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Old Mar 26, 2006, 7:12 PM   #1
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Hi,

I am looking to find someone that can help me with the setting required for shooting the best action type shot.

I have the ISO set to 400, setting on P and no flash.

Why is part of the picture appear blurry?


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Old Mar 26, 2006, 7:13 PM   #2
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Here is another set at the same setting but much clearer. Why does this occur?
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Old Mar 26, 2006, 8:28 PM   #3
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The child is blurry in the first pic because the pic was shot at too low a shutter speed. In the second pic, you probably shot when the child was at or near the top of her bounce. When you jump, you move upward quickly at first, but then slow down and eventually stop when the energy of the jump is used up and you begin to fall back towards the ground. The shutter speed that the camera chose was fast enough to get a clean shot in the second picture (except the legs which were moving faster than the body) but not in the first picture when the child's motion was greater.

Try switching from "P" mode to "Tv" mode. This will let you set the shutter speed yourself. Try to use the highest shutter speed that you can to still come out with a well-exposed picture. How fast you can go will depend on the amount of light in the scene. Do some experiments and soon you will be a good judge of what shutter speed you should be using for a certain activity.

Grant
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Old Mar 27, 2006, 9:49 AM   #4
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Thank you for responding back.

Here is another picture taken with TV setting and 2 shutter speed.

What about aperature should I worry about thisfor action shots?

Do you know of any internet article on A,B,C's of picture taking, or picture taking for idiots.

Why when I take a picture is my file on 2 gigabytes and not 5, which is what the camera states.






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Old Mar 27, 2006, 11:52 AM   #5
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Hi Picture Novice,

The reason the 2nd pic is not blurred unlike the first is that when you took this shot your subject was at the top of the bounce thus periodically not moving. Due to this the shot is a lot better. You will notice that there is still some blur in the legs as they were not stationary. The first your subject is moving quickly so blurs out completely.

You have 2 choices for action shots and it is a 6 of one and half a dozen of the other situation. I personally shoot 90% of my sports work in Aperture Priority where others will use Shutter Priority. Which ever you choose you will need to keep an eye on the opposite setting to make sure that it is not out of the cameras range for for me I will make sure that the shutter is not getting close to either 1/4000 or below 1/500 which are the ranges for shooting good sports (my camera does not support over 1/4000). Why do I choose to go for Av rather than Tv, well that is because I like to be able to control the depth of field rather than having the same shutter speed for all shots. I will switch to Tv when shooting vehicles/bikes etc that are on the move and want to be able to inject some movement thus need to keep the shutter speed the same.

I would suggest setting the aperture as wide (low f number ie f2.8-3.0) and letting the camera select the shutter speed.

Here are 2 examples of switching between Av and Tv, the first is to get a really shallow depth of field to blow the background out of focus whist freezing the action and the second is to allow some blur in the shot with the movement.

As for your last question the size of the image (Mb, Kb) does not reflect the amount of pixels (Megapixels). So 2Mb is about right for a compressed 5 Megapixel camera.

Hope that helps,

Mark

http://www.photographysmith.co.uk
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Old Mar 27, 2006, 11:54 AM   #6
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You could try something similar with the trampolining but setting the shutter to about 1/100 (I would try other settings from 1/60 - 1/250 as well) and tracking your subject. This might give an interesting effect by putting movement into the background.
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Old Mar 27, 2006, 7:27 PM   #7
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Here are a few "general rules:

Camera Shake Rule
A rule-of-thumb for the slowest shutter speed at which you can safely handhold a camera is one over the focal length of the lens. As shutter speeds get slower, camera shake is likely to result in an increasing loss of sharpness. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. Not enough light to do that? Use flash, a tripod, or brace your camera (and yourself) against a solid object.
[line] Anatomical Gray Card
Metering off an 18% neutral gray card is a good way to get a midtone reading for good overall exposure of a scene. Don't have a gray card? Hold your open hand up so it's facing the light, and take a reading off your palm. Open up one stop from that, and go ahead and shoot at that setting (note: the variety of human skin tones rarely account for even a full-stop difference).
[line] Action-Stopping Rules
To stop action that's moving across the frame perpendicular to the lens axis, you need a shutter speed two-stops faster than if the same action was moving toward (or away) from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one-stop slower. Example: If the action of a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/250, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/1000 to stop the same subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/125 to stop action if they are moving diagonally with respect to the camera.

Grant
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Old Apr 2, 2006, 2:24 PM   #8
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How can I identify what size lens I have?

My camera is a Canon S2 1s


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Old Apr 2, 2006, 2:32 PM   #9
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I have a couple of questions regarding your explanation on shutter speed.

I have been playing with the camera for action shots. I am finding better picture quality when I adjust in TV mode.

I do not understand your terms in your explanation

Terms

"two-stops faster"

"one-stop slower"

How do you stop an object? What does this term mean?









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Old Apr 2, 2006, 11:33 PM   #10
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picture_novice wrote: How can I identify what size lens I have?

According to literature for this camera, it has a zoom range in 35mm equivalent of from
36-432mm. I'm not sure if this is what you mean by "what size".

Also: I do not understand your terms in your explanation

Terms

"two-stops faster"

"one-stop slower"

How do you stop an object? What does this term mean?

The term "stop" is a carry-over from mechanical film camera days. It doesn't really refer to an object, it refers to camera settings. A "stop" means either a doubling or halving of the amount of light used in an exposure. It means essentially the same thing as "exposure value" (EV). For example, an aperture setting of f/11 is one stop "faster" (meaning an increase in the amount of light) than an aperture setting of f/16. A setting of f/11 is also one stop "slower" (meaning a decrease in the amount of light) than a setting of f/8.

This makes more sense if you look at the aperture ring markings on the lens of an SLR-type camera. All the numbers marked on the ring are in approximately one stop increments. The term "stop" means the same thing for shutter speed. A shutter setting of 1/125 second is one stop less than 1/250 and ~ one stop more than 1/60.

I'm not sure how the word "stop" came to be associated with this concept. If I had to guess, I'd say that it came from the action of the aperture ring and shutter speed dial on the old, mechanical cameras. You turn them and they move easily between settings, but then "stop" when they reach the next setting. This is probably completely bogus, but it sounds good.

picture_novice, I hope that you aren't more confused than before!

Grant


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