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Old Jan 15, 2007, 4:26 PM   #1
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What is the best settings to use so the pictures do not blow out high lights? Or make trees look quite orangey coloured?
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Old Jan 15, 2007, 7:56 PM   #2
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Check your histogram and ensure the hump isn't bunched up on either the right or left margins. Right margin is overexposed, left is under exposed.

Use the various metering modes and the exposure compensation feature to adjust the exposure so the histogram hump is close to the right margin without piling up on it. "Shoot to the right"!

See Understanding Histograms for details.
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Old Jan 16, 2007, 6:17 AM   #3
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The D40's metering is closer to the D80 than the older DSLR's. Many expereinced nikon users feel that these cameras tend toward overexposure in Matrix, whereas the D70 and D50 tended toward slight underxposure.. Dialing in a little bit of EV compensation (-.3 or .7) should help. As was mentioned, check your histogram and adjust EV accordingly. You could also try shooting in Center weighted mode.
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Old Jan 16, 2007, 9:51 AM   #4
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Hi i have tried the setting at -3 seems to have helped with the blown high lighted areas but still getting very orange trees insome cases? Any help on this please.

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Old Jan 16, 2007, 10:58 AM   #5
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Check your white balance. Make sure you are using auto (or whatever is appropriate for your condition if you are manually setting it).
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Old Jan 16, 2007, 3:12 PM   #6
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There are some third party tone curves available for Nikon models that you may want to test, too.

For example, the "White Wedding Curve" from fotogenetic is popular with some Nikon users that have tried it.

Custom tone curves are designed to do something similar to using the curves function in an editor (where you may want to boost the mid tones without changing the highlights or shadows, etc.). So, they can give you a bit more flexibility in how the camera processes the jpeg images, over and above what you'd get using just settings like Exposure Compensation or Contrast alone. With a Nikon DSLR like your D40, you can load a custom tone curve into the camera that it will use to process the images.

I think this is probably the most underused feature of Nikon DSLR models (I rarely see the ability if Nikon models to use Custom Tone Curves discussed in the forums).

Another way to get a little more Dynamic Range is to shoot in raw and convert using ACR (Adobe Camera Raw). YMMV, depending on the image and raw converter used. But, ACR typically does a bit better job in retaining highlight detail compared to most other raw converters. If you're not shooting raw already, try a few raw converters and see if you find one that does what you want. Many have trial versions available (but, most probably don't support the D40 yet since it's too new).

Yet another way to get more Dynamic Range is to blend exposures (one exposed for the shadows and one exposed for the highlights). Some people do the same thing with one raw file (use the sliders to create one image from it exposed properly for shadows and then convert it again with the sliders set to correctly expose the highlights, then merge the two images into one).

Here is a tutorial on Exposure Blending:

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tu...blending.shtml

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