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Old Jul 12, 2010, 2:58 PM   #1
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Okay so I have a Nikon D5000, and was wondering how to take the waterfall pictures. I know how to take firework photos, but that dose not seem to work the same for daylight. I have a setting on the camara for waterfalls, but it is not what I want, I want the really blured/smooth looking ones.
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Old Jul 12, 2010, 3:00 PM   #2
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Sturdy tripod. Long exposure times. EV accordingly.
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Old Jul 12, 2010, 3:17 PM   #3
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I know that much. I have the tripod. I just do not know what setting to put it on. I got good firework photos, but that setting dose not seem to work during the day.
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Old Jul 12, 2010, 6:04 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinkbunnys18 View Post
I know that much. I have the tripod. I just do not know what setting to put it on. I got good firework photos, but that setting dose not seem to work during the day.
I love to have reference material with me at all times. so i load my ipod touch with all kinds of apps. the most useful exposure app i've found is not called "Exposure". That one doesn't have many situations.

Now, I don't want to be seen as a shill, so take a look at
http://forums.steves-digicams.com/ne...at-sheets.html
if you're interested. Various "cheat-sheets" exist and are mentioned in that thread.
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Old Jul 12, 2010, 6:32 PM   #5
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You want a slower shutter speed so you get the smoky look to the water. 1/3 or 1/4 second should do it. Even 1/2 a second should be enough. Just be careful not to overexpose the surroundings. If you cant close your aperture enough then use an ND filter.
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Old Jul 13, 2010, 2:11 PM   #6
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thanks for your help.
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Old Jul 13, 2010, 9:16 PM   #7
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If you have aperature priority, set it to the smallest possible value (largest f/number). To get an even slower shutter speed, shoot near sunrise/sunset. The light level is lower and colors are enhanced.
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Old Jul 13, 2010, 10:31 PM   #8
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I do several things. Take a of test photo initially, and see what the camera wants to use. I usually always use ISO 100 - increases quality (decreases noise) and does not make the sensor as light sensitive, which in and of itself will use a slower shutter speed. As Bill has posted, stopping down the aperture to f16 or so will let in less light and again force the shutter to a longer exposure. After each adjustment, take another test photo, until your happy with the result. This is also a good learning experience, so that when your back at the computer looking at the results, also look at the EXIF data file noting what you changed from shot to shot, and the effect that it had.
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Old Jul 14, 2010, 12:34 AM   #9
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If the rest of the scene is fairly static, you can also take several underexposed shots, and add them together in a photo editor. Some cameras allow you to do this without the editing software.

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