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Old Dec 31, 2008, 3:54 PM   #31
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NHL wrote:
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DarkDTSHD wrote:
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But when bracketing why would you still be using EC? Assuming you're in any of the 4 shooting modes. I would have thought the EC would be set to 0 (obviously I have not tried the auto bracketing feature).
Because like you I may be shooting a white bird... (i.e. 0 may not be the correct value)
If I had set my camera on 0 then @ 0EC the resulting image would have been overexposed and +1EC would be even 1-stop worse overexposed and -1EC may end up the only shot that could be useable!

-> I intentionally moved my entire bracketing sequence darker by -.7EV making it center on my (bright) white subject then if I goofed I can then used my +0.3EC image to recover the detail in the shadow areas (or extract more headroom from the overblown area by using the -1.7EC image) with HDR...
I didn't know you could make an entire bracketing sequence darker or lighter. Or that it was even necessary. I assumed that once you set some bracketing values (3-5) you were set for any shooting situation. That the camera would meter Scene A and fire off 5 shots at said values. And do the same using the same values for Scene B. And so on. Thanks for explaining.
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Old Jan 1, 2009, 9:51 AM   #32
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It also goes without saying that if you have bracketed your shots in Manual (i.e. only the brightness has changed with Auto-ISO) then in CS4 you can auto-align your images (even handheld) on several layers and perform various masks on the detail areas you're missing from the different exposed frames...
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Old Jan 20, 2009, 1:12 PM   #33
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Just noticed a filters software from Tiffen called Dfx (http://www.tiffen.com/dfx_v2_home.html).

Assuming you have a shot with seriously blown highlights no software is going to help us get back the detail. What's gone is gone. That, software like Dfx is really only good if we just want to change the look of a photo. Add color where there wasn't previously. Etc. But not in an attempt to do any real correction (though, that would depend on how blown the highlights are, for example). Correct?

Would save us the trouble of having to carry a boat load of filters into the field. And save us tons of money on filters in general. To have all the different varieties of filters offered by Tiffen for a nominal cost. Not needing to buy a "warming polarizer" for every lens in your collection for example. Though, using software such as Dfx, I don't think we could remove reflections in the glass as we could if we were using an actual CPL filter...though, maybe we could still Photoshop it out.

And would probably come in handy for those days when we forget to bring the needed filters for the job. Or just didn't have our cameras dialed in as properly as it should have been. Due to lack of experience or time.
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Old Jan 20, 2009, 4:59 PM   #34
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Deleted. Sorry!

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Old Jan 20, 2009, 5:04 PM   #35
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Hello Greg,

JohnG misunderstood. He assumed you couldn't dial in some EC while in M mode (with Auto ISO on). NHL explained this already to JohnG. Scroll up. I mean I did it. As has NHL and probably most other D300 owners.

Any how have a good one!

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Old Jan 20, 2009, 5:06 PM   #36
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DarkDTSHD wrote:
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Hello Greg,

Actually you CAN. NHL explained this already to JohnG. Scroll up. But I know what you are saying in that you can adjust "exposure comp" by adjusting the aperture or shutter speed. But you can also use the EC button and main control dial as well while in M mode.

Cheers!
I saw that AFTER posting what I did, so I just deleted it hoping no one saw it!
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Old Jan 20, 2009, 5:38 PM   #37
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Thanks Greg. Now I don't feel so bad
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