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Cameraz Mar 21, 2011 3:59 AM

Nikon D7000 - Sharp Pictures
Hello D7000 users,

Im new to nikon cameras, previously was using a canon t2i....i feel D7000 is a very complex camera.. and i need to learn alot...

To begin with can anyone give me the right settings for focus...i was in the dpreview website and most of them recommend to use 9 point focus instead of the 39 points...

so far im not happy with the pictures most of them are out of focus & not sharp images..

Also what is with the New 2016 pixel metering sensor.. what are advantages? and how different is it with other cameras.. canon.. etc... or is it just a marketing strategy....

Please help me as i want to improve my skills, i feel the camera is very strong with lots of features...


Graystar Mar 21, 2011 8:21 AM

Iíve found that many explanations in the Nikon manuals are complete and can be understood. However, their explanations are short and very dense with information. It is important to read the Nikon manual slowly, and to read every single word. If you try to skim the text then you wonít understand what theyíre saying.

The 9/21/39 point options of Dynamic Area AF have nothing to do with AutoFocus accuracy. Dynamic Area AF is used when you want to capture an erratically moving subject at your selected focus point.

Letís say you want to capture a bird in flight at the center of the viewfinder. But that bird is moving erratically and you can't keep it in the center (but you're still trying.) In order to keep the AF system from trying to focus on nothing when the bird slips away from the center focus point, you use Dynamic Area AF. With Dynamic Area AF, if the bird leaves the center focus point for a moment, the camera doesn't try to focus on nothing. Instead, it will recognize that the subject has moved, and keep the focus on that subject. The presumption, though, is that you're actively trying to get the subject (your bird) back to the center focus point. This is pretty much what page 94 of your manual says.

Note that with Dynamic AF you really should make an effort to catch the subject at the selected focus point because, even though the other focus points are helping to maintain focus, exposure is only based on the selected focus point. This is important for Matrix and Spot metering modes. Those 2016 pixels of the metering system help with autofocus and metering accuracy.

If youíre having a problem getting static objects sharp, then there might be a problem with the camera. The first thing you should do is fine tune the AF using the instructions on page 246 of your D7000 manual. The way to test your focus is to put your camera on a tripod, set up a flat target with some text, and take a LiveView picture and a non-LiveView picture. Use A mode and set aperture to f/8. Use a dark room and use the flash. The LiveView picture should always be sharp because it uses a different focusing process. The non-LiveView image should be as sharp as the LiveView. If not, then you may need to tune the AF. If itís really bad you may need to send your camera to Nikon for an adjustment (which is not unheard of.)

Slyfox Mar 21, 2011 8:36 AM

Lilacfire Mar 21, 2011 9:26 AM

I think it would help to know what you're shooting first.. a moving subject or a portrait or landscape.

All 3 will have different settings.

JohnG Mar 21, 2011 10:41 AM

Diagnosing your problem(s) is easier if we have more specifics about the shooting situations. So, provide an example of where you were unhappy with the results and post the shot you took as well. Having that information will allow people here to help you make adjustments.

DigMe Mar 21, 2011 10:46 AM


I think you would do well to google up some basic articles on shooting sharp pictures. Getting purposeful about sharpness should help. If your pics are mostly out of focus then it's most likely a technique issue unless there's a problem with your camera or lens. The former is more likely though. Best of luck.


Cameraz Mar 27, 2011 2:17 AM

thanks every one .. apologies for replying so late..

special thanks to graystar.. im not a bird shooter... but using the camera most of time for taking pictures of my kids & family

after reading the manuals.. i would say that the images have improved a bit.. most of the time i using single point af-s mode....

i have noticed that at low light conditions 105mm the live view mode is very slow.. it keeps trying to focus...but when i switch off live view .. it focuses quickly.. has anyone noticed this?

Mark1616 Mar 27, 2011 4:12 AM

The quick answer is that AF in live view isn't nearly as fast on any dSLR apart from Sony. I know on Canon there is a quick AF option which closes the shutter to use the normal AF system, this is what I usually use before doing anything with AF. After that I just manual focus.

For normal shooting you are best to use single focus point and one shot AF. I don't know what it is called on Nikon, but don't use servo mode otherwise as you move around the camera will keep trying to re focus.

quinton Mar 31, 2011 10:48 AM

Check here for settings..

Cameraz Apr 4, 2011 1:26 AM


Originally Posted by quinton (Post 1214040)
Check here for settings..

thanks using the settings recommended by Ken Rockwell....

BiGTooT Jun 15, 2011 10:41 PM


Originally Posted by quinton (Post 1214040)
Check here for settings..

thanks for the link..

tclune Jun 16, 2011 7:57 AM

I'm far from a master on these things, but my experience is that most of the action on sharpness is in the lens. There are at least two ways that this is important. First, if you're using a travel zoom, you are not going to get tack-sharp images. The lens is made for convenience, not crispness.

Second, I have found that you can use a lens in some contexts to good effect and in others it will disappoint. For example, I have a Tamron 90mm f/2.8 "portrait macro." The nickname says it all -- the lens is stellar for portraits and marco photography. It is probably the sharpest lens I own for those purposes. However, I sometimes use it as a short tele, and the lens is a disaster! For some reason, it just doesn't want to focus right in any but high-contrast situations when the subject is out 20-30 yards. I don't know what it is, but the lens always seems to give soft results in that kind of context. So I am starting to learn to stay out of those contexts, to steal an old joke's punchline.

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