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Old Nov 18, 2002, 4:28 PM   #11
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Default Toy Remote don't have a very long range

The problem with toy RC cars is the cheep ones don't have a very long range.
I would like to make a remote control from scratch, Well pre build bught boards that are NOT stolen from a car.

There are several boards avalible that apear to do this sort of thing, they seem to be similar to the ones used for garage doors.

If anyone know anything about them i would very much appriciat any info they can give me.

Tony Jobson
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Old Nov 18, 2002, 4:48 PM   #12
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The voltage requirements (and the price) for the garage door type remotes was what threw me. I think you'll find that they're calling for 48v (if I remember correctly).
One trick that might serve is to use a wireless remote for part of the distance and wire the rest of the way. 60' of 24 gauge wire works fine. You could probably wire a lot farther than that, if you wanted to.
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Old Nov 18, 2002, 4:48 PM   #13
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I got the perfect solution for an RF remote, I should have a schematic and parts list available tomorrow (and I'm using a 1 channel RF transmitter to do it !! ). But first a few questions: I hear many say that first you short pin 2 to 1 to focus and then short all 3 to activate shutter?? If someone can please give me the run down on this again, I can get the schematic done and the parts list available as well. Would you like the schematic built around a 300ft (optimal) range unit or 1000 Ft (optimal) RF transmitters. The difference is the cost of the RF equipment. 300 ft the RF stuff is a little over 20 bucks , then a few support devices, case and radials and your in business!!!!! Supplying this schematic to this fourm is the VERY LEAST I CAN DO for all the great info and support I've got from such a wonderful group of people
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Old Nov 18, 2002, 4:58 PM   #14
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Looking at the rear of the camera:

If you short the left-hand pin to the center pin, this is the same as half-pressing the shutter release button to focus.
If you then short the right-hand pin to the original short, this is the same as continuing that shutter button press to take the photo.

Remember that you may very well want to focus and hold that for a while before you take the photo, or you may focus and decide not to continue. This could be very important in a nature/stealth situation where you're using flash and the camera has gone into power-save mode. You'll want to "half-press" to wake up the camera, but you don't want to fire the flash.

Also remember FCC regulations! I believe (but am not sure) that certain frequencies are reserved for model planes and cannot be legally used for cameras.
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Old Nov 18, 2002, 5:19 PM   #15
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FCC Part 47, 68, 15 has left a serious imprint in my head!!!!! :shock: I will use a Ham radio frequency (N8SYJ is HERE!!!) so I can run legal, and 2 other bands are available in the same form factor (just buy the band u want to run in). The transmitters for the 300 Ft range unit come in 3 freq. bands. Unfortunately none of them fall into the 900Mhz ISM (Industrial Scientific Medical) spectrum which is pretty much a free for all. The Long Range Unit (1000 FT) is in the 900Mhz band but with so many cordless phones and such........ Also, the higher freq band is not ideal for uses other than line of sight - (at any real range that is, at these low power levels) and the signal gets easily attenuated in wooded areas and such (Higher freqs like metal and concrete so they can bounce!). The FCC concern for experiemntal use (and this is what this is right - follow my lead) is the unit must be able to accept any interference and not cause any interference at the freq in question. Since I'm not selling the units (but that might be a good idea) I don't have to worry. As in all things anyone using this device/schematic must use good judgment. One more clarification JimHunt, when u say you short the right hand pin to the original short - you must keep the original short right ??? In other words all three pins tied together activates the shutter?? Thanks for the FCC concern.
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Old Nov 18, 2002, 5:45 PM   #16
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Yes, this works exactly like the shutter button. You have to go through the halfpress to get to the release. If you're in autofocus mode, you want to connect the left pin to the center pin and pause while the camera focuses. Then you add the right pin to the existing combination.
If you're in manual focus mode, I belive you can simultaneously short all three pins. Just make sure that the camera doesn't sense the center and right pin being shorted first--then you won't get a photo.
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Old Nov 18, 2002, 5:49 PM   #17
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tonyjobson / Binji7

http://www.rentron.com/RF-Remote.htm

You might need two channels, or do a 'creative' wiring using a '2nd key' to short both pins...

Have fun !!!
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Old Nov 18, 2002, 6:13 PM   #18
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Creative wiring requires latching the first relay and that will work, but it limits the functionality. Plus I can build the whole thing with total functionality for the price of the receiver alone if I use an RF toy. Range is 50 or 60 feet.
If you've got to have the range, you've got to spend the bucks, but if you don't need more than 50 feet, go with the toy.
Wal-mart now has short range IR toys with a keychain size transmitter for about $10.00 if you can live with the IR limitations.
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Old Nov 18, 2002, 7:20 PM   #19
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Default Thank you

Hi

I have looked at all the links and they seem great.

I havn't had a chance to digest it all, seems pretty complicated :shock: to me, but will have a go i think

Many thanks
Tony.
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Old Nov 18, 2002, 9:40 PM   #20
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Jim

I was thinking more in term of open-collector transistors directly to the camera low-voltage pins, and more like a flip-flop than a latched relay... but I guess you're right mass market toys are hard to beat in term of pricing!
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