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Old Jan 22, 2011, 7:27 AM   #11
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Greg:

STOP! Go to
http://www.americanframe.com/

You will NOT get a better frame package. I've been using them for years.

Ted
The tricky part about doing a custom frame is calculating the dimensions. AmericanFrame has a great operation. You start with a jpeg and the dimensions of the visible area (I use a quarter inch less than the total view each way). Then the web site has you build up what you want from the inner mat to the outer mat (if you want two) by entering how much mat you want visible. The web site calculates the dimensions for you (Ken would love it). Then you add the frame itself. They have a huge range of mat colors and frames (metal and wood). I did a quick look at a 30x40" with 2 mats and it was about $100 with a simple frame. The only issue is that they use plexiglass not glass (presumably because of shipping issues).

Ted
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Old Jan 22, 2011, 9:54 AM   #12
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One of my favorite parts of the framing I chose on the Eiffel Tower image is the museum quality glass. No reflections and it is UV coated. You can stand at any angle to the picture with no reflections or glare. I wonder how the plexiglass compares?
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Old Jan 22, 2011, 10:01 AM   #13
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Greg that is great. I have a 13x19 printer but have often thought about enlarging to something in the same range as yours. If your original is good at say 11x14 on your file, can they enlarge without loss of resolution? I know there is software for that application but never really looked at it.
70 bucks isn't bad if you have something you really want as an impressive wallhanger.
Eric
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Old Jan 22, 2011, 10:08 AM   #14
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Greg that is great. I have a 13x19 printer but have often thought about enlarging to something in the same range as yours. If your original is good at say 11x14 on your file, can they enlarge without loss of resolution? I know there is software for that application but never really looked at it.
70 bucks isn't bad if you have something you really want as an impressive wallhanger.
Eric


Genuine Fractals 6.0 is the photo editing package that allows enlargements up to 1000%

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Old Jan 22, 2011, 10:09 AM   #15
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One of my favorite parts of the framing I chose on the Eiffel Tower image is the museum quality glass. No reflections and it is UV coated. You can stand at any angle to the picture with no reflections or glare. I wonder how the plexiglass compares?
Plexiglass is available in a one side non-glare finish. It works quite well.

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Old Jan 22, 2011, 10:17 AM   #16
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Zig I think I had the original g fractals with my CS2 and I did print out a 3 by 4 foot picture using Poster a few years back but of course I had to use a crapload of 8.5 by 11s : ) But this makes me think that if you have a file that is real good at letter size it might make more sense to use fractals instead of enlarging in printshop, you would not have resolution loss which can happen in enlarging from letter to say 13x19
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Old Jan 22, 2011, 10:33 AM   #17
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Zig I think I had the original g fractals with my CS2 and I did print out a 3 by 4 foot picture using Poster a few years back but of course I had to use a crapload of 8.5 by 11s : ) But this makes me think that if you have a file that is real good at letter size it might make more sense to use fractals instead of enlarging in printshop, you would not have resolution loss which can happen in enlarging from letter to say 13x19
Hi Eric,

I've had very good success enlarging photographs by first running the image through Adobe's Camera RAW 6.3 and choosing the largest file size it can deliver. I then open the image in CS5 and run the Gen. Fractals plug-in. Choosing the larger file size in ACR 6.3, means that Fractals has less work to do to bring it up to the desired image size.

One point; After I've completed all the editing and enlarging in CS5, I then open the file in ACR6.3 and inspect the image for noise as well as final sharpening- if needed. That last step has made a significant difference in the final product.

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Old Jan 22, 2011, 10:51 AM   #18
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One of my favorite parts of the framing I chose on the Eiffel Tower image is the museum quality glass. No reflections and it is UV coated. You can stand at any angle to the picture with no reflections or glare. I wonder how the plexiglass compares?
I have always used the non-glare UV acrylic. My experience with non-glare glass or acrylic is that the non-glare means the surface is a very slightly matte finish which actually does reduce the detail you can see in the print a little. But you'd probably not notice that unless you were looking at a side-by-side comparison and anyway glare is much worse, so most folks prefer the matte (non-glare) finish.

I also need to note that when I checked them on a 30x40 earlier today I didn't complete the transaction and i think it said that was a bit larger (L+W) than they can do, You might take a look or call them. I really am serious that you are unlikely to find the same quality at anywhere near their prices, as long as you're willing to wait a few days for them to make it and get it to you. When you receive it all you have to do is remove one of the sides of the frame, put it all together, slide it into the frame and fasten the 4th side back in place.

If you have a smaller print to frame you could try them and see how you like the acrylic versus the glass, or see if a frame shop can show you the difference.

Ted

PS: In the past I occasionally had difficulty deciding about which wood frame to get (metal frames are more straightforward), and they've sent me as many as three small (1" wide) samples at no charge - they probably cut it from leftovers but hey - they do it and send it at no charge. Like Smugmug, the AmericanFrame folks are good people.

Last edited by tkurkowski; Jan 22, 2011 at 10:56 AM.
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Old Jan 22, 2011, 10:56 AM   #19
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One thing you run into with some labs, and Smugmug is one, is that they automatically Rez files to a set PPI beyond a certain print size, so you need to ask the lab to not mess with re-sizing before printing if you go to the trouble of doing it yourself or they wil re-size what you have already done to a different value.

I have read it before on their site, can't remember the exact size, but I think it's beyond setting like 10x15 that they rez up files to something like 150 ppi before printing. As I mentioned earlier, I did nothing other than submit my full-size file for making this print and it worked wonderfully.
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Old Jan 22, 2011, 3:13 PM   #20
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the museum glass is polarized, and it is the best, way better than acrylic. I have a painting I did a few years back and I spent some cash on that frame/glass, but it was so worth it.
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