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Norm in Fujino Feb 12, 2008 3:04 AM

jorgen wrote:

OCD, then the contacts are iffy. Send it to olympus before you damage the contacts.
Before sending it in, a suggestion I've heard on some other forums is to gently press in the body contact pins (they're spring loaded) a couple of times; apparently new cameras sometimes have a bit of stiffness in the pins and pressing them in can help get them going. I believe this was suggested by an Olympus tech somewhere, tho can't be sure. It certainly shouldn't hurt the camera if you do it gently.

OCD Feb 12, 2008 3:44 AM

Yes, have tried all those things. I think pressing body pinsis a 'red herring' and doesn't really do anything. It is the process of removing the lens and putting it back on that brings the camera back to life, not the pressing of the pins.The problemcould still be about tolerances, but perhaps more to do with voltages than phyisical contacts. The lens going to sleep only happens on my camera after it has been switchedOFF for a few hours, once working it will carry on all day even if frequently switchedOFF andON again.

Turning the focusing ring is unlikely to damage the contacts, the focusing ring is supposed to be turned.

jorgen Feb 12, 2008 10:31 AM

Up to you, of course. My reaction was due to your use of the word "sharply".

However, as far as I recall, there has been unbelievably few problems with the contacts in all other cameras than the e-3 (apart from the holding-down-the-release button problem Steven and Mike mentioned). If I am right in this, then the e-3 is likely to have a problem with the design of the contacts.


BuddyBoy Feb 12, 2008 10:48 AM

I checked Olympus and here is what they offer for plugins. Last updated July 2006. Unfortunatly I did not see one for the E3.

Olympus RAW File Import Plug-in for Adobe Photoshop
Installation Instructions
The Olympus® RAW File Import Plug-in adds to Adobe® Photoshop® software the ability to import RAW data files (extension .orf) captured with compatible Olympus digital cameras.
After the data has been imported, the plug-in will also enable RAW file development.
About the Plug-in
There are actually three different plug-ins, and the one that is appropriate for you depends upon which operating system and which version of Adobe Photoshop software you use. You will find
the most recently updated versions of each plug-in on the Olympus America web site. Use the links below to download the version of the plug-in suited to your needs.

If you use Windows 98, Windows 98 SE, Windows Me, Windows 2000 Professional, or Windows XP, with Adobe Photoshop version 6.0 (or later) click here.

If you use Mac OS 9.1-9.2 or Mac OS X 10.1.3 (or later) with Adobe Photoshop version 6.0,click here.

If you use Mac OS 9.1-9.2 or Mac OS X 10.1.3 (or later) with Adobe Photoshop version 7.0 orAdobe Photoshop CS, click here.

System Requirements:
In addition to the operating system and Adobe Photoshop application, you will need 64MB of RAM memory and 200MB or more of hard disk space.
Compatible Models:
The Olympus RAW File Import Plug-in for Adobe Photoshop is compatible with the following
Olympus digital cameras:
C-5050 Zoom C-7070 Wide Zoom E-20 EVOLT E-500
C-5060 Wide Zoom C-8080 Wide Zoom E-20N SP-350
C-70 Zoom E-1 E-20P SP-500 UZ
C-7000 Zoom E-10 EVOLT E-300

OCD Feb 12, 2008 12:23 PM


If I am right in this, then the e-3 is likely to have a problem with the design of the contacts.

It may well be a problem with the contacts, but I wouldn't read to much into what you may read on other forums.

When you delve into it the number of actual faulty cameras is very small.The rest are taken up by inexperienced photographers, photographers who don't read the manual, and photographers with unrealistic expectations whomay never have used a DSLR before.The problems with the real faulty cameras are then artificially enlargedbecause everybody explains similar problems but in different ways, so all of a sudden there become more problems and problem cameras than really exist.

Its like the focus problems. Undoubtedly there are probably a few with a back focus problems. But thenmany people get on the bandwagonsaying that they can't focus on venetian blinds so they also have a problem. Yet hardly any cameras are happy focusing on repeating patterns, and just as the E3 manual warns of this so doesthe new Nikon D3, which goes one better and warns of focus problems on skyscrapers! All of a sudden what everybody knows about equipment is thrown out the window and they run around in a panic for nothing.

This so called problem with the pins, solved by pushing them in,is likewise a mistaken conclusioncaused byanalysing to little information (IMO). For some people it works, some it doesn't, some people find their camera goes dead after it has worked flawlessly for long periods, some people find it is dead on startup, some people find taking the lens off and on clears it, some people find taking the battery out clears it. Why would anybody therefore conclude it is the pins that are causing the communication failure? There is no common denominator, but alternatively it is very easy to just blame a few springy contacts that 'plug' the lens into the camera.

jorgen Feb 12, 2008 1:52 PM

OCD, then good luck.

Tullio Feb 17, 2008 1:46 AM

Prior to the E510 that I currently own, I had a Pentax K100D, which at one point was behaving in a similar manner as you guys are describing here. The K100 had a feature that allowed the AF lockto operate via a different button other than the shutter release button (BTW, the E510 has the same functionality - the AEL/AFL lock button can be set so that AF is performed by it rather than the shutter - set SAF Mode 3, CAF Mode 3 or MF Mode 3). In the K100 case,the problemturned out to be with the operation of the shutter release performing the AF. I had to send the camera to Pentax to get fixed.I'm not familiar with the E3 but assuming it has similar functionality as the E510, I'd suggest you set the AEL/AFL lock button to Mode 3 (whatever AF typeyou use - SAF, CAF or MF) to see if the AF works more consistently. Also, the E510 has AF assist when using ZD lenses in M mode. Try that as well if available on the E3.

What about the battery? Have you noticed if the focus problem occur with a freshly charged battery? If the camera focuses OK with afull battery but present problems once the battery is somewhat discharged, it could be that the problem is with the electrical circuit. The camera needs a lot more battery juice than the battery can provide once it starts to discharge. Going back to my old K100, it used 4xAA. I have some Sony 1500 mAh rechargeable batteries that used to work realgood on my H1 but when I tried to use them on the K100, the camera would turn ON and immediately OFF. The problem was resolved by using POWEREX and CR-V3 batteries.So, who knows, maybe there is a design flaw.

A co-worker was experiencing a similar problem with his Nikon D70 the other day. He cleaned up the contacts (camera and lens) with a cotton swab and BINGO. That did the trick. Now, his camera is old so his approachkinda made sense. With the E3 being so new and with so many people reporting focusing issues, I doubt cleaning thecontacts would do the trick.

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