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Old Nov 21, 2006, 6:31 PM   #1
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Hi Folks,

What settings would you have on your cameras if you
almost always shot JPEGs ?

I had set my camera to the following settings
- Picture Mode : NATURAL
- Saturation : -1
- Sharpness : -1

Now, the pictures I take look just fine on my computer's
LCD. But I took 8x10 prints of some of the pictures and they
seem to be lacking vibrance. They look a little dull and dark
on print.

I hardly did any PP on the images and just printed them
as it is. Should I take back the settings to the default and
take the picture mode back to Vivid in case I don't plan to
shoot RAW and not do any PP ?

Or is it something with my computer's LCD again that
the images appear fine on it but actually aren't ? :?

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Old Nov 21, 2006, 7:03 PM   #2
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Hi, I actually have mine on vivid. But coming from a Fuji background, I like strong color (except for portraits) and a little on the warm side, so I keep my white balance on cloudy, except for indoors. The rest of the setting are on default. When I use black and white (monotone) I use the color filters that are in camera.

I mostly use a touch of levels and contrast in photoshop 4.o and sometimes selective sharpening. But if I have done my job with the shoot, I don't need much PP

Donna
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Old Nov 22, 2006, 2:08 AM   #3
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to really compare your images from your screen to the prints you need really to calibrate your monitor to start with. I have noticed that when getting prints done at a proper lab the colours still vary just as they do if using print film. Maybe due to chemicals needing changing or just indivdual machine settings.

the most common problem I have noticed with prints is they often turn pinks and greens into a browinsh colour (definately time to change chemicals )

On my E-300 I run: sharpness +2
contrast -1
saturation default.

I am going to start trying -.3 to -.7 exposure comp to save the highlights as it seems to blow them quite easily.

I have found these settings to produce nice sharp pictures with vivid colour at 6x4 size. I haven't printed anything at 8x10 yet. I avoid post processing as I try to get everything right on the camera.
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Old Nov 22, 2006, 11:16 AM   #4
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the advice you just got seems pretty good
maybe you could post some reduced images
people here are always free with comments for improvement

you might mention what image editing software you have available too

Riley
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Old Nov 22, 2006, 12:04 PM   #5
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-Rriley
The pictures were posted in this forum:
http://www.stevesforums.com/forums/v...mp;forum_id=36

I have an evaluation copy of Corel PaintShop.

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Old Nov 22, 2006, 12:39 PM   #6
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ok thing 1
this PP sort of stuff is very subjective
but as it happens i have corel paint shop pro X, to my mind jasc paint shop pro 9 was much better so see if you can dig up a copy of that, it may be around on peer to peer. but in this instance i used corel like you have

first frame i lightened with hue saturation/hue map, lighten 10 and saturation +15. and used sharpness/unsharp mask with values of radius 1.5, strength 100, clip 5. be careful with unsharp mask, it can have too heavy an effect if used too liberally.
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Old Nov 22, 2006, 12:59 PM   #7
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so for frame 1, the brightness of green middleground draws the eye better, and overall is sharper, so you probably need to increase incamera sharpness considerably

one thing about camera settings that is right, always tend to underexpose

frame 2 i lightened very slightly, too much seemed to destroy the mood
and i applied the same unsharp mask. im not happy with the house behind on the hill, tho that may have made me choose a viewpoint that either blank it out with the foreground or move it to one side

i think you used the settings i would have used, F8 1/200th, so the softness is either the lens or incamera sharpening
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Old Nov 22, 2006, 1:07 PM   #8
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so having gone through this
i really like your images
and im not at all sure what i did improved them

for instance
rather than brighter, maybe a darker more moody richer sky would have been better

one thing is for certain though
sharper is always appreciated
one thing about Corel and Olympus colours
it tends to red more than Photoshop would
and this at the expence of green values

understating saturation is a good way to go
but to get more bight, you need sharp

Riley

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Old Nov 22, 2006, 2:11 PM   #9
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-Rriley

Hey Thanks Riley

Your changes have certainly improved the pictures. :|

I think I will take the camera back to the defaults and
increase the in camera sharpening.

I think on E 500 I can use My-Mode to keep the softer
settings though. In case I need them.

One more thing. You applied changes to files which were
30% of the originals. However, applying the same settings
to the originals will also give identical results right ?

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Old Nov 22, 2006, 2:34 PM   #10
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not identical
in my view at least, better
sharpening always looks better where more detail exists to be sharpened
then reductions from that also look better

in this office we always copy the originals
modify the copies as needs be
and then make reductions of the modified copies for the net
after a week or so the originals are blown away for space
Riley
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