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Old Feb 15, 2005, 11:46 AM   #11
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Gotcha. Too bad you can't take a lens out for a test spin. If this were an $1,800 jalopy sitting on the lot they would be thrilled to have me try it.

Question: is a Nikon F1/8 lens a NIkon F1/8 lens no matter what the price? That is, is the quality consistent. I ask this because, as you know there oftenare thousands of dollars of difference in lenses with the same lowest Fstop. Perhaps the difference is due to only to auxillaryfeatures but I don't know.

Thanks!:-)




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Old Feb 15, 2005, 2:58 PM   #12
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SPORTSHOOTER wrote:
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Question: is a Nikon F1/8 lens a NIkon F1/8 lens no matter what the price? That is, is the quality consistent. I ask this because, as you know there often are thousands of dollars of difference in lenses with the same lowest Fstop. Perhaps the difference is due to only to auxillary features but I don't know.
You can do it by MTF charts - pretty much quantifiable and measurable, but only in sharpness and contrast. Nothing about CA and distortion though or anything about in between focal lenghts measurement(in a zoom) - Fine for fixed focal lenght though...

You can get MTF charts for most manufacturers :idea:
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Old Feb 15, 2005, 3:38 PM   #13
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Most products that are measurabke (ex., lbs, karats, barrels, etc) make $comparisons easy. Is this true using mtf units?
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Old Feb 15, 2005, 4:00 PM   #14
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I'm back after reading an article on Modulation Transfer Functions. What I got out of it is that you need to use this information keeping in mind what focal length and aperture you plan to do most of your shooting at. So, you can ignore my $ per unit question; not that simple.

Thanks!
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Old Feb 15, 2005, 4:05 PM   #15
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MTFs are usually captured at their worst - ie wide open
So in use the lens only get better closed down...

For zoom they give you the two extremes wide and tele (again wide opened!) - the performance of the lens again hopefully fit between theses two extremes.

FYI -
http://www.bobatkins.com/photography.../mtf/mtf1.html
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tu...ding-mtf.shtml

... and there's was a discussion just recently: http://www.stevesforums.com/forums/v...62&forum_id=65
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Old Feb 16, 2005, 3:57 PM   #16
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I"m shooting basketball shots in gyms. No flash allowed (or wanted) most at F1.8 or 2.0 using Nikon D70; lens 85mm F1.4D trying to get crisp action shot; meaning blurring of hands,etc wanted but otherwise stopped dead crisp. Sports mode found no good for basketball-- too many players in motion for automatic focus to pick up the right one: ergo, have had best results manual, S (center) focus selected and prefocused on a given spot. Meaning I've got nothing until someone/thing hits that spot. Which is OK. Trying to come with some GREAT shots; otherwise, I could use, as I did back in college, a 4x5 Speed Graphic and flash.
Something to keep in mind: depending on lighting in the gyms, a 2.8 lens (even with VR) may not allow enough light in for sports shooting. Some gyms around here I can get up to 1/400 or 1/500 using my 2.8; other gyms I need my 85 1.8 lens.
As you have discovered, forget sports mode. Use either A or M mode.
Another thing: consider trying panning instead of prefocusing, works pretty well with the tracking focus.
If you have the money for the 2.8 lens go ahead and get it, but if that stretches the budget and you need the lens just for basketball I would suggest sticking with your 85.
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Old Feb 16, 2005, 4:43 PM   #17
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Thanks for the advice I think it is dead-on! By trial and error I moved to A and C modes exclusively. Shots taken at about 5 different gyms; however, future shots will be taken at those same gyms, from virtually the same floor locations and I have shootoing records for each shot. So, I'm thinking of shoot S mode and one stop faster at each gym in hopes of taking some of the blur out. Also increased familiarity with NikonCapture Editor should improve quality. Use palette 1 a lotit's very simple, user friendly, and a great tool. Palette 2 is a total mystery. As they say, "One of these days I'm gonna read the book."
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