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Old Sep 6, 2008, 6:53 PM   #1
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Hello! I have a question about an older 2x teleconverter for Nikon. Is there any way to use it with the Nikon D40 and the kit lens, or the 55-200mm lens? I know that I will need manual focusing, and at firstt I thought about using the camera in manual mode, but since there will be no metering through this manual teleconverter, and the above lenses don't have f stop ring, I'm thinking that this converter can not be used with my camera and lenses. Am I right, or there is some trick or so that will allow its use?

THANKS!!!
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Old Sep 7, 2008, 8:54 AM   #2
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I don't have a D40 or D60 but have tried teleconverters on my D70 then 80 then 300. The auto-focus in bright light is ok, not great so I end up focusing manually anyway. The meters work well on mine, But I think you could use the sunny 16 rule and get the exposure right by trial and error. So I don't think the exposure problem is insurmountable either. The problem I have with them is they are soft, real soft. I have never been happy with anything I took with the converter. Film or digital. I have a 1.4, 1.7 and a 2x. the 1.4 is the best of the lot and still not great. I only have consumer lenses so maybe that is the issue. Better lens may produce better results. If you can try it, let me know what you discover.
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Old Sep 7, 2008, 10:26 AM   #3
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Hi, ReneB3, thanks for your message. Sunny16 rule would be a solution, but how do I set the aperture if my lenses lack an aperture ring?

Thanks...
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Old Sep 7, 2008, 11:10 AM   #4
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You would set aperture via the camera body. So yes, the converter should be usable, but results will probably not be good. A 2x converter will result in a two stop loss of light, putting you at around f8 on the long end (which is where you'll be...otherwise you wouldn't need a converter), which will require higher iso's to get a usable shutter speed (you'll nedd at least 1/750 to prevent camera shake). Also, a converter will magnify any issues with the lens (CA, softness, etc) which are worst on the longest end of a telezoom.

Converters are just not a good idea with consumer grade zoom lenses. They work best with primes, although they can be useful with fast pro-level zooms.
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Old Sep 7, 2008, 11:20 AM   #5
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RJseeney, I understand perfectly what you said. At this point however I would like to use this converter until I get something better.

BUT...how do I set the aperture? Via camera settings is not feasible unless I'm doing something wrong. I select "Manual" in mode, then I can control shutter speed but not aperture. Where aperture number is supposed to apear, there is an "- - "

This converter is completely manual, so there is not any electronic communication between lens and camera body.

Thanks.
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Old Sep 8, 2008, 8:44 AM   #6
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You can't set the aperture with that converter. It should be in the f8 range with the lens wide open anyway. Just adjust your shutter speed and ISO for the proper exposure and go with that.
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Old Sep 8, 2008, 9:30 AM   #7
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With a G lens (your lenses), there is no aperture ring, so you'd need to get a converter that can "talk" to the lens.

Sometimes a "straight through" converter can work (provided it has the extra contacts needed for communication).

But, it's usually a bad idea to use a 2X converter on a lens that dim anyway, unless you'll stick to very bright light and stop down your aperture from wide open (which you apparently can't do with your existing converter).

It's already going to be at f/8 on it's long end with a 2X converter (which means you lose two stops of light, with only 1/4 the light getting through to the camera compared to using the lens without the converter).

So, if you stopped it down even more to try and offset the optical degradation you'll get from using a 2X converter, your shutter speeds may suffer significantly unless you're shooting in very bright light. For example, if you went two stops down from wide open, you'd be at f/16 on the long end of your 55-200mm, which means your shutter speeds could be down to around 1/125 second or so in relatively bright light at ISO 100, which is going to result in camera shake if you're not using a tripod. So, you'd probably need to shoot at ISO 400 to 800 in bright light to use it without blur from camera shake (or even higher if it's not very sunny out or if your subjects are in shade).

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Old Sep 8, 2008, 3:24 PM   #8
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Thanks to all who took their time to reply. Now you've made it clear for me. Thanks!
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