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Old Dec 17, 2011, 10:46 AM   #1
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first dslr - came with the efs 18-55 kit lens and EF 50mm 1.8 II lens. Right now looking at pics at karate tournaments - which would I use and why. Will look at upgrading later when I have more understanding.

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Old Dec 17, 2011, 11:31 AM   #2
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How close can you get to the competition mat and what is the lighting like at the place of competition? Are you allowed to use a flash? At my last tournament I saw a lot of parents with kit lens and using the flash on their DSLRs.
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Old Dec 17, 2011, 11:38 AM   #3
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school gyms. I can the the sparring ring but prefer distance so I don't distract my kid. If using the kit lens in good. What would you use the 50mm for? I understand it is a (very) good lens
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Old Dec 17, 2011, 12:30 PM   #4
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Bring both your lenses and switch them out to see how each performs. That's one of the greatest advantages of the dSLR. Take a ridiculous number of shots to see what the camera does in different situations.

Having said that, the nifty fifty will be the lens of choice for this event. 50mm will be wide enough to capture the subject, and is the brightest lens in your kit. Don't expect the on-board flash to reach out far enough. It maxes out at about 12'.

But you'll find all of that out for yourself quickly. The real questions will be 'how do I get the wife to let me buy that L lens?".
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Old Dec 17, 2011, 3:00 PM   #5
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The nifty fifty is pretty good. It doesn't seem to focus particularly fast on my Canon Rebel XT (350D). You'll have to test it out on your T3i to see how it performs. With the 50mm I find that I have to move myself in and out to zoom. If there are many spectators crowding around the mat, then it may not be practical as I'll be bumping into people.

From the edge of the mat with the 50mm f1.8.



I don't think my wife will let me get the Canon EF-S 17-55mm F2.8 IS.
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Old Dec 17, 2011, 6:42 PM   #6
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At about 50mm, the kit lens will have an aperture of about f/5.6. In order to get fast shutter speeds, you'd need to use a really high ISO setting.

There are better lenses for what you want to do, but between the two, I thnk you'll get better results from the 50/1.8.
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Old Dec 17, 2011, 10:46 PM   #7
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Just to point out that there is no free lunch in photography, if you use the 50mm wide open, your depth of field is going to be very small, so your focus will have to be very exact.
If you can use it, an external flash will give you better pictures than a fast lens without flash.

brian
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Old Dec 17, 2011, 11:04 PM   #8
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The 50 1.8 is slow to focus and hunts in bad lighting. So expect allot of missed focus shots. The 17-55 2.8 is a nice lens, but looking at your shot, losing a stop of performance will increase your motion blur that you have already.

Your best best is a ef 50 1.4. It does focus faster. And give you a 1/3 of a stop more. Helping you decrease motion blur with the poor gym lighting.

And with a camera that can shoot well at 3200iso. Should help with motion blur a bit more.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_spock View Post
The nifty fifty is pretty good. It doesn't seem to focus particularly fast on my Canon Rebel XT (350D). You'll have to test it out on your T3i to see how it performs. With the 50mm I find that I have to move myself in and out to zoom. If there are many spectators crowding around the mat, then it may not be practical as I'll be bumping into people.

From the edge of the mat with the 50mm f1.8.



I don't think my wife will let me get the Canon EF-S 17-55mm F2.8 IS.
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Last edited by shoturtle; Dec 18, 2011 at 12:24 AM.
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Old Dec 18, 2011, 12:20 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VTphotog View Post
Just to point out that there is no free lunch in photography, if you use the 50mm wide open, your depth of field is going to be very small, so your focus will have to be very exact.
If you can use it, an external flash will give you better pictures than a fast lens without flash.

brian
And the 50mm 1.4 or 1.8 doesn't hit their best sharpness until f2.8. If you have the exposure room during the actual event conditions, stop the lens down to 2, 2.4, or 2.8. Sometimes I will set the camera to spot metering and then aim at a high contrast item to get the autofocus to work better.
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