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|Dec 4, 2004, 12:17 PM||#1|
Join Date: Nov 2004
I was wondering how I can get the light meter reading from my Fujifilm S5500. *I just bought a gray card because i'm terrible at setting exposures, and the two ways i know how to use it are shooting the gray card and check the histogram, or to take the light meter reading and adjust the camera accordingly. *How do i do that? On which mode?
|Dec 4, 2004, 1:56 PM||#2|
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Savannah, GA (USA)
Well, you *can* use a grey card for metering (but many users find this to be cumbersome in changing lighting conditions).
You'll need to go toManual Exposure mode on your model (M on your mode dial).
Then, I'd suggest changing your metering to spot (go into your setup menu and change"Photometry" to Spot). This means that your camera is only using a small spot for metering.
Make sure the Grey card is in the same lighting as your intended subject, and set the Aperture and Shutter Speed until the needle is inthe center of the scale on your display while pointing at the grey card. You can see how to do this on this page, where the Manual Record option is discussed.
Here is what your LCD will look like (note the scale in the bottom right hand corner, you'll want the needle centered for proper exposure):
Reframe with your subject where you want it, then take the photo as you normally would (letting the camera focus with a half press until you get focus lock, then pressing the shutter button the rest of the way down is how many users shoot).
Just keep in mind that lighting conditions can change quickly, so the aperture/shutter speed settings you chose may not be appropriate for very long (and you'll need to be very careful that you meter the card in exactly the same lighting your subject has).For example, if your subject is in a shadow (or at a different angle to the light source), and you metered the card indifferent light, you can get an improperly exposed subject.
Note that depending on the camera's metering, this method may not be foolproof, either. Your camera's metermay lean towards underexposure or overexposure. So,you may need to experiment to make sure you understand it's behavior (you may need to set your exposure slightly under or over the center point on the scale for best results).
Depending on how fast the lighting is changing, and the type of subject you are photographing, you may find it easier to use other techniques to get proper exposure (i.e, bracketing, use of histogram, etc.). Use of a grey card is going to be very dependent on your subject having the exact same lighting as the card.
Also, if you have areas of your image that are illuminated differently than the card, you can end up withoverexposed areas and underexposed areas.So, you'll still have a dynamic range limitation to deal with.Only areas of the image with the same light as the grey card had when you set your exposure will be properly exposed.
|Dec 9, 2004, 3:43 PM||#3|
Join Date: Aug 2004
Dear JimC (or other knowledgable guru-type):
I know this should be its own thread, but I'm intentionally
burying it in here, just in case I have my research wrong. :roll:
I've been a moderately competent SLR user for a decade or so.
I have the basic working knowledge. I know why I might want
to close down the aperture a stop, and I know that'll require
slowing the shutter a stop. But I never really advanced much
beyond that stage. For one thing, I've been put off by the
traditional base two log scales, with no units, or circularly
defined units like "EV". Ok, ok, 1 EV doubles or halves the
exposure, but that just means it's a base two log scale.
Anyway, I'm going digital, not in a big way, but I have a
nice littleS5100 waiting for me under the xmas tree.
So, I've been studying up. I've read the manual (in PDF)
cover-to-cover (if a PDF can be said to have covers) more
than once. I've been reading the FujiFilm forum here.
Then one day I read a reply by a fellow namedTom LaPrise,
explaining to someone how, when photographing the moon,
one should think of it as a sunny landscape and use the
Sunny 16 rule as a starting point. Well, that just seemed
so damned clever, and I started to envy this Tom LaPrise
for his deeper understanding of photography.
"...sunny 16 rule, what the heck's that, how come
no one ever told me about that..." <grumble, grumble>
There was only one thing to do, I fired up Google and
set about educating myself.
Now, I have this habit, whenstudying anything
of a mathematical nature, of testing my
knowledge by trying to teachwhat I've learned
(or think I've learned)to my computer in the form of
some little spreadsheet-like program.
So now, a week or so later, I think, maybe that
my computer and I have come to understand,
at least some of, the concepts.
But... who knows... Despite the somewhat professorial
tone I've taken in the little sidebars I've included,
my little spreadsheet could be, well... full of it.
So... my request... would you have a look?
I'll attempt to attach it as a zip.
Now let me be the first to point out that you'ld be a fool
to download an executable file if you're not running
a virus scanner c/w latest signature files.
No, the world doesn't need yet another little freeware
exposure calculator. I'ld just like to know whether
I got it right.There are no special system requirements,
any Windows system should do, though it might look
a little funky at anything less than 1024 resolution.
If JimC hasn't the time, maybe someone else would
take a peek for me. Thanks in advance!
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