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Old Apr 19, 2009, 7:16 PM   #1
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Looking for a bit of clarity not forthcoming in the manual (not yet anyway, it's a big manual !). If I'm asking then no doubt someone else might be unsure too.

Noise Reduction and Noise Filter.
I think I understand but I'm not 100%. NR is for dark night shots only, and NF is used in all shots (unless turned off). Is that right ?

Also I seem to be unable to turn on NR in PAS modes now, I did something somewhere that greys it out in the menu. NR is on in Auto though.






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Old Apr 19, 2009, 7:19 PM   #2
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A second question.
AEL/AFL lock button. The user manual mentions it a lot, but doesn't say much about scenarios where you'd use it. I understand it's much like AE lock on the shutter half press, but obviously it does more than just that. When would it benifit me to use it ?


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Old Apr 19, 2009, 7:55 PM   #3
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Explanation as provided by Wrotniak on his website: wrotniak.net. See customizing your E-510/E410 dslr

"Noise Filter
In the Olympus terminology Noise Filter refers to removing the random (non-static) noise from recorded images during the raw-to-RGB conversion. This is done by some kind of a filtering (averaging) algorithm, and always leads to some detail being lost in the process, even if the result may look more pleasing than the original. This should not be confused with Noise Reduction, dealing with the static noise at long exposures, and described in the next section.
For more on the two kinds of noise, refer to my Noise in Digital Cameras article.
The options available are Off, Low, Standard, and High. I am almost sure that Off does not disable the filtering entirely, just sets it to some base (lowest) value. The presets also may, and probably do, depend on the ISO setting.
While the optimum degree of noise filtering may depend on the ISO and other factors (contrast, sharpening), I have no doubt that the Standard setting is too aggressive (although it will probably please the mass market as it pleased most reviewers). You may (and probably should) do your own experimentation to arrive to the setting you find most satisfactory.
It would be nice to have this setting memorized separately for every ISO value. As this is not the case, I keep it at Off even at ISO 1600, because the difference is not so drastic and I'm not going to dig in the menu system every time I switch to a different sensor gain.
Based on my own comparative experiments, best results are provided by setting Noise Filtering to Off, or, if you are really allergic to noise, to Low. I would recommend you to choose one of these two and forget about the whole affair — changing this "on the run" will lead to unpredictable results and lots of confusion.
Index
Noise Reduction
This option turns on the low-light, static noise reduction which is done by subtracting a "dark frame" from a taken picture.
The setting can be permanently left on, as it does not block access to sequential shooting: it will be just disabled (and smartly restored when we return to the single frame mode). The noise reduction process will be actually activated only at exposures of 4 seconds and more (8 seconds at ISO 100). "
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Old Apr 19, 2009, 7:59 PM   #4
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The most complete explanation I've found to answer your question can be found on:


http://www.wrotniak.net/photo/43/e510-sett.html#LOCK

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Old Apr 19, 2009, 10:38 PM   #5
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mr.sneezy wrote:
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A second question.
AEL/AFL lock button. The user manual mentions it a lot, but doesn't say much about scenarios where you'd use it. I understand it's much like AE lock on the shutter half press, but obviously it does more than just that. When would it benifit me to use it ?
Unfortunately the manual that comes with the camera is like a manual that comes with a new car...it teaches you where the controls are but it doesn't teach you how to drive. For me the AEL/AFL button is for a photographer who knows what they want, and would know when they need it...but here's how I would use it:

In AEL mode...say the subject is unusually dark or bright that would throw off the exposure meter, I'd look at something nearby that's more in the middle in terms of exposure extremes, point the camera at that and click AEL to lock the exposure...I'd then point the camera at the subject and take the picture. Or if I want to take multiple shots at the same exposure. (note that I personally never use AEL as I would look at the scene and adjust the camera in M mode (paying attention to what the light meter said) but that only comes with experience and practice).

As for AFL that I something I use a lot, especially in studio shooting...if I'm working in low light or in the dark, I'll have the camera set to manual focus so it doesn't try to focus with every shot...with the camera on a tripod (which I don't plan to move) I'll have the lights up and press AFL to set the focus point and take a picture (to make sure it doesn't need adjusting), and then turn off the lights and do my long exposures or multiple flash exposure.

Another way I'd use AFL is if my subject is in very low light I'd focus on something that is lit up about the same distance, press AFL, and then point at the subject and shoot.

AFL also useful for sports shooting, again locking your focus to the distance where your subject would be and the camera would just keep that distance (as long as you don't change your zoom). If you want to refocus press AFL again.

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Old Apr 20, 2009, 8:22 AM   #6
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Thanks for the links and pointers guy's. This is one heck of a camera, I didn't expect so much adjustability in a so called 'entry level' dSLR. The jump from a P&S and a Bridging camera is a wide gulf...

Good thing it has a reasonable Auto mode, as my mother just bought the same camera too ! She's also jumping from a P&S.

Thankfully I still remember my 35mm SLR basics to at least take some good shots while I catch up.

More questions coming no doubt.
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Old Apr 22, 2009, 7:39 AM   #7
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New question.
Night shooting at very low shutter speeds or bulb. I'm finding the camera is much noisier than my old Fuji S6500 and harder to get a fair exposure of say stars or the night time view over the suburbs.
Anyone got a few tips on using the E-520 for this sort of shot ?

I'm also going to be doing some astro photography sometime, so tips about NR, NF and ISO for that are welcome too.

Edit: I just tried S priority for a suburban night shot and set the speed to 15 seconds with ISO Auto MAX set to 400, the camera took a better shot than I did in full manual control... Hmm, it's smarter than me ;-)
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Old Apr 22, 2009, 11:31 AM   #8
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mr.sneezy wrote:
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New question.
Night shooting at very low shutter speeds or bulb. I'm finding the camera is much noisier than my old Fuji S6500 and harder to get a fair exposure of say stars or the night time view over the suburbs.
Anyone got a few tips on using the E-520 for this sort of shot ?
Quote:
I believe this is a situation where you would want noise reduction (separate from noise filter) turned on. Both the noise filter and noise reduction are found on the first menu, one right after the other. Noise reduction takes a little longer to work, but this is oneof thesubjects for which it exists.

I'm also going to be doing some astro photography sometime, so tips about NR, NF and ISO for that are welcome too.
Quote:
same as above. Will you be using the telescope lens to record the image, attaching the camera by some sort of adaptor tube? There's a guy who posts all the time over on the Olympus DSLR forum at DPReview with the handle "Olinaz" who has done some spectacular astrophotography. You should search him out and send him an email asking for pointers. Here's one of his posts with an image of the Andromeda Galaxy..
Quote:
Edit: I just tried S priority for a suburban night shot and set the speed to 15 seconds with ISO Auto MAX set to 400, the camera took a better shot than I did in full manual control... Hmm, it's smarter than me ;-)
You might do better using aperture priority if you want to control one of the variables (aperture or shutter speed). I would guess your lens did not have the proper aperture to mate with the 15 second exposure to give a good result.
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Old Apr 22, 2009, 7:16 PM   #9
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Thanks for the link to Oly. Inspiring shots he has there. I was sort of disappointed that I didn't get 'instant results' with the E-520 like I did with my Fuji, but it's obvious that it's driver error not the camera. I guess I've fallen into the 21st century trap of wanting 'instant everything' like my kids do... :-)



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Old May 4, 2009, 6:20 AM   #10
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New question.

Doing some manual shots off a tripod here of the moon, using live view zoomed to get a sharp focus. I have an IR remote control for this camera. It triggers a shot and does 'bulb' shutter open and close, but I expected it would also allow remote manual focus too. Doesn't work for me. Anybody know if it's supposed to on this camera or other Oly's ?
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