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Old Feb 26, 2008, 5:06 PM   #11
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Hey cool.. I pulled this one up Tamron SP AF70-200MM F/2.8 DI LD (IF) Macro is that the one you are talking about?? http://www.dcviews.com/press/Tamron-AF70-200.htm

anyone out there used this one or heard anything about it? wondering if i could classify my baby "D50" as a child for an extra 300.00 rebate?

nawwww probably not :roll:
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Old Feb 26, 2008, 5:36 PM   #12
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*RAISING HAND* ERRRR Jim...

If while I am doing my lessons on learning to shoot my camera with a lens... I mean errr.. i mean shoot using my lens with a camera .. or ... well you know what i mean... where do I post a question to ask if im confused about some knowledge or big words .. im kinda not sure what it means.... I mean I really play dumb in here ..but Im not that dumb.. well I aint never measured how dumb I am but... Im sure there's dumber folks ... somewhere..

ohhh anyway.. is there a dummy forum in steves forums? or is that a help thing... or is it a lens thing.. or is it camera thing.. i mean where should I ask those questions to learn about shooting manual?

ya'll are all welcome to follow me where ever Jim sends me.... I'll bring the cho chip cookies and ya'll bring yer cameras .. Ya can show me where I can find... infinity. They say to shoot at it... but... errr I thought it was a car... do they want me to seriously shoot at a car? :G
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Old Feb 27, 2008, 2:44 PM   #13
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Just look for tips in our Sports and Action Forum to help out with using a new lens at night games.

For starters, just put the camera in Aperture Priority Mode, set the Aperture to f/2.8 (wider aperture openings to let more light in are represented by smaller f/stop numbers), and set the ISO speed to ISO 1600 (the higher the ISO speed, the more sensitive the camera is to light, allowing faster shutter speeds for any given lighting and aperture).

I'd probably go Center Weighted with the Metering (it tends to be more predictable and less reliant on things like focus point that can be more easily fooled by uniform color).

Then, check the images during playback for proper exposure and adjust from there, using your camera's histogram to help out.

If the images are underexposed (too dark), use a +EV setting with Exposure Compensation (needle to the right of center). If the images are overexposed (too bright), use a -EV setting with Exposure Compensation to expose them darker (needle to the left of center).

If the lighting is relatively consistent, you may also want to use manual exposure with similar settings (so that the camera is not impacted by bright lights in images, brighter or darker uniform colors and more).

Then, post some photos in our Sports and Action Forum so that members like JohnG can give you some tips on things to change for better images (and composition and timing is also a big part of it).

You may want to check with your local library for books on basic photography, too. The same concepts for things like composition, lighting, exposure, and more apply to both film and digital.

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Old Feb 27, 2008, 3:21 PM   #14
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I would also mention there is a 'newbie help' forum for general questions.

The sports forum is a great place to go for sport-specific advice. But if you just have general photographic theory questions, a forum like the newbie help forum will reach a larger audience of people that can answer your questions.
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Old Feb 29, 2008, 4:27 PM   #15
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Hi Ya'll...

For the conclusion. I ordered & gota 55-200 VR Nikon with a 5yr warranty for 5yrs. I got a great deal for 199.00 ... yes!!!!

I placed it on my sick camera and took pics... after some adjusting things started working alittle better but still in Manual mode I was shooting black...but in other modes it would work ok. If I was in manual I could use a flash and it worked...

I finally pulled down a manual online and worked on it today some at school. I finally went step by step for trouble shooting...and hit on the problem.. I had adjusted the "S" to Super high... it was in the thousands (1600)... I was getting that mixed up with another mode number on the menu selection readout..thingy... anyway when I dialed that down to the proper 30 or below.. then took a picture it was fine... I rushed home to try it on my old 70-300 lens I had thought i would have to discard and .. on Manual without flash it worked..BUT... in Auto and other modes.. its locked up and won't let me snap a shot... I bet that something did die in that lens..but it aint smelling bad.. I can use it on manual if and when I wanna so thats cool... and I DO LOVE the VR on the 55-200 wahoooo ...

Thanks sooo much for the support ..tips and friendship... going to go play with my new lense... Have a wonderful day....

TGIF!!!

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Old Feb 29, 2008, 5:48 PM   #16
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learning_mode wrote:
Quote:
Details: Zoom shooting nightsports -action is important. Spending about 400 low end up to about 700 top end.
[snip]

Quote:
For the conclusion. I ordered & gota 55-200 VR Nikon with a 5yr warranty for 5yrs.
I hate to tell you this. But, the Nikkor 55-200 f/4.5-5.6 VR lens you just got is virtually worthless for this purpose (night sports) if your subjects are moving any. That's why we suggested a lens with f/2.8 available.

That Nikkor's widest available aperture is f/5.6 if you zoom in much (too dim for low light sports). A lens with f/2.8 available is exaclty 4 times as bright as a lens like that with f/5.6 available, allowing shutter speeds 4 times as fast for any given lighting and ISO speed.

Unless you plan on taking photos of the players when they're motionless, I'd suggest a different lens for night games. You'll just get a lot of motion blur from subject movement trying to use a 55-200mm lens that at night games, even at higher ISO speeds.

For daytime use, the 55-200mm should be fine.

P.S.

If you're on a tighter budget than the lenses we suggested (the latest D model of the Nikkor 80-200mm f/2.8 for around $599 used with hood and caps, or one of Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8 EX HSM starting at around $699 new, you can get an older non-D model Nikkor 80-200mm f/2.8 Autofocus lens for $400 or less if you shop around.

I'd go that route for night sports versus a lens with only f/5.6 available if you don't want blurry photos when your subjects are moving any. You'll want f/2.8 for night games, even at ISO 1600. If you zoom in much, that 55-200mm VR lens you got only lets in about 1/4 of the light a lens with f/2.8 available lets in.

keh.com has some of the non-D Nikkor 80-200mm f/2.8 AF lenses starting at under $400 now:

Nikkor 80-200mm f/2.8 ED Macro Autofocus lens at keh.com

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Old Feb 29, 2008, 8:13 PM   #17
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laffin.. ooooo yea.. I shoulda told you... Im saving for the f2.8 ... I have a wedding I am going to need this one for in the next few months...anyway.. I do a few weddings and love shooting with the dof effect... so I decided to getthe 55-200first... then when football comes .. I'll get me that f2.8 since its not for awhile I can play with this one and see if I would wanna go with a f2.8 with vr (probably dreaming but a girl does dream)down the road... I sure do like the VR ..but I can understand how that wouldn't help much with moving action at night...

I can't wait to see what the f2.8 does. its going to be sooo sweet...but I like this 55-200 just fine fer now.. I'll post a picture whenI get brave enuff... but you guys are wonderful...and Iappreciate ya sooo much..

:| smile


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Old Mar 24, 2008, 9:25 PM   #18
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hi ya'll

I just found a glossary...all those "Letters" by the lenseare confusing me ... next thing ya know I found a Nikon Glossary... Im a learning... I yam I yam


[align=left]Jim still want yer opinion when ya read my mail to u! pwease!!!!:-)[/align]


[align=left]Nikon Lens Glossary

DX = Designed for digital SLR [/align]
[align=left]D = Provides distance information [/align]
[align=left]AF = AutoFocus [/align]
[align=left]AF-S = AutoFocus with silent wave motor
[/align]
[align=left]G = G type NikkorLens [/align]

[align=left]ED = Extra-low Dispersion glass [/align]

[align=left]IF = Internal Focus [/align]

[align=left]VR = Vibration Reduction (image stabilization) [/align]

[align=left]AI-S = Automatic Index Shutter [/align]
[align=left]DC = Distortion Control [/align]

[align=left]Micro = Macro/Closeup Lens [/align]

[align=left]Posting this glossary here cause I will probably be looking for it later (short term memory thing) :? and can just do a search here and find it LOL... this can be like... my kitchen cabinet of... catch all thingy :G[/align]

[align=left]Belows: My new 55-200 VR lens.. I love it.. now Im going for a f2.8 lens next.. I shot this in P mode.... it was snowing that day.. imagine snow in E. Tx .. just dont happen usually. I was terrified to get off "auto" ... some hits and misses on shooting but the lense is A+ ..... just a loose nut behind the camera is the only problem ... honest [/align]



[align=left][/align]
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