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Old Nov 22, 2002, 11:25 AM   #1
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Default Metering with the Dimage 7i

Hi there, I hope you can help... I am needing to relearn everything I ever knew about photography, especially metering.
I am having problems with photographing dutymen wearing white plumes and shiny silver helmets. Many examples can be seen on http://www.hcmr-photos.org.uk but here is a typical example, a small, blown up segment of an image. I was using spot metering on my Minolta Dimage 7i.



I would be grateful for some advice please, what should I be aiming the spot at?
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Old Nov 22, 2002, 4:34 PM   #2
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amcbryan

Actually your camera has a very nice manual mode in manual. Try it: Switch the camera to manual then as you vary the shutter speed or aperature settings, you can actually see what you are getting is the final picture (What You See Is What You Get). The camera EVF darken/brighten as the shutter speed increase/decrease... all the while you have a real-time histogram to guide you for a perfect composition!
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Old Nov 22, 2002, 6:11 PM   #3
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bracket your exposures too.
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Old Nov 22, 2002, 7:49 PM   #4
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Default Re: Metering with the Dimage 7i

Quote:
Originally Posted by amcbryan
I was using spot metering on my Minolta Dimage 7i.
amcbryan,
may I ask , in that pic, what did you "spot metered" ?
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Old Nov 23, 2002, 1:14 AM   #5
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Firstly, many thanks for all your replies, I am very grateful.

I will dare to try manual metering this week end, then I shall experiment with bracketing, and lastly, I think I spot metered on the guys face.

Your answers are all very relevant and I am learning much from your experience.

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Old Nov 23, 2002, 2:25 AM   #6
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You know something, in that blow-up of an example I provided, I was not using spot metering, but multi segment metering. After rechecking the EXIF data the following is an example of spot metering on the helmet an/or face! I have swapped to the correct image that was taken using spot metering.

Sorry for the confusion.
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Old Nov 23, 2002, 1:28 PM   #7
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Amcbryan,

I think you have the same issue as in wedding photographing. The white (shinny/satin) wedding dress often goes washed out and lost details, even more difficult with flash shots, and details are lost. May be trying to “underexpose” a little bit will help ?
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Old Nov 23, 2002, 9:36 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjms
bracket your exposures too.
I agree with another responder that you seem to be having the same problem as the wedding photographer. Both types of subjects have a very wide range of light values, requiring a very wide exposure latatude, which the camera doesn't automaticlly give you. I am used to the wide exposure lattatude of film, which gives me detail in both highlights and shadows. I find that many times the photos I take with my 7i lack these details. The detail is there in raw images but, to me, the camera software seems to be setting the contrast at too high a level so the details dissapear. I am happier using the camera with the contrast set at "-1".

I have several suggestions for you to try.

Try taking a few shots in raw storage mode then playing with the contrast and exposure range in the software. Note that using raw storage mode is somewhat impractical because of the time and space required to store the images, but it gives you the widest range of image minipulation in software.

Alternatively, try using contrast bracketing as well as exposure bracketing. Once you figure out the right exposrure and contast settings you will be much happier and can save your exposures in the "fine" setting to keep the storage space and time minimized.

The 7i is great in that it offers all these options.
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Old Nov 24, 2002, 1:25 AM   #9
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Thanks for that advice Don, the next time I take photographs of the Life Guards, with their white plumes and silver helmets, I shall set the contrast to -1, with some bracket exposures and in RAW mode. But what do I aim the spot at?

:?:
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Old Nov 24, 2002, 7:29 AM   #10
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When the camera is in the manual mode, you should be able to see the effects of your bracketings! Also try to profit from the real-time histogram, strive for the balance and avoid clippings. The spot should be aim @ the area where you care for the exposure most (ie avoid the black horse or the washed out area). Don is also refering to setting up the camera for contrast bracketing which the camera can do by itself...

You can undexposed the shots and recover later, but overexposed them and all the details are gone or clipped. This is also an area where the wider AdobeRGB color space of the D7hi can help... What about using the external 5600HS-D to fill?
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