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Old Oct 28, 2003, 5:45 PM   #11
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It's a six of one, half dozen of the other sitution...no one digital camera has every feature you would want.

For instance, if you don't need the long zoom the C-5050 has a focus assist beam, but if you want the long zoom the C-750 doesn't have focus assist (you can add it to the 750 with the FL-40 flash, but it costs almost as much as the camera...but it's a very good flash). You can always use the manual focus, but the focus is controlled electronically with a scale, and the camera digitally zooms in while you focus.

Some other ultra zoom brands do have some focus assist, but it's only good for 10 feet anyway (the distance that can be reached by the internal flash). As for fireworks, focus assist would be useless anyway (you just focus manually to infinity for those).

You do have to learn a few things, for instance to counteract handshake with long zooms you have to be 1/focal length for the shutter speed (380mm focal length means you should be 1/400th shutter speed).
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Old Oct 28, 2003, 8:01 PM   #12
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whats more important wide or long?
i own a 1Ds and my second "smaller" one is going to be a minolta A1. ordering it up next week at around $800. it feels like an slr and act like one too. i does have IS. its lens range is outstanding in scope at 28 wide to 200 long. which almost covers the same range as the lenses of my 1Ds all in one. it uses CF memory which is the standard for DSLRs unlike the smaller cameras that tend towards memory types like SD or xD. they currently cost more per MB then CF does too.

there are many feature in this camera that make it superior for people who have worked with SLRs before.
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Old Oct 29, 2003, 11:38 AM   #13
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I hadn't looked at the Minolta A1 but just went and did a quickie check. It does sound like a real nice camera. The only thing it doesn't have that I wanted was a fully tilting/rotating lcd. This one only tilts upwards, which seems sort of wierd to me. I can't picture when I'd use that. It would have been more useful to have it tilt down for shooting over your head. What I really wanted was the one that flips to the side as I have a kid who just does not like to have his photo taken and I could see myself using that feature alot to get rear and side shots of him.

I also would want to know about the focus-in-low-light issue.

Otherwise, it would seem the perfect camera. Certainly has an excellent zoom range, going higher than I was going for (28 - 150).

I will definitely be checking it out more. Thanks for the suggestion.

So, tell me, do you want this one just because it's smaller and more portable for times when you don't want to pack your 1DS around?
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Old Oct 29, 2003, 1:58 PM   #14
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the tilt up is like a TLR camera allowing you to look down from above especially while shooting macro and low mode tripod shots. the eyepiece also does this. the flipout turnaround feature is rather limited in its use. in order to even assume the position of vertical you have to flip it out to the side and then flip it up. and this is the position that will be used about 90% of the time doing macro giving the camera a larger profile. the position is the normal look on the back of the camera view.

if your 6 ft away from someone shooting an image do you think they can really see a 2in monitor that good? i mean its good if your shooting pictures of yourself at arms length.

the camera does pretty good in addition it has the ability to manual focus using the inner ring just like a real camera.

http://www.pbase.com/crusader/mms

these are concert shots taken in a small low light room. the torch light in the corner was the only light source along with the built-in flash. done with a 7Hi the previous model to the A1
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Old Oct 29, 2003, 3:17 PM   #15
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>>if your 6 ft away from someone shooting an image do you think they can really see a 2in monitor that good<<

No, that's my point. I don't want him to know I'm taking the photo.
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Old Oct 29, 2003, 4:22 PM   #16
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so you shoot wide off the hip and and crop for centering. you just have to learn your lenses coverage. been there done that too many times.

remember that it is one of about 4 digicams that have a true WA lens. and supposedly the fastest AAF of its class as of the moment. subject to change without notice of course.
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Old Oct 29, 2003, 5:31 PM   #17
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Hi Gwen,

E20 has easy learning curve.

There is a awesome price for one here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=43457

Check it out!

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Old Oct 29, 2003, 8:43 PM   #18
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Red-eye removal, available in softwares Paint Shop Pro and Photo Shop, is easy and excellent.

I used a Canon SLR for years before I went digital, and with the SLR, I often encountered red eye because I didn't develop my own film.

Now I/we can remove it. No problem. A digital dark room is now at our fingertips + afforable photo printers.
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Old Oct 30, 2003, 9:38 AM   #19
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I just don't feel that red eye removal in edit is an acceptable alternative.

First of all, on some rolls, every photo will have red eye. I really don't want to waste my time fixing them all.

Secondly, in edit, you don't end up with the true color of the person's eyes. Usually you end up with some kind of dark brown looking eyes. When you subjects have blue and green eyes, that's what you want the picture to reflect. And not just any fake blue color.

Even if I *did* want to mess with it in edit, as a person new to this, it would take me a long time to perfect it and in the meantime, all those shots are ruined.

This is the one single feature I'm adamant about. I refust to settle for red eye, and so I just use a good external flash and eliminate it. I used a sunpack flash for years and years on my Canon AT-1 and never once have had a red eye photo. The tilting flash also gave me a lot of flexibility when shooting with flash and for me, that's the way to go.

Now I just have to find out if Sunpak makes flashes for digicams. I'm sure they do.

Gwen
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Old Oct 30, 2003, 9:48 AM   #20
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the available strobes for the A1 have all the features you want and a few more too. both minolta and sigma make strobes for it.
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