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Old Apr 22, 2010, 4:46 PM   #21
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Thanks again. There is no way I'll be able to swing a ton of money for a new lens - even if I return this camera/2 lens combo, so I'll keep hammering away till I figure it out at least enough to make myself happy. (or possibly swap up to the D5000 since I think it's what I really wanted anyway, and it appears to be slightly better in low-light than the D3000) No, I wouldn't expect it to fix all my problems, but every little bit helps.
It IS a little disapointing that it's this much more difficult to get the pictures from this camera than it was with my old Kodak point and shoot. I really figured I could go with full Auto and do well enough until I could learn more.
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Old Apr 23, 2010, 6:17 AM   #22
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I'm not sure about the D3000 but the D5000 has a lot of what they call Scene modes. Apart from the usual portrait ,landscape ,child,sports ,night portrait, they have a Scene setting which give you a dial in scene to another 13 scene settings.ie.autumn colours,beach/snow,candlelight etc.
I have only used "autumn colours" once to see what it did and it certainly boosted the colours. My guess is they are good for grab shots, if you're not sure what to do.
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Old Apr 23, 2010, 6:45 AM   #23
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Another thing I'm amazed about, is the fact that you can have a camera on trial for this amount of time.You're very lucky, over here in the U.K I dont know anywhere that would let you do that. I had to go to a great length to get my local dealer to allow me to put my own SD card in a camera, so that I could take the card home and check it out to see if I wanted to buy the camera.
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Beike carbon 4 section tripod/monopod
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Old Apr 23, 2010, 7:24 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by rctoyguy View Post
It IS a little disapointing that it's this much more difficult to get the pictures from this camera than it was with my old Kodak point and shoot. I really figured I could go with full Auto and do well enough until I could learn more.
As I mentioned in my first post to this thread when discussing things like using AF-C and Continuous Drive mode:

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You may also want to try using the Sports Mode with it (selecting the icon that looks like a runner on the mode dial) and see how it behaves that way (it might set those types of options for you).
Your camera does have some scene modes designed to alter it's behavior. Sports mode is one of them. Chances are, it's going to do things like prefer a wide open aperture to let more light through, set your focus mode to Continuous and more. But, some cameras are better than others in that respect (how well a Sports Scene mode works). So, you'd have to try it to see if it sets ISO speeds high enough and allows you to get fast enough shutter speeds to freeze action (or not).

Just keep in mind that your lens is going to limit you in some lighting (and no settings can get around that part, as if you don't have a bright enough lens for the lighting, ISO speed and available apertures, your shutter speeds may not be fast enough to freeze rapid movement). Note that in your case, simply changing the ISO speed to 1600 would have probably given you some usable photos at smaller viewing sizes if you were carefully panning with your subjects (as you would have probably gotten around 1/250 second versus 1/60 second with some of them). That's still not as fast as desired, and you'd probably see some blur from subject movement. But, that's a lot better than 1/60 second, which is what you were getting with ISO 400. ;-)

But even if Sports Mode does handle some of the desired camera settings for you (and you'd have to try it to see how it behaves in lower light), for better results in more conditions, it's better to learn how to change those types of settings yourself.

As for the D5000 versus the D3000, the D5000 is better in some areas (for example, lower noise as ISO speeds are increased). But, regardless of the camera model you select, you'll still need to learn how to use it for best results (not only camera settings, but using better composition, being aware of your focus point, using better technique for panning with moving subjects, being aware of lighting conditions that can cause exposure issues, blur from subject movement and more). In the case of low light sports, this type of photography is very demanding on the equipment and photographer.
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Old Apr 28, 2010, 10:36 PM   #25
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I went ahead and made the swap. Now I've got the D5000 (same lenses) and I am thrilled with it.
The combination of the advice from here, trying to pay more attention to what I'm doing, and maybe a little better camera, all add up to a good thing for me.

I obviously still need a lot of help, but I feel much better now. Thanks!
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Old Apr 29, 2010, 6:24 AM   #26
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Very good! Good luck with it. And come back and post some samples of your successes.
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Old Jun 8, 2010, 6:08 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rctoyguy View Post
I went ahead and made the swap. Now I've got the D5000 (same lenses) and I am thrilled with it.
The combination of the advice from here, trying to pay more attention to what I'm doing, and maybe a little better camera, all add up to a good thing for me.

I obviously still need a lot of help, but I feel much better now. Thanks!
Any pics then?
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Old Jun 9, 2010, 12:04 AM   #28
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Sorry - been having too much fun with this camera. Here are a few











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Old Jun 9, 2010, 4:43 AM   #29
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Brilliant pics!
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Old Jun 9, 2010, 7:06 AM   #30
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rctoyguy - Your exposure settings are all over the place: from 1/2000" at F/7.0 and ISO 1250, to 1/100" at f/4.5 and ISO 2500. What were you using?
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