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Old Dec 11, 2009, 8:14 AM   #11
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Torgny: Three things you can try –

1. Point your camera directly at the rocks. Press the release button halfway, then recompose and shoot. It will give you the correct exposure for the rocks, (but will probably overexpose the sky).

2. If your camera has adjustable contrast or DR, go into the menus and reduce contrast or increase DR.

3. In Photoshop, go to Image > Adjustments > Shadows/Highlights, and move the Shadow slider to the right to lighten shadows and improve detail.

Or, if you are proficient in PS, select the sky, invert the selection so that the foreground is selected, and use an adjustment layer to increase the brightness and contrast of the foreground.
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Old Dec 11, 2009, 7:12 PM   #12
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Torgny: Three things you can try –

1. Point your camera directly at the rocks. Press the release button halfway, then recompose and shoot. It will give you the correct exposure for the rocks, (but will probably overexpose the sky).

2. If your camera has adjustable contrast or DR, go into the menus and reduce contrast or increase DR.

3. In Photoshop, go to Image > Adjustments > Shadows/Highlights, and move the Shadow slider to the right to lighten shadows and improve detail.

Or, if you are proficient in PS, select the sky, invert the selection so that the foreground is selected, and use an adjustment layer to increase the brightness and contrast of the foreground.

neilcrichton,

Thanks for your readiness (you say?). 1, 2, 3 are in use every day. I'll try layers in PSCS4. Costs a lot of money. Must learn how to use it.

Perhaps i can contact you if I have questions on use of layers in this context

You know, these pictures would show very little colour in the shadow areas even if the shadows were properly exposed since there was very little light.

The darker, the less colour visible even for the eyes. What about colours then?

Well, thank you very much. I'll work on this

Torgny

Btw I checked my cameras and one of them had +1 in contrast. Don't really know how much that does.

Last edited by Torgny; Dec 11, 2009 at 7:23 PM.
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Old Dec 12, 2009, 8:12 AM   #13
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Had some fun with your first shot (hope you don't mind). Used shadows/highlights - highlights about 15%, shadows about 20%. Did a curves adjustment to increase brightness and contrast slightly. Colour balance was tricky. Looked excessively blue/cyan to me, so I reduced blue across the board, and green in the highlights and midtones. Still looked a bit blue in the rocks until I realized that the lichens on the rocks are probably blue in colour. Finally, added a very small amount of sharpening. Any more than a little made it look oversharpened.

Your camera seems to control noise well at 1600 ISO.
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Old Dec 12, 2009, 11:31 AM   #14
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Torgny there is a very good program called Dynamic Photo HDR where you can make pseudo HDR picture out of only one picture. I use option when I make HDR pictures of boats on the water, as they always move in different directions and therefor it is "impossible" to do a full HDR with 3 or more pictures. It's actually makes pretty good pseudo HDR's.
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Old Dec 12, 2009, 2:22 PM   #15
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Had some fun with your first shot (hope you don't mind). Used shadows/highlights - highlights about 15%, shadows about 20%. Did a curves adjustment to increase brightness and contrast slightly. Colour balance was tricky. Looked excessively blue/cyan to me, so I reduced blue across the board, and green in the highlights and midtones. Still looked a bit blue in the rocks until I realized that the lichens on the rocks are probably blue in colour. Finally, added a very small amount of sharpening. Any more than a little made it look oversharpened.

Your camera seems to control noise well at 1600 ISO.

Neil,

Yes, sky colour can be tricky. Thank you very much, you handled this picture file with care. Generally it's too bright though.

I think the "photographic truth" for the picture as a whole is somewhere in between the first picture and your tweak

Wish you a nice weekend

Torgny
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Old Dec 12, 2009, 2:27 PM   #16
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Torgny there is a very good program called Dynamic Photo HDR where you can make pseudo HDR picture out of only one picture. I use option when I make HDR pictures of boats on the water, as they always move in different directions and therefor it is "impossible" to do a full HDR with 3 or more pictures. It's actually makes pretty good pseudo HDR's.

Alasdair,

Thank you very much for the tip. I'll try it out as soon as I get access to the program

Hilsen

Torgny
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