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Old Mar 26, 2006, 12:18 PM   #11
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Regarding the AA's. I have a lot of PowerX.s rated 2100 which I can use as a back up to the NP-400's. That was why I was so interested in getting the BP-400. I'm assuming that I can use the cord I have on the charger with the appropriate European plug. My Maha 204C will do the AA's

You're right about the remote cable sn using the 2s or 10s self timer will work . I have a tripod and I like to take night scenes. got any recommended setting.

I have changed to the focus to spot I have noticed the focus is softer than my Canon but that's what the unsharp mask in Photoshop is for.

"Also there's "f7.1-bug", when using auto exposure and zooming to tele it retains this f-ratio until shutter time would drop aroun" I'm a little confused here.

I have updated the firmware to 1.14 so I'm ready for the larger CF cards.

What image size & setting do you use? While the pros may use Raw and TIFF I have been using 2580X1920 at a fine and somethines an extra fine settings. Right now I have several 1GB SanDisk Ultra 11's and some 512's. I plan on downloading to a laptop as I go rather than take the chance of something going wrong. A friend and I were in Prague last year and he had a 2GB card go bad and lost a lot of pictures.
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Old Mar 26, 2006, 3:09 PM   #12
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In continental Europe that ungrounded "euro"-plug would propably work in most countries


In darker use low ISOs unless you really need shorter shutter times, then just use P-mode and play with exposure compensation.



This is more what it looked to eye at time of previous shot


I think I used 2s timer in both shots.


1.13 was for larger than 4GB cards...
1.14 is for this.


Here's more about F7.1 bug:
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/re...ssage=14383131

Forget TIFF, it's totally pointless. It just takes huge amount of space, over double of RAW (meaning longer writing time) and doesn't have any advantage over best JPEG whose file size is about 1/4th of it.


At defaults camera doesn't propably do much any sharpening.
Also you can get very accurate smallest details by using RAW and for example free RAWShooter Essentials. (camera's internal processing isn't best possible)


Oh yeah... definitely good choise to take A2 when you had the chance. Still after 2 years there's nothing with similar features, even other EVFs are still equally lousy as two years ago.


Mbrad440 wrote:
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I plan on downloading to a laptop as I go rather than take the chance of something going wrong.
Now remember to take backups also to CD/DVD because there's two kind hard drives: ones which have broken and others which aren't yet broken. (especially laptop HDs are in risk zone)
Actually for more data security you could burn two CDs/DVDs at once and send other copy to home in mail in case if you lost your stuff...
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Old Mar 28, 2006, 4:47 PM   #13
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I appreciate all the info. I now understand the F7 glitch. I'm deep in reading the manual and am anxious to try the ani-shake system in low light situations.

When I was in Budapest I went to a photo store and copied my CF card to a CD and even played it in the store to make sure it was copied right. When I am home I always burn my original pictures to a CD before I edit them.

Now I'm ready to get out and shoot some pictures. I'm also going to try and shoot some night pictures.
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Old Mar 29, 2006, 2:36 AM   #14
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How much AS helps depends on also from photographer, some have taken 1/10s shots at 200mm.
I would say that 1/30s is quite easy to get.


Oh, and remember to have little sturdier tripod...
"Thin plastics" Giottos I have should handle 3kg according to them but even A2 with BP-400 causes horizon to tilt...
(getting better tripod on Friday)


Remember to use good quality blancks and preferably store originals also in two places, like CDs and computer HD... Actually with best JPEG file size you'll want to go for DVDs.

(low quality blancks can deteriorate really fast)
http://www.cdr-zone.com/articles/rec...ty_page_1.html


So you're doing architecture trips? Budabest kinda says that.
If you like lakes you should visit also Nordic Countries... there's about 190 000 lakes (give or take few thousand) here in Finland only. (use maps.google.com to check satellite photos)
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Old Mar 31, 2006, 10:15 AM   #15
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I just got back from a short trip and found my BP-400 waiting for me. I must say it makes the camera much heavier but with increased battery power the trade off is worth it.

"So you're doing architecture trips? Budabest kinda says that.
If you like lakes you should visit also Nordic Countries"

I like to take pictures of "old world" cities and I especially like to shoot inside churches and cathedrals using available light. I've gotten pretty good shooting stained glass windows with available light and utilizing exposure compensation..Maybe next year we might try a trip to the land of Oden.

I also do some nature photography since I only live 45 minutes from the Great Smokie Mountains and we go hiking there quite a bit.

Spring has inally arrived here in east Tennessee and we're looking forward to warm weather activities.
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Old Mar 31, 2006, 1:48 PM   #16
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Mbrad440 wrote:
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I must say it makes the camera much heavier but with increased battery power the trade off is worth it.
But that weight is in right place making camera much more stable in hand...
And after using it some time take BP-400 away and try camera without it, I bet you'll be putting BP-400 back very fast.


Central Europe is definitely very good place to photograph old architecture, cathedrals, castles and such.
Oden... Doesn't sound familiar, but with "i" instead of "e" it would be more familiar.


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Spring has inally arrived here in east Tennessee and we're looking forward to warm weather activities.
I assume that your spring means something around 70F.

Here spring means that couple feets of snow is starting to melt away now...
And this is what "fresh air" means here:

That's in Celsius degrees but that should be about -25F.
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Old Apr 3, 2006, 10:17 AM   #17
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Back to the cord issue, yes that cord is pure standard stuff. You can pick up an european one in any flight shop, warehouse electricsdept. or photo/TV store in Europe.

No need for a special KM one, it's just mains wiring.
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Old Apr 3, 2006, 10:22 AM   #18
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Mbrad440 wrote:
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I just got back from a short trip and found my BP-400 waiting for me. I must say it makes the camera much heavier but with increased battery power the trade off is worth it.
What adds weight is if you use AA cells.

The Li-Ion battery packs are very lightweight.

Mostly what the BP-400 adds is bulk and helps doubling Li-Ion capacity. But it makes the camera grow a bit and makes it in proportion to the lens. I prefer it with the grip except some cases where I want to be as little noticed as possible
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Old Apr 11, 2006, 10:09 AM   #19
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I just got back from a trip and I have been playing with my "new" to me A2. I've noticed the the A2 unlike most DSLR's and my Nikkon (film) doesn't have a light meter built in. I'm taking a photo workshop and we are setting in M manual mode and playing with the apeture and shutter speed settings. since I don't have a internal light meter it's hard to tell whether I'm under/over exposed. I have also noted when in Pa or Ps mode whichever you change i.e. apeture then it changes the shutter speed to correct. It would seem to me that the Pa/Ps mode would be more preferable than shooting in manual mode. One person has suggested that I get an external light meter to hang around my neck like some of the pros do. I think this is in someway self defeating and definately doen't fully utilize the cspslities of the A2. I am trying to get a little more creative in my photos like shooting with wide open f stop exposure when you want to narrow the depth of field.

I know this is basic stuff to some of you but you never can learn unless you ask questions. I really appreciate all the advise you guys have given. I have the BP-400 and it works as advertise and it does provide stability when shooting.
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Old Apr 11, 2006, 1:16 PM   #20
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Mbrad440 wrote:
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I've noticed the the A2 unlike most DSLR's and my Nikkon (film) doesn't have a light meter built in. I'm taking a photo workshop and we are setting in M manual mode and playing with the apeture and shutter speed settings. since I don't have a internal light meter it's hard to tell whether I'm under/over exposed.
You have realtime histogram which tells much more
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