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kitt3n Oct 3, 2005 12:28 PM

Hi there,

I'm a newbie in playing around with my fz5. I'm experimenting with making macro shots, but it appears difficult to get the camera to focus (the autofocus is adjusting all the time but it keeps blurry).

A basic question, should I put the object close to the lense (5 cm?) without zooming - or should I put my object far away (1m?) and zoom in to 12x?

And other tips on how to make these extreme close-ups?


tclune Oct 3, 2005 12:35 PM

The main thing I would suggest is to make sure the image has enough light. Macro shots seem to like more light than normal images. Auto-focussing doing a lot of hunting often suggests that there isn't enough light, and I don't know whether the assist light will be of much use in macro mode. FWIW

kitt3n Oct 4, 2005 4:42 AM

Hmm.. not enough light - that might be... I was trying to shootinside.

I'll try again somewhere with better light, thanks for the advice :)

JimC Oct 4, 2005 12:03 PM

With your model, you'll get smaller frame coverage (able to "fill the frame" with a smaller area) at it's wide angle position. But, this is also where you'll have more barrel distortion and edge softness, not to mention lighting difficulties from shooting from a closer distance (since the camera can cast a shadow).

At the longer end of your lens (more optical zoom), you will not be able to "fill the frame" with a subject as small (you'll need to capture a larger area). But, you'll have less problems with barrel distortion and edge softness (although camera shake will be magnified more).

So, there are pros and cons to doing it either way.

As for the focus distances, there do seem to be some descrepancies between some of the specifications.

For example, we're showing slightly further distances are required:

Wide: 0.16 feet; Tele: 6.56 feet-Infinity

Although, this could just be a mistake in the marketing specs Fuji sent us for this model, perhaps when someone was converting the distances from meters to feet (or vice-versa if the specs we show are correct).

You'll need to experiment to see how close you can actually focus, and make sure you've got enough light.

You may also find that despite Image Stabilization, focusing is difficult at longer focal lengths, since camera shake is magnified and the camera needs to use the signal generated by the CCD to "see" contrast in a subject to focus. You may also see motion blur from camera shake at longer focal lengths indoors (or even shorter focal lengths indoors for that matter, if light is too low).

A tripod is usually recommended for macros.

BillDrew Oct 4, 2005 8:50 PM

First figure out if it is shake (a tripod should fix that) or lack of focus on the subject. Try a shot with stuff at various distances from the camera. If it is shake, everything will be blurry. If it is lack of focus, something should be in focus - just not what you wanted.

More light will let your camera focus better andyou will be using a faster shutter speed so there should be less shake.

Unless you get enough light to shoot at something like 1/100~1/500 sec, you will want a tripod to get reliable lack of shake.

sedges Oct 6, 2005 8:48 PM

I take a lot of plant photos(botanist). Autofocus has difficulty with anything that is not solid. For me it is a flower that has a lot space it in. The autofocus will focus on the background. Focus through it, in other words. It has forced me to get used to using manual focus.

The other issue that the close to the lens or zoom to close up choice brings up is the depth of focus. When your lens is focused in close the depth of focus will be narrow. If the object you are photographing has a lot of depth(not relatively flat) parts of it may be out of focus. When the lens is zoomed out the depth of focus increases. If you focus on something in the middle (distance wise) of the subject, parts close and further away from the lense are more likely to be in focus using the zoom.

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