I read the full compatebility notice before installing).



The camera worked so fine.

I've got about 2000 jpgs

And the last day I took about 200 jpgs in a very short period of time. So I was enforced to exchange the batteries during the snapshots. I'm using 2500mAh MiMH Kodak batteries. I noticed that the grey front right hand part of the camera is a little bit overheated.



The next day, and after the camera returned to its normal temperature, I tried turning the Main Switch/ Mode Dial from OFF to Recording Mode, after putting a completely charged batteries.

Unfortunately, I heard a small sound "Tick" then nothing happened else, the Data panel stayed dim(unlit) and with no data, and no red indicator had seen, also the monitor LCD didn't start. I didn't hear the noises which the camera should give in normal conditions.

I left the switch as is, few minutes later, the camera continued the startup procedure, as I heard the noises and the Data panel lit in green and it displayed the normal status.

I made several snapshots and everything were going well.

I turned the knob to playback mode, I have seen the entire snapshots I did.

Which meanthat the CF card is working well.

Also all the other knobs were working properly.

Then I decided to turn the camera OFF.

Again, the LCD monitor turned OFF directly, but the upper Data Panel was left ON!!! And I heard "tick"

Few minutes later, it turned OFF automatically. And I heard the same noises in the normal manner.



1-Does that mean the main board had a cold welding point? Or, the board was affected in the earlier overheating.



I tried to use the transformer instead of the internal batteries, and I found this same situation. Delay in the turn on and turn off. And also the delay period is the same.



2-Does that mean that some chemical capacitors were damaged? ( which capacitor should I replace?).



3- Does that mean there is a cold welding in some points beyond the processor in the MAIN PCB ASSY(0402) due to the frequent humidity and overheating?



N.B I tested the internal backup battery, and it gave 3.24V (it's OK)





Can anyone help me?

Attached below a snapshot of the expected affected PCB.






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Old Mar 13, 2008, 3:39 PM   #2
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drsoubhi wrote:
Quote:
Also, Minolta email support is too bad.
You do realize that Sony bought all of Konica Minolta's camera related assets and is servicing Minolta Digital Cameras now, right? Minolta is not in the camera business anymore. Ditto for camera parts or repair. Sony acquired that part of Konica Minolta.

See the very top "sticky" (announcement post) in our Konica Minolta Forum (the one you started this thread in).

Sony Support for Konica Minolta Products

Note that this camera has always had a reputation for being a power hog and running hot (and it's *very* picky on batteries). But, it sounds like you've got a more serious issue. I would try diffferent batteries, making sure the contacts in the camera are clean, too (sometimes a bit of oxidation can cause problems). I'd also try a different CompactFlash card, as I have seen CompactFlash media fail in a way that pulled too much current.

In the U.S., I think Precision Camera is the place Sony is using for repairs for your model. It looks like they are probably charging a flat rate of around $199 to fix your model now if you can't find out how to do it yourself (or just get a used replacement instead if that's too steep and you can find a good price on one). I'm not sure who repairs them for Sony outside of the U.S.

Good luck with it.

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Old Mar 13, 2008, 6:13 PM   #3
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Dear JimC,

Thank you very much for your reply,

I read an old forum regarding power problem.
Someone mentioned the use of a pencil eraser to clean the contacts.
I used other professional material (Spray) to cleanup all the contacts.
Also I have my own digital AVOmeter and I tested the impidence of these contacts and they were all in good conditions. Also you can not see any kind of corrosion nor oxidation on these contacts.

So I decided to disassemble the camera and to re-assempble it again by removing the entire ribbons which could be oxidated.
The important connections were Gold plated.

So, Now, I don't think at all it's a battery contacts problem.
I mentioned in my issue that I tried to use the transformer instead of the batteries, but the same problem occurred.

Also I have two sets of 4 batteries pack.

Normally, this camera should start up without putting any compact flash card. But it will display NO CF Card message. And it shouldn't delay at all.

I tried to run it without the CF Card, and I noticed that the delay is a little bit more than 6 minutes without putting the CF Card. By the mean the CF Card helped to increase the temperature needed to activate the main PCB assy.
You know that the CF Card slot located on the other side of the same PCB which contains the BGA processor "IC101 = Mega Chips MA07163 45BAX".

So, I used my heating source and as a conclusion I found that the delay was decreased from 6 minutes to 15 seconds only!.



Why an elevated temperature helps in this issue?

It could be happened due to some cold welding behind the IC 101 caused by time and hummidity.

Regards,

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Old Mar 13, 2008, 6:51 PM   #4
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Usually, you'll see the opposite problem (cracks in the etching not allowing current flow because they open up more when hot, or cold solder joints failing when a board with a problem gets hot, or components failing when they get too hot).

Let us know how you make out with it. Sometimes a very simple problem is the root cause of issues versus a component failing (if you're lucky). lol

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Old Mar 14, 2008, 11:25 AM   #5
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Dear JimC,

[glow=red]At first, I don't know why the last picture (heating air gun in place) was removed! in my last reply!!![/glow]


I read that Mr. Colin has invented a way to reflow BGA ICs.
You can find his procedure by visiting the following link:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Toaster-Oven-Reflow-Soldering-BGA

and I sent him the following message:
================================================== =============
I have an old Minolta Dimage 7 Digital Camera.

I think that the BGA Processor has some cold welding.
Is it possible to use your procedure to reflow the affected BGA pins?

Also you didn't mention the duration needed for that operation.

I'm a dentist, and I prefer to use a ceramic electronic oven which is more accurate and it's

available in any good Dental Lab.

You can read my trouble by visiting the following link:

http://forums.steves-digicams.com/forums/view_topic.php?

id=587881&forum_id=20&jump_to=866089#p8660 89

Please help me regarding this issue.

Soubhi Sabbagh
email: lego(at)aloola.sy
GSM +963944416832
================================================== =============


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Old Mar 15, 2008, 4:52 PM   #6
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drsoubhi wrote:
Quote:
Dear JimC,
Quote:
At first, I don't know why the last picture (heating air gun in place) was removed! in my last reply!!!
Quote:
It appears that you did not upload the image. The properties say the address is your hard drive, which we cannot access. You need to use the link at the bottom of the page to upload the picture.
Quote:
Quote:

I read that Mr. Colin has invented a way to reflow BGA ICs.
You can find his procedure by visiting the following link:
The heat generated this way is likely to damage the IC. I would not recommend it.

The problem you are experiencing does sound like it could be a cold solder joint. I would suspect it to be at a heat generating component such as a resistor in the power supply section. Look for a larger resistor stood off from the board somewhat. Use a small tip soldering iron and fine wire solder (flux cored). Keep the contact time to the minimum necessary to get the solder to reflow.

I can't begin to count the number of items from televisions to industrial x-ray equipment, that I have repaired this way. If possible, I would find a way to remove excess heat from the component, but being contained in the camera housing, it would likely not be possible,

brian
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Old Mar 15, 2008, 8:01 PM   #7
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Hi,


As I sayed thetrouble was in the main PCB Assy. See the picture upward. and there were no big resistor.



I tried first to fix the 4.7 Ohm resistors and to test them as it could be fuse resistors. Unfortunately I couldn't help.

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Old Mar 15, 2008, 8:03 PM   #8
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Hi,

As I told you I'm a dentist, and electronic is my hobby.

Each dentist has a lot of tools which can help in this situation.

The following tools were helpful:



* Common dental X=Ray tube with 3*4cm dental films

* Old dry Heat sterilizer. I have a very famous one comes from "Melag ™"

* Another Digital camera.



It was pleasure to me to try using my old dry heat oven, as it's equipped with an accurate mercury thermometer. and the probe is immersed inside the oven. It includes an analogue timer and adjustable analogue thermostat.



I calibrated the thermostat until I reached 210 Deg C.

Normally it takes about 15 minutes to heat it up from 50 to 210.



I made several trials on old PCB like old BGA processor and old Laptop Hard Disk and more.



I reondgenographed the main PCB assy near the BGA to find the distance between the pins.



Finally, I put my main PCB assy inside the oven. I placed the PCB inside a metallic pot and I made the BGA (IC 101) on the top side. Then I started the sterilization cycle, and let's name it Cooking. When I reached the 210 C, I cut the power source and I opened the upper door slowly and I waited until it returned to 50 C.



Now the PCB should be ready.

I made another X-ray to see if there's still space between the BGA pins. And it revealed that everything is going well.



N.B I realized in my trials that the component on the lower side would not slumb down cause of the SnPb tension.



You can do that by yourself, but be careful not to vibrate the PCB until you finish the entire cycle.



I reassembled the camera. And the saved picture gallery helped me so much.

And now the camera returned to its normal condition.





N.B

* Don't disassemble the camera in case you were tired.

* Don't forget to make digital snapshots in every step you made. It would help you in case you made any mistake.

* The 2.5 monitors is equipped with white jack used for the screen backlight, it could fit in the adjacent connector. (Why Minolta did that mistake?)

* When you need to assemble the camera back, please be careful about the entire wires (I made a mistake when I collected the camera as one of the high voltage wires used for the flash circuit was smashed into a metallic edge inside the camera, So the flash failed to Sync. And it took about 2 hours to solve that bug.



* Be careful about the orange ribbon in the back left side of the camera, it could be damaged with the corner of the monitor LCD framework the time you try to disassemble the camera. So It's better to fix an additional protective tape on this corner.



Please ask me if you need to see any of the snapshots I made.



Enjoy


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Old Mar 15, 2008, 8:14 PM   #9
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VTphotog wrote:
Quote:
The heat generated this way is likely to damage the IC. I would not recommend it.

The problem you are experiencing does sound like it could be a cold solder joint. I would suspect it to be at a heat generating component such as a resistor in the power supply section. Look for a larger resistor stood off from the board somewhat. Use a small tip soldering iron and fine wire solder (flux cored). Keep the contact time to the minimum necessary to get the solder to reflow.

I can't begin to count the number of items from televisions to industrial x-ray equipment, that I have repaired this way. If possible, I would find a way to remove excess heat from the component, but being contained in the camera housing, it would likely not be possible,

brian
Quote:
So if you know that the cold welding is under the BGA IC how can you treat that?
Quote:
I read more and more about BGA. And the best way is to use heat without air, you should be careful to heat up until you reach 210 and wait for half a minute then cool down slowly. your PCB should be fixed horisontally andwith the BGAon theTop side. Also remember if you hit 230 C or more "pop corn effect could occure" and it could damge the entire board.
Quote:
Also you should remove all wires and low fusing plastic parts, and you should take care about big components.
Quote:
Inmy case I put the PCB as is.
Quote:
believe me it worked. Idid that. cause I have no other way. also this PCB couldcost about 200 USD!!!
Quote:
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Old Mar 15, 2008, 9:07 PM   #10
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Please visit the following link to my Minolta Dimage 7 repair procedure.

http://dentist.20fr.com/images/Konic...%207%20Repair/


Iresized the picture sizeto less than 640*480 below and I attached some of them below.

I will attach the others in case the bugforum bugwas removed.












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